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View Full Version : Is it necessary to clean your cues?



FearlessInc
11-26-2003, 01:13 PM
I have a Predator 3K1 w/ 314 Shaft, Lucasi Jump Cue, and a Fiberglass (Halex Titanium) and I was wondering if I could use the Q-Clean kit for all of them, where it wouldn't damage the cue but actually do what it saids?

Also, is it necessary to clean your cue or could I actually do it without buy any fancy products and just with a towel, etc or ?

Thanks

UWPoolGod
11-26-2003, 02:34 PM
I fully believe that it is necessary to clean your cues. To keep a smooth stroking shaft, makes you not feel or worry about any oily dirty dings passing through your fingers. I shot with another APA 7's cue the other night at a tourney and I don't know how he shoots with it. It was sticky with a dozen dings in it while you stroked. Terrible.

I tried the lighter fluid on my shaft the other day and did not see any difference on the white rag I was using. I know a lot of people said it works but it must be on super dirty shafts. Unless you have a lathe the shaft is going to get dirty...just depending on your cleaning routine (daily/monthly/yearly/never) will determine how quickly that happens.

JimS
11-26-2003, 03:01 PM
I use lighter fluid on mine every time I play and the t-shirt rag always comes back slightly blue. It gets the ferrule and shaft clean and leaves a very minute amount of oil on the shaft. I then use a leather burnisher . I've got the cleanest shafts you've ever seen, especially considering that the cue that is 20 yrs old and I use it every day. Not a speck on it. Love that lighter fluid. /ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Rod
11-26-2003, 03:05 PM
Q clean and such have mild abrasives in them. It will wear a shaft down in time. Don't ever use an abrasive on a fiberglass cue. I use denatured alcohol, it will remove hand oils and chalk in wood shafts. No it won't take out all the chalk but it does a fine job. I use it on my wrap, it cleans the oils and chalk. Do not get a towel real wet, just use sparingly and clean a wrap in the direction it was wrapped if you choose to do so.

Rod

UWPoolGod
11-26-2003, 03:11 PM
Lighter fluid as in Zippo fluid..or Lighter fluid for BBQ braquettes? Probably the same anyway. I used the fluid and didn't see any come off. I'll try it again tonight when I get home. Where do you buy leather for burnishing? Someone also suggested cardboard for doing that.

Cueless Joey
11-26-2003, 03:14 PM
I keep my shaft clean with Dr Z shaft pack.

Troy
11-26-2003, 03:46 PM
Lighter fluid as in fluid for a Zippo.
I asked a local shoe repair shop for a small piece of un-dyed leather. Bingo. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Troy

justbrake
11-26-2003, 04:07 PM
I bought an old adams cue the other day off ebay an A/H1 series and the owner must have puff his cigerettes on this any way to get the nicotine off! /ccboard/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

FearlessInc
11-26-2003, 06:05 PM
Wow, so maybe I shouldn't get the Q-Clean kit instead.

So far, all I got is lighter fluid for the *wood(?) I'm guessing? (For the shaft and the butt, but not the wrap)
The wrap I don't know what to use then... a lightly wet towel?

And would lighter fluid also be able to clean fiberclass shafts?
Wow, I'm surprised... of everything, I never thought I would hear lighter fluid.

SecaucusFats
11-26-2003, 06:41 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote justbrake:</font><hr> I bought an old adams cue the other day off ebay an A/H1 series and the owner must have puff his cigerettes on this any way to get the nicotine off! /ccboard/images/graemlins/crazy.gif <hr /></blockquote>

For cleaning the shaft use a little "Soft Scrub with Bleach" on a damp towel. Once you are done getting the nicotine, chalk, nose grease, etc.. off the shaft, rinse the towel out well in warm running water and wring it out. Wipe the shaft down with the rinsed cloth and dry it with paper towels using a fast burnishing motion.

To clean the butt, use a towel dipped in a little bit of dishwashing liquid in warm water. Wring the cloth out well before you proceed to wipe down the butt of the cue. Rinse the cloth out well with running water, wring it out and wipe the butt down again. Dry thoroughly with a clean soft cloth, apply a light coat of automotive 'clear coat safe' cleaner wax, and polish to a high gloss.

To clean a linen wrap I recommend "Quick Clean" pool table cloth cleaner. Spray it on a clean piece of terrycloth and then clean the wrap making sure to go with the direction of the linen wrap. (Clockwise and then counter-clockwise, not up and down.)

Fats

Steve - Detroit
11-26-2003, 07:43 PM
You will find that 95% of the things you need to keep your cues looking great can be found around the house or bought at the local hardware store. Couple things that haven't been mentioned yet: keep your hands clean, you are the source of most of the grime that will build up, and make the cleaning a routine thing, if you stay on it there won't be much to clean and you won't have to resort to extreme measures, like abrasives. Good luck with your new cues and listen to what the people on here tell you, my shafts are smooth as glass and it's all from tips I picked up here from CCB posters.

pooltchr
11-26-2003, 08:20 PM
[quote=FearlessInc
The wrap I don't know what to use then<hr /></blockquote>

Use a heavy grade paper towel (I use those Scott shop rags in a box) or a clean white cloth. Spray the rag with spray starch and clean the wrap. It not only pulls the dirt out, but gives it a nice smooth finish. I do it on the lathe, but I don't see why you couldn't do it by hand as well.

FearlessInc
11-26-2003, 08:37 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote pooltchr:</font><hr> [quote=FearlessInc
The wrap I don't know what to use then<hr /></blockquote>

Use a heavy grade paper towel (I use those Scott shop rags in a box) or a clean white cloth. Spray the rag with spray starch and clean the wrap. It not only pulls the dirt out, but gives it a nice smooth finish. I do it on the lathe, but I don't see why you couldn't do it by hand as well. <hr /></blockquote>Spray Starch? Any examples or in particular?

Troy
11-26-2003, 09:53 PM
I use Simple Green® diluted with about 2 parts water in a spray bottle and buff dry immediately followed by the lighter fluid treatment. I never use any abrasive cleaning product.

Troy
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote justbrake:</font><hr> I bought an old adams cue the other day off ebay an A/H1 series and the owner must have puff his cigerettes on this any way to get the nicotine off! /ccboard/images/graemlins/crazy.gif <hr /></blockquote>

c.holtz009
11-27-2003, 08:49 AM
What works for me is either some spray 9 diluted 50/50 with water, then a good wipe with a damp towel, and then I burnish lightly with 2000 grit sandpaper, then burnish well with leather.
Also, I've found that automotive Goo-Gone works really well. I just apply some, then leave it sit for a couple minutes, then wipe clean, and then burnish.
My cues are always clean, and ding free.