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View Full Version : Pool Cue Joints and the difference between them



bigalerickson
04-17-2002, 09:39 PM
Hi, I am new to this discussion forum, and have probably what is a bit of a "novice" question, but I am in fact a novice so it works out!

I am looking to invest in a high quality cue, and the one huge difference I see amongst them is the joint. I have seen "wood to wood" joints, quick release, "uni-lock" (i spent some time on the mcdermott web site), as well as others.

Some insite to this would be helpful.

Thanks.

bigalerickson

Cueless Joey
04-17-2002, 09:48 PM
Go to ckcues.com and check the cue building section.

bigalerickson
04-17-2002, 11:45 PM
I could not find a "building" section, I just found pics of their cues, and a link to email them... but wow, those are some beautiful cues!

04-17-2002, 11:46 PM
Do you mean high quality cue as in a "pretty" cue with lots of inlay work or a "playing cue"?

In my mind the best quality join also happens to be the cheapest. That is of course the "no" join one piece.

If your only a novice I suggest getting a one piece Dufferin. Make sure you try it out though, the quality can vary from stick to stick but when you find a good one it will be the find of your life.

I annoy all my friends greatly with my $50 1-piece duff cause they all have $800 2 piece cues that don't play as well as mine. As soon as you put a joint in a cue it degrades the hit. Keep it pure and simple.

04-17-2002, 11:55 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: Anonymous:</font><hr> I annoy all my friends greatly with my $50 1-piece duff cause they all have $800 2 piece cues that don't play as well as mine. As soon as you put a joint in a cue it degrades the hit. Keep it pure and simple. <hr></blockquote>

y'know, that's been my developing theory. the best "pure" shot will be with a one piece cue and that everything that involves cutting it down and putting a joint in it is compensation for and mitigation of the damage.

honestly, that's why my pred s/p/ makes so much sense to me. there ain't no joint. there's just a well engineered, light weight, pin that connects as much wood as possible. minimum damage.

but, on behalf of our many beloved stick-wittlers on the board, the more ivory and brontasaurus penis inlay you put in the cue, the more balls it will make.

dan..gotta admire a guy who is willing to carry a whole stick around.

TomBrooklyn
04-18-2002, 01:27 AM
I just happened to be having a converstation about this last night with AC, the owner of Park Slope Billiards. He was saying that he came across one of his own house cues that he thought was great. He marked it and kept it behind the counter for his personal use. Unfortunately, when he moved his pool hall from Manhatten to Brooklyn, he lost the cue somewhere along the line.

Has anyone ever seen a case for a one piece cue?

bigalerickson
04-18-2002, 01:30 AM
I have dufferin house cues on my table at home, but Im not terribly interested in carrying that around with me everywhere I go.

what is a pred s/p/???

stickman
04-18-2002, 01:40 AM
I saw one once, I have no idea where it came from, but if you type in "one piece cue cases" in your search engine, you'll find several. Too many to post the links here.

04-18-2002, 05:32 AM
What do you mean there is no joint in your S/P?

SPetty
04-18-2002, 07:24 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: bigalerickson:</font><hr> what is a pred s/p/??? <hr></blockquote>

A Predator brand cue in the "sneaky pete" style. See it here:

http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/cues/predator/predator_spw.htm

Pizza Bob
04-18-2002, 11:58 AM
Tom:

One piece cases are not difficult to find in the UK. Seems some snooker players already subscribe to the theory that a one-piece is best and just about anyone that makes snooker cue cases will make one to accommodate a one-piece cue. Shipping may be a bit pricey, but finding one should be the easy part. Here's a link to my friend, John Parris' website - he lists several and will ship internationally. Feel free to mention my name if you pursue this (he'll probably only charge you double &lt;g&gt;).

http://www.parris-cues.co.uk/index.html

Adios,

Pizza Bob

TonyM
04-18-2002, 12:04 PM
Yes there are cases for one piece cues available. Check the Snooker supply web sites. There are hard cases as well as soft cases available. I made a "case" for my 1 piece Snooker cue from a piece of pvc pipe with a cap on each end. I added a strap with some velcro and "voila" a 1 pc case for under $10.00!

I've also joined two cheap soft sleeve cases together to make a simple 1 piece case that offers no real prtection, but does cover the cue.

Tony-likes 1 piece cues, but not the inconvenience..

TonyM
04-18-2002, 12:17 PM
Don't get too hung-up on the different types of joinery used on 2 piece cues. Imho, it is one of the least important aspects for playability (although some will disagree, and some cuemakers claim vehemently otherwise). It is possible to get the joint wrong, but all of the decent quality productions cues made today have decent joinery.

The uni-loc pin is quite nice. As for the need for quick release? Well, I was never convinced that the screwing together of a few threads was such a hardship! Lol!

Most of the current custom cuemakers seem to have settled on a flat faced wood to wood joint (like the radial pin, or a 3/8 x 10 or some sort of variation). While the idea behind it is to provide a more direct path for the impact energy from the tip to the butt (and back again by the way, several times during the tip contact, based on the speed of sound in the cue's material). The idea is that more metal creates more reflection at the joint. In practice however, I think that this effect is somewhat overrated. But you will find players that will swear by a piloted stainless steel joint (like a Balabushka) and others that will play with nothing but a flat faced joint (like a Meucci). In reality though, I think that it matters very little to the actual game (it can only affect a portion of the feedback at best) and none to the ability to add spin to the ball (which is affected mainly by the eccentricity to the hit and the speed).

As for durability, it could be argued that a metal joint is more durable than a wooden joint, butif well cared for, a wood to wood joint can last a lifetime.

Tony
-not saying that the joint is unimportant, but that for a newbie, there are bigger fish to fry.....

bigalerickson
04-18-2002, 01:06 PM
thanks for your thoughts tom, answered my question.