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stickman
12-30-2003, 10:03 AM
I hope to order my lathe soon. Does anyone know of any good repair reference material? Is there anything special about Viking ferrules other than the propriety material? Is it just a threaded, capped ferrule? I have a friend with an old original Predator. The original ferrules were much longer than the newer style. He needs a replacement. Does anyone have a source for the older style? I'm just trying to learn as much as I can, to avoid learning the hard way. /ccboard/images/graemlins/crazy.gif TIA

Jim

BLACKHEART
12-30-2003, 12:33 PM
Viking ferrules are SOLID,with a threaded hole in the bottom. They have a threaded hole in the top of the shaft & a small screw joins the two together. Because the ferrule is solid they very seldom break. They are easy to make or Viking will sell them to you, with or without the screw attached...JER

Cueless Joey
12-30-2003, 02:18 PM
Predator's ferrule is much different.
It's thin, pressfitted and very light.
If you had to use a threaded ferrule on Predator, you will have to thread the hole in there and plug it up.
It will then become almost like a conventional shaft but with a bored hole. Warranty becomes void too.

12-30-2003, 02:40 PM

Popcorn
12-30-2003, 02:54 PM
Once you have your lathe, all you will be buying mostly are the materials and you fabricate almost everything you need, as you need it. You duplicate the parts just like the originals. Start collecting junk as well. I recently fixed an old Palmer with the Pearl like rings. I used rings off an old Viking that were an exact match looks wise.(The material may have come from the same supplier at the time) When it was done you could not tell the cue had even been worked on.

Cueless Joey
12-30-2003, 03:45 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote whitewolf:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr> Predator's ferrule is much different.
It's thin, pressfitted and very light.
If you had to use a threaded ferrule on Predator, you will have to thread the hole in there and plug it up.
It will then become almost like a conventional shaft but with a bored hole. Warranty becomes void too. <hr /></blockquote>

I thought that the pre-existing bored hole in the Predator shaft was part of the design that gives it less deflection. I agree. Why even dream of filling it up just to put a certain kind of ferrule in? /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif <hr /></blockquote>
That is correct. Retenoning the 314 would make it heavier at the front and will have more deflection than regular shaft but will have better feel and will probably last longer. Assuming the repairman doesn't use tap and tear out the wood inside the bored hole to create threads.

Troy
12-30-2003, 04:35 PM
The Predators I've worked on have a tenon. Behind the tenon is the cavity.

Also, the Meucci Black Dot is a thin-wall ferrule.

Be careful when burnishing, too much heat will start to melt the ferrule... /ccboard/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Troy
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote whitewolf:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr> Predator's ferrule is much different.
It's thin, pressfitted and very light.
If you had to use a threaded ferrule on Predator, you will have to thread the hole in there and plug it up.
It will then become almost like a conventional shaft but with a bored hole. Warranty becomes void too. <hr /></blockquote>

I thought that the pre-existing bored hole in the Predator shaft was part of the design that gives it less deflection. I agree. Why even dream of filling it up just to put a certain kind of ferrule in? /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif <hr /></blockquote>
That is correct. Retenoning the 314 would make it heavier at the front and will have more deflection than regular shaft but will have better feel and will probably last longer. Assuming the repairman doesn't use tap and tear out the wood inside the bored hole to create threads. <hr /></blockquote>

stickman
12-30-2003, 05:08 PM
Thanks to all your help.

Jim

Popcorn
12-30-2003, 06:53 PM
You did not say, what are you getting?

Pelican
12-30-2003, 08:21 PM
Hold ON!!!! Let me get this straight. The ferrule is threaded and the shaft tip is threaded and they are held together with a threaded screw. Right. I find this mind boggeling (then again, my mind boggels easily). You have a ferrule that is 3/4 to an inch long plus the thickness of the tip . In the case of and extreme use of english, say in masse', there has to be a great amount of lateral side thrust exerted on the edge of the leather tip. What keeps the wood tip of the shaft from splitting?

As you can probably tell I am not a cue maker. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

stickman
12-30-2003, 08:22 PM
I'm ordering a 7" X 10" mini metal lathe by Harbor Freight. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif I plan to modify a steady rest (ITEM 4092-0VGA) with rubber wheels. I am looking to make my collets myself from plastic materials.

almer
12-30-2003, 08:56 PM
stickman,i have the exact lathe you are buying,it does an excellent job of tips,ferrules etc,you can even do 1 piece cues.this year in Vegas BCA someone had a repair boothe using this setup,worked as well as anything else

stickman
12-30-2003, 09:00 PM
Thanks for the reply. I looked at one that Fred Agnir sent pictures of. It looked like it would do want I what to do. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif

JimS
12-30-2003, 09:31 PM
Have FUN!!! /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Popcorn
12-30-2003, 09:36 PM
You may want to consider this one (They are all about the same) it is actually a 7 x 14
http://www.homier.com/default.asp?page=categories.asp?dept=1 (Go to shop tools)

Also take a look at this site for some good comparisons as well as some reviews.
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Versions/Versions.htm

Good luck

stickman
12-30-2003, 09:54 PM
Thanks Popcorn. I haven't sent my order. I planned to order it tomorrow. The Speedway is the one I want rather than the Harbor Freight model. Thanks for the heads up. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif