View Full Version : Why do 2 tables play so differently?
I've been a "ball knocker" off and on for most of my life. I'm now 76 years old and have decided I want to try to shoot a serious game now. I play almost every day but on two different tables. In the AM I play on a 9 ft. table in an apartment complex and in the PM I play on an 8 ft. table in the basement of my home. I can shoot a pretty consistant ball. My problem is that during warm up on the 9 ft. table I can can make the three railer to two and one quarter diamonds and to the oppisite corner with 90% accuracy. I also make a few other kick shots (as described by Bob Henning in his book) with just about the same accuracy rate.
However, when I go to the 8 ft. table and try the same shot and shoot the same way, I come up just about one and one quarter diamond short on the three railer, and proportunately short on the other shots.
This is too great a distance for me to try to adjust. My basement is heated and air conditioned and I have a good dehumidifier in the warm weather. Winter or summer I seem to have the same problem.
Am I wrong in beleiving that the 8' table should play the same as the 9'?
FYI, the 8' table is only 5 years old (Brunswick) and I had Simonis cloth installed two years ago. I have even tried a new set of balls with the same results.
I'm new to the forum but I've spent many hours reading the archives so I know there are members out there who will do their best to help. Thanks a lot in advance!
04-23-2002, 06:51 AM
Different grade of simonis.
Different tension on the cloth.
Different levels of humidity.
Different lighting (causing the slate to heat)
There are a lot of reasons that two tables would play differently. You always have to adjust to the table.
an easy quick answer would accuratly be "because they are differant". there are drastically differant tables in my area..in size, lean, bumps, pockets. i'm sure many here have been beaten by casual shooters when the table was truly terrible. one has to adapt. that ability is one of the most important skills needed. for a tip, take a few moments to hit some balls slowly on an unfamiliar table..regardless of how goofy it may look. the compensations you need to make will most likely be more easy and fluid if you see and understand them. i've gotten ribbing a few times for doing this..i play in honkey tonks mostly at the moment. in fact, one particular table i play on requires only hard shots because the table is warped in several differant directions. even medium shots get a free roller coaster ride. still, i win most of the time. do a few measuring test shots and figure the table out, then adapt your aim. make sure your test shots cover the table so you get an understanding of what needs to be done. whatever you do..never, Never, blame any losses on a table, no matter what the condition.
Tables can play differently for numerous reasons. As far as how tables bank comparatively (for 1, 2, or 3 rails) - it depends on the cloth type, the age of the cloth, the cushion rubber used and the condition the cushions are in, whether the rail bolts are all torqued tightly, the cushion nose height, the humidity conditions in the room just to name a few variables. Some tables are notorious for banking short (such as the Diamond) or long. Part of being a very good player (and what makes pros and successful road players so good) is their ability to adjust their game to different table conditions very quickly. - Chris in NC
Thanks guys; I guess that answers my question. I was concerned that my table was sooo far off, but I guess that didn't surprise any of you. So I'll just have to learn to compensate as best I can. I'll probably try to play my game where I limit my banks to a greater degree. Thanks again ... Bill
Chris, I'm happy to see Diamond used as a comparison tool in any pool related subject. Also I'm in agreement that many tables I produced had rubber that was softer and a more pointed profile even though it was called a K-55 profile. These conditions allow the ball to penetrate the rubber deeper and the ball takes the path of least resistance which is to exit as straight as possible or shorten as you would call it. Since I'm played most of my pool in Ky. I've spent alot of time playing bank pool and it's my second favorite game next to one pocket thus I've been very critical with how the rubber reacts. I'm not a rubber manufacturer and had to experiment with several different types and until recently have never been satisfied. I'm now using a rubber from Artemes. I'ts not the K-66 profile rather called Intercontinental, closer to a K-55 profile which I prefer. I'll always test new cushions, but the responces I received at my last Derby City Classic tournament, which included a bank tournament with 263 participants, told me the change was positive. I hope you will have the chance to try the new rubber. All I know is I'm replacing several tables with the new rubber. I wish I would have been introduced to the rubber earlier, but once I find something I think is better I have to use it. I'll never quit trying to improve! Thanks, for the oportunity to respond...Greg/Diamond
04-27-2002, 03:34 AM
When I previewed my post I realized I failed to register properly. Sorry guess I shouldn't be up this late! I don't know if there's a way to correct the username in my previous post. If someone knows how please let me know. thanks, Greg/Diamond
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2015 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.