View Full Version : Att. Stickman

02-26-2004, 04:54 PM

I drill the threads out for the non threaded tenons. I drill them one drill size at a time up to 5/16s. I don't know if it is necessary, but suspect that it might be best. I would be curious to know how difficult it would be to drill and thread solid rod.

Here is a picture of one of the bits I use to drill ferrules. You just grind off the tip and sharpen the remaining part to an edge. The cutting is done with the front of the bit so keep it razor sharp, (all your tools should always be razor sharp). You also need to grind a relief starting about an 1/8 of an inch back, for about an inch. You can do this with a dremal tool by running the bit in a drill or lathe as you grind. It is also important that when you grind off the tip you keep the diameter. The cutting is done by just one edge and the other side acts as a guide to maintain the proper hole size. To drill the ferrule just drill a pilot hole and then bore out the to size. After you bore you will find the bit is not even warm. and you will have a nice flat bottom hole. Good luck.

02-26-2004, 05:23 PM
Was this post possibly aimed at me, in response to this one from the IvorX thread? I never saw a response, and I'd still like to find out where you get that stuff for $4 a foot. I've been paying over twice that.


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Re: IvorX ferrule [re: Popcorn]
02/23/04 04:09 PM ( Edit Reply Quote
Where do you buy the rod, and do they have tube? I've had problems in the past drilling some materials without getting hairline cracks.
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02-26-2004, 08:05 PM
Thanks Popcorn! Please send me a web address where I can buy some stock material to practice on. /ccboard/images/graemlins/wink.gif

02-27-2004, 07:48 AM
You can buy bits like that. We always called it a spur bit.

I did a quick search. This is not exactly what I had in mind but it's sort of the same concept.:


02-27-2004, 09:50 AM
Sometimes it's best to make your own tools. You can make little variations on common available tooling that better suits your needs. In the case of the bit, the one I showed has a cutting side and a rubbing side somewhat like a deep hole gun drill. It will drill a straight hole without material and heat build up. Knowing a little about tool making and tool grinding is really essential. You can spend forever looking for a tool you might be able make in no time, and maybe better for the particular job. Even for just drilling a common hole, you may need to re-sharpen a drill bit just a little different to get the cut you want depending what material you are drilling. I must have 5000 or more, (No kidding), drill bits laying around I have bought at garage sales. They always have one thing in common, the old owner had no idea how to sharpen them and they end up thrown in a box.

02-27-2004, 10:40 AM
I was curious and called this morning to check the current price, it is $4.18 per foot. with the minimum order. It goes down a little with larger orders. This is really only of value if you are going to resell it. There is a $500. minimum, (not bad) and a 7 week lead time on the order. For the guy doing cue repairs, even if you buy from Atlas, (This is their supplier) and pay $10. or $12. a foot it really doesn't matter. At $4.18 a foot, you get 11 ferrules (lose about one from cutting loss) that is about $.37 a ferrule. At $10.00 a foot, say from Atlas, that is about $.91 a ferrule. Considering you may charge $30. or $35. to do a ferrule, the difference in the cost of material is negligible to the price of the job and probably not worth the hassle buying direct from the manufacture. Here is a place that I know takes small orders.
They may have a better prices on small orders. I got some double black linen from them that was very nice. Here is the link to their ferrule material.
I have some and It seems to be like Ivorine, they may be the supplier I am not sure.