View Full Version : nickel vs dime tip shape?
03-13-2004, 01:00 PM
What determines the best shape for the tip? I'm using a willard nickel shaper, just wondering if the dime shape would get better contact with cue ball. Is it science or just personal preference.
03-13-2004, 01:35 PM
Probably 90% personal preference. Dime is much less forgiving when it comes to miscue, you really got to keep it chalked well.
03-13-2004, 02:36 PM
I use a little less than a nickel. I tend to stun the cueball alot, and would misscue like hell with a dime shape.
Doc B /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
03-13-2004, 03:36 PM
You need to answer these questions yourself. There is not really a best, experiment and see what works best for you.
03-13-2004, 07:38 PM
I use a 12mm tip and a dime radius. I love it, but you have to be precise with the cueball. I've seen times when my game was off, I would do better with a 13mm and the nickel radius. I sold my backup stick, so I best stay sharp. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
03-13-2004, 08:29 PM
Shape to a dime and let your stroke shape the rest. If your stroke style is different for your game, it'll model the tip all by itself. A famous billiard player told me this, and I quit worrying about it ever since...sid~~~leaves his tips alone after install
03-14-2004, 12:08 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Phil Capelle:</font><hr>"A nickel shaped radius works okay, but if you plan on drawing more than one tip beneath center, keep your tip shaped with the radius of a dime(Play Your Best Pool)".<hr /></blockquote>
I donno if it's true. I always use neckel shape.
03-14-2004, 06:30 AM
Bean...Thanks for the quote from Capelle. I'm struggling a lot with lengthy draw strokes, you know the ones long and straight in with the next ball back on your CB end? Just maybe I'm going to adopt a dime on purpose for a while on the home table to see if Phil has something in this tip. Besides, I shoot a lot of low english, probably another bad habit in itself...sid
03-14-2004, 06:54 AM
I put a new tip on and tried the nickel shape because someone told me it would work better on bar boxes. Could not draw or use english as well so went back to the dime. Gotta try both.
03-14-2004, 06:58 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Sid_Vicious:</font><hr> Bean...Thanks for the quote from Capelle. I'm struggling a lot with lengthy draw strokes, you know the ones long and straight in with the next ball back on your CB end? Just maybe I'm going to adopt a dime on purpose for a while on the home table to see if Phil has something in this tip. Besides, I shoot a lot of low english, probably another bad habit in itself...sid <hr /></blockquote>
the only real secret is to hit dead solid and straight. Drawing balls from end to end requires the max transfer of low ball. Mainly because you have to overcome the friction the cloth instills after such a long distance. The dime radious will definitly help. IMO That will also effect every other shot too. A lot has to do with the dia of the shaft too.
Like Jim said, 12mm and I'll add up to 12.5mm shaft. Will seem to add englishing and cueing easier. Yes, you have to hit just right. This game is all about trade offs. IMHO The tip, the radious, the joint, the taper of the shaft, the weight, you name it. You gain from one and lose other capabilities. They'll be some shots that are easier with one tip radious or taper than the other. Spin shots are the prime example. They no doubt are easier with a 12mm than with a 13mm. However, expect to transfer english easily to another shot you may hit a little off and not want that juice.
Consistancy, being the main goal to make a player is knowing what you want, need and require to do the job. They might not all be the same. Which also brings me to using low ball most of the time. That's a good thing. Most top players will tell you. The control of whitey is what we all want and low ball can get you there most of the time. Unless, your shooting with a big cb. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif Never trust whitey.(Murphys Law)
C.C.~~uses low about 70% of the time.
03-14-2004, 07:58 AM
Chris...I've always felt that I was probably trying to muscle the ball too much, or else I was moving on the stroke, being I felt a need for more power. My usual outcome is squirting whitie off to the right to a long rail, even if I make the shot successfully. Tell me, is it more important to hit extremely low on the CB, or is it best to stay more in the meat of the CB and power the stroke? Another question, is a swooping follow through best or is a stunted stroke better? I see good players punching the CB and getting great results, but I usually try to extend the follow through more on these pesky long draw strokes. Good or bad?sid
The original shape is personal preference. If you don't strike the c/b where intended it makes no difference. I start out with near a dime radius then let my style of play shape the tip. You always know if a player uses little english, especially inexperienced ones, the tip has very little radius. Their stroke is just not true enough to hit very far away from center.
03-15-2004, 05:17 AM
I myself find it much easier to aim the cue at the cloth just below the ball and when I do get to my final stroke I'll hit just above that. I'll follow-thru and if hit dead straight? Then, it'll happen. That's in my experience and I hope you'll try it if you think about it. It is extremely important not to rise your head up, during your final stroke. I don't have to tell you that though. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
It was said something about Larry Nevels draw action. I believe he uses a Everest tip. It's a bit softer than a LePro but Man, you can get the juice out of it. I tried one and it was effortless moving around the table. I've been used to hard tips for so long that, I switched it out. The problem was, I've done this 3 times and VF is around the corner. Now, I've totally lost my mind and can't figure out what the heck to stay with. /ccboard/images/graemlins/confused.gif I'm so disturbed. HAHAHAHAHA Hope I helped. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif BTW, where are you at now? Talking in tips? I believe Rod is still using the Schon tips.
I'm not CC of course, I'm better looking. ha ha ha ha
On long draw shots I aim very low and use less power with a full follow through. To aim more to the meat as you mentioned magnifies an off center hit on the o/b. Meaning the c/b doesn't react near as fast which creates a wider angle. I use that type of draw stroke when I want to clear a near by o/b and draw back a certain distance for position.
Of course we all use the pocket to create angles but sometimes we are limited.
03-15-2004, 02:33 PM
I use a dime shape because that's what Bob Meucci said to use.
And no, I would not jump off a bridge if he told me too. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
I believe Rod is still using the Schon tips.
Yes CC, I still am. They have been real consistant in the hardness range I like. That reminds me I need to order again. Thanks for the wake up call. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Hey you better decide on tips real quick. What ever you decide convince yourself it works great. Say this 1000 times, It works great! You might not convince yourself but Spike and Heide will probably change. ha ha ha ha ha
03-15-2004, 06:42 PM
I'll tell ya CC, the Moori Q left on the tall side is super for my style. I'm set for a permanent tip...sid
03-15-2004, 06:46 PM
"And no, I would not jump off a bridge if he told me too"
Sometime you have to jump off of a bridge! Oh, I guess you aren't talking about bridge jump shots...sid
03-15-2004, 07:58 PM
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, somehow I don't believe you. LOLLOLLOL
C.C.~~your too funny cycopath. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
03-15-2004, 08:07 PM
I know who you need to talk with. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif JimS.
I looked all over the seybert website and I never once seen nothing about the Schon tips. ??????????
There not listed, you have to call. I forget who I talked to but Rip said to call him. If I order in the near future I'll find out.
03-17-2004, 08:11 AM
Regardless of the diameter of the shaft, I've found that rounding the tip to just slightly flatter than a nickel's shape allows for more of the cue tip to remain in contact with the cue ball during the stroke than when I've used a more rounded tip. The hardness of the tip factors into this equation as well. The softer the tip, the more round the tip could be to have the same effect. My goal in shaping a cue tip has been to make it so it helps my cue tip remain in contact with the cue ball longer rather than shorter during my stroke, thereby (at least in theory) maximizing control over the cue ball and minimizing the risk of miscuing. It's just a minor extention of the stroke the cue rather than poke the cue concept.
John in NH
03-17-2004, 09:04 AM
One of the drawbacks of using lowball (No pun intended) is that on cross table shots low ball will cause unnecessary english on the object ball which also causes the ball to spin out of the pocket I try to compensate this problem by /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gifextending my bridge for long shots and going more to a center ball hit on the object ball this seems to work well for me, especially if I am faced with a tight angle to the pocket such as rail shots, unless of course it's necessary to draw back to the bottom rail, in that case I would try what you suggested.
To answer the original post I use a 13mm shaft and prefer a dime radius for most of the reasons that have already been mentioned, however! I have used a 12.5mm shaft in the past and the nickel shape seemed to work best, trial and error is the only way to tell whats best for you.
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