View Full Version : BreakRak Users Questions
04-09-2004, 08:17 AM
I recently setup the BreakRak on my home table intending on concentrating on using it instead of poking in balls. Well, I have two questions for anyone who uses this device, one is "How tight do you get the bungee thingies?" I currently have mine just tight enough to allow the head ball to come back to the spot, but not tight enough to not leave a slight sag in the bungee cords after the break. The instructions suggested that too tight was a bad thing, is this appropriate?
Second, I tend to break from the same spot, back by the end rail, bridging on the short rail. I am noticing that after only a few days of popping break shots that the veneer is getting lots scratches and the cloth is going to definitely get intensely worn. I would assume that the side breaks, long rail bridged breaks, would also scuff the top of any rail when worked with a constant fever such as the BreakRak. Is this something you simply have to live with? I thought about breaking off of a pad of extra simonas but I don't want to lose then genuine environment, which IMO is lost with protection pads. I'd rather not move around on my break shot either, but maybe that wrong. Thoughts?
04-09-2004, 08:46 AM
I would guess that, since using the BreakRAK over and over simulates a massive amount of breaks, that it would probably something you had to live with unless you did use the protective pad. I don't think using the pad would alter the real-ness of the break, since what you are actually trying to accomplish is controlling the cue ball after the break. Try it both ways for awhile and see if you can tell any difference is my only suggetion. Let me know the results. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif
04-09-2004, 09:38 AM
A pad will only solve part of the problem. If you look at any pool table in the pool room you can see where people break from. There is a path worn to the rack and there is also a heavily worn line in front of where the cue ball is from the cue tip hitting the cloth. I think all you can do is move around and spread out the wear.
04-09-2004, 09:38 AM
Sid, I didnt want to use a break pad either but when I got my table set up I started using one and you wouldnt believe the difference. I dont think it changes anything on the break, exept keeping me from getting a hole in the cloth where I break from /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
As far as the break-rack I dont know, I havent been able to get one yet.
04-09-2004, 10:23 AM
Hello there Sid. Use of the BreakRAK does simulate lots of Break Shots, because that's what it's intended use is... REPETITION.
The cords only need to be stretched about 1-1 1/2 inches. Over stretching the cords gives too much restriction to the movement of the BreakRAK.
If the rail cap veneer is getting scratched up, that could mean one of two things or both. Since the angle of the cue is on a slight downward incline, the Cue shouldn't come in contact with the rail cap unless (1) the cushion cloth is a bit low to the rail cap or (2) the player is dropping their elbow in the stroke.
Set the cue on it's intended line of stroke & see if the Cue Stick is rubbing the rail cap. That will help rule out one possibility.
Practicing the Break Shot stroke all across the headstring is intended to give the Player a "comfortable feeling" when breaking from anywhere. If you are playing an opponent, that breaks in a different area than you do, & he or she scores & you don't... maybe a change is in order.
04-09-2004, 11:08 AM
Glad that question was answered. I probably would have asked you the same thing when mine comes in. Is everything still going good for ya? Talk to you later.
Doug from VA
04-09-2004, 12:02 PM
I've been moving further out onto the table and bridging on the cloth instead of the rail, and the rail rubbing is ok now. I'll try the pad, sounds like it can't hurt that much.
I was all over the place with the CB that Sunday I got home, and still very inconsistent on Monday, so I took a lot of speed off of my stroke and gradually added it back in as the CB began to behave. I really think I'll gain from this thing, today I'm impressing myself a little, but won't know until I rack a standard set of 9-ball. Thanks CeeBee, and everyone else too. All good advice...sid
04-10-2004, 04:03 PM
CeeBee...Is this appropriate following the initial orientation and first breaking stroke? I just don't want to drill myself with too slack(or tight) of a BreakRak.
04-10-2004, 05:11 PM
I can't see your picture. Yahoo responds: The File You Are Looking For Is Inaccessible. Please sign in and try again or check with the owner of the file.
I signed in and still couldn't see it. Anything special I need to do? Can anyone else see it?
When I saw ceebee setting up a BreakRak, he initially pulled the rack over about 3/4 of an inch off the spot, then when hooking up the other side, pulled it to the spot. That, I believe, is the inch and a half stretch he's talking about, 3/4 inch on each side.
04-10-2004, 05:36 PM
Sid, I can't see the pictures either. Susan's description is correct. Set the Nose Ball about 1 1/2 inch to one side, hook up that side clip & then pull the Nose ball onto the Spot & hook the remaining clip.
You can setup the BreakRAK using a stretch of 1-3 inches & not really tell the difference. I emphasize the 1-1/2 dimension because I have customers that have stretched the cords over the rails & hooked them together under the Pool Table... (they didn't read the instructions... ever)
Be sure to put some tape over the Spot.
It really doesn't matter if the Nose Ball is even on the SPOT. You are learning to hit the Cue Ball correctly, so there is no unwanted spin. You are also learning to hit a Target accurately, from anywhere in the Kitchen. Break Shot Action comes with an accurate hit. Speed of the Break Shot comes from developed Rhythm & Tempo.
In a very short time, your MUSCLE MEMORY will be developed & the results will be rewarding.
04-10-2004, 06:25 PM
I believe you have covered all the bases with your answers for Sid. I would just like to add that Landon and I would not be without a BreakRak..We use it in our practice routine regularly. One week ago Landon ran 4 racks on a Valley table. No nines on the break and no combos. On one break he made 5 balls. A solid four rack run. This would not have happened without practicing with the BreakRak. He squats the cueball often with 20+ mile an hour breaks. I wish I had had the BreakRak years ago and the current info that is available on breaking. And yes, my nine year old is considered a favorite to out break me. But, I generally out manage him in that department.
04-11-2004, 07:00 AM
Sorry, I forgot to share that folder after creating it. It should fly now. Thanks for the review...sid
04-11-2004, 07:12 AM
CeeBee...That is a method I'll try next time. My concern with my current setup is in the area of how much returned tension is necessary, or if it is an issue at all. Mine returns respectably close to the spot, and I am currently using it as the seen in picture(now shared to the public so everyone can see it.) I have a bit of time invested in this particular setup, so let me know if it's wrong by any definition and I'll start over, otherwise I'll continue to drill as-is. Thanks...sid
04-11-2004, 07:57 AM
Sid, looking at the picture, it seems that you don't have any tension at all in the bungee cords. It looks as though your BOWSTRING is somewhat relaxed or the Cords would be more perpendicular to the side rails.
In actuality, the Bungee Cords do not have to be attached, but the Player looses the automatic reset function. Just a little bit of tension on the Bungee Cords (app'x 1 1/2 total stretch across the table or 3/4 inc-1 inch per side) will reset the BreakRAK.
What is that material under the Lead Ball in your BreakRAK setup? Does it have a slick or non slick finish?
Very Soon a Video (describing Setup & Use) will be made & all of my new Customers will get a copy & the present customers will be offered one.
A new book on the Break Shot is soon to be released.
04-11-2004, 08:39 AM
That material is milar(sp?) CeeBee. So are you saying that this will work like this since you stated that the bungees didn't even need being attached in theory? I get reset to the spot ok, bit if there is any chance that side twist upon the break is altered with the seemingly slack tension, I'll change it. I actually wonder though if the lesser the tension while maintaining a good reset to the spot, may just be the best of all the two "tension worlds." You designed it, so I'll follow your advice either way...sid
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