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View Full Version : Removing a ferrule?



Anonamus
05-05-2004, 12:18 PM
With all this talk about Ivorine-X and Ivory ferrules it got me wondering how a ferrule is removed. Is it turned down on a lathe or is it heated up to lossen the glue and then unscrewed? I have no idea and at the risk of sounding like an idiot I was hoping someone could enlighten me.

Also, are most ferrules threaded? If so, is there a standard size thread that everyone uses? Is a non-threaded ferrule the sign of cheap construction?

stickman
05-05-2004, 01:35 PM
I turn mine down. It might be possible to heat it on a unthreaded ferrule and remove it. I'd think it would be hard to do on a threaded ferrule. I think most higher end cues are threaded, they vary. The threads are 5/16x18. On an unthreaded tenon, I just drill out the ferrule threads to 5/16". I suppose I could thread the tenon if I wanted to.

stickman
05-05-2004, 02:49 PM
Even if you are able to remove the old ferrule with heat, you still need a lathe to turn down the new ferrule. They are oversized.

Troy
05-05-2004, 07:57 PM
I agree. I too take the old ferrule off using the lathe. The only difference I have with Stickman is that I thread the tenon if I'm installing a threaded ferrule.

Troy
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote stickman:</font><hr> I turn mine down. It might be possible to heat it on a unthreaded ferrule and remove it. I'd think it would be hard to do on a threaded ferrule. I think most higher end cues are threaded, they vary. The threads are 5/16x18. On an unthreaded tenon, I just drill out the ferrule threads to 5/16". I suppose I could thread the tenon if I wanted to. <hr /></blockquote>

Cueless Joey
05-05-2004, 11:46 PM
Most ferrules are threaded and capped.
Cuemakers who don't thread their ferrules are plain lazy in my books ( some claim the sleeved ferrules hit better, I can't disagree more).
Ivor-X has a 5/16 18 thread with 3/16 cap and about .200" long thread relief/step tenon at the bottom ( so the tenon becomes a little stronger at the bottom in case you do the Color of Money bending the shaft trick /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif)
Ferrules are removed by heat for the most part. Either by spinning the shaft and pressuring it with a thick leather or heat gun. Stick you can't use BLOWTORCH, ok. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Hey Stick, since you got robbed. PM me your addy.
I have Ivor-X blank samples for you. You get to practice boring and threading on these. /ccboard/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Chris Cass
05-05-2004, 11:57 PM
Your a good man Joey.

Regards,

C.C.~~a red dot Joey fan. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Cueless Joey
05-06-2004, 12:22 AM
Thanks Chris.
No biggie.
I was part of the creation of Ivor-X.
I machined some of the samples given at last year's Billiards Expo in Vegas.
Btw, it is the best playing cue ferrule around bar none.
"Sooner or later, it will have to be an Ivor-X. ":p
Kidding aside, it is the nuts.

stickman
05-06-2004, 12:50 AM
Thanks, friend! I turned one off with leather. It slipped and had a slight epoxy gap at the end. I put it back on and repositioned it. It was unthreaded. I need to take the time to learn to thread with my lathe, but haven't yet. The cheap ferrules (fiber) will melt if you put much heat on them. I just go ahead and turn them down.

I just got a new break stick tonight. It was what looked like a brand new Sneaky pete. $30.00! I'll probably put a new triangle tip on it, althought the tip looks new. I'll shorten it down and leave it somewhat flat.

Chris Cass
05-06-2004, 12:51 AM
I went to that site and clicked on the Ivory x name and I seen what they had to say. I thought it sounded interesting for many who don't want to deal with real Ivory. I really liked what they had to say about it. Ivory does look the best when it's all shined. It seems to stay clean and that's a major plus for Ivory alone. Sure the hit is softer but after using many ferrules I can truely say I like the hits of Ivory, Malimine, Ageis and lastly Fiber and in this order. I do prefer capped ferrules.

I feel ideally a ferrule should hit like Ivory, clean up well like Ivory, shine when buffed like Ivory and cost like Ivory X. Oh, the only downside to Ivory in my opinion is the changes in temperature qualities. Also, the sanding part. It will sand much faster if you change tips a lot. That's not good. Even though I mentioned a softer hit. I didn't want that to sound like it's a bad thing. I like the transfer of feeling and control better with Ivory. My tip man likes to hit the ferrule when the glue gets on it after each tip and before you know it. Bamm, you need a new ferrule.

I was tickled when they said the elephants would be happy. LOL That made me laugh.

I believe in being fruggle but cheap isn't me in the least. Your very kind to do something like that and it shouldn't go unrecognized.

Regards,

C.C.~~ /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

stickman
05-06-2004, 01:13 AM
I love the Ivor-X, althougth, I 've never used Ivory. They polish great, resist scratches, stay clean, have a great feel, not nearly the expense of Ivory, and FL is happy that we don't kill elephants for them. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif Joey's a great guy. What else can you say? Kerry told me they were hard to bore and thread, but I like a challenge. /ccboard/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Chris Cass
05-06-2004, 01:23 AM
If anyone can walk away a winner from any challenge it would be you bud. Please let us know what your opinion is when you get to work with one Jim.

Regards,

C.C.

Anonamus
05-06-2004, 05:47 AM
Thanks for your replies. One last question, though.

When you're installing a new ferrule what type of glue do you prefer?

Cueless Joey
05-06-2004, 06:41 AM
3M 5-minute epoxy is good. It can easily be melted by heat if the ferrule needs replacing.
Yellow glue is the cheapest kind used.
Tightbond is popular also.

BLACKHEART
05-06-2004, 07:33 AM
/ccboard/images/graemlins/confused.gif Shame on you Joey. Calling me &amp; lots of other Qmakers "LAZY", just because we disagree with your methods. I've been making Qs since "86 &amp; tried every ferrule material &amp; every glue &amp; every method of attaching them. I think the threaded ferrules don't play any better than non-threaded ferrules. Furthermore, I for one, don't like capped ferrules(exept Ivory). It has nothing to do with being lazy...I just don't like um. As for the 5/16-18 thread,I feel that it's too fine of a thread, to be useing on wood &amp; harder to work with, when replaceing a ferrule. To answer the gentelmans question about glue, I've done as many as 2000 repairs a year &amp; use 5 minute epoxy for Ivory ferrules. ALL others are glued using super glue gel. In all of that time, I've never had one returned, because the glue failed. And now if you'll excuse me I'M GOING GOLFING...JER

Cueless Joey
05-06-2004, 07:41 AM
My bad Jer.
I've seen two cuemakers who press fit ferrules ( they hammer them in).
One used a threaded melamine but did not thread the tenon.
Worse he used yellow glue. His ferrules are failing but he hasn't changed.
5/16 18 threds on ferrules aren't too bad if you grind the threads on the tenon. If you use a die, it will tear out the wood.
My apologies again. http://www.dzcues.com/images/tenon.jpg
This image shows a tenon rightly done by DZ ( DZcues.com) before he takes a thread or two at the top for relief.

Cueless Joey
05-06-2004, 07:52 AM
Two tenons in comparison ( from dzcues.com also). DZ tenons (http://www.dzcues.com/images/tenons%2005.jpg)
Btw, Ivor-X ferrules are capped for durability and consistency of the hit.
Ivor-X does not change playability due to temperature like ivory does. It's not prone to breaking either.

Anonamus
05-06-2004, 08:31 AM
Wow Cueless Joey! Good stuff.

stickman
05-06-2004, 09:40 AM
I use Loctite Quick Set 5 minute epoxy. I let it set for about 2 hours before I turn.

Popcorn
05-06-2004, 10:44 AM
I agree with you for the capped ferrules. I have always drilled the ferrule all the way through. I have always been of the opinion that the tip should rest on the end grain of the shaft. At one time I would drill a step hole through the ferrule and thread the first ľ of an inch, but I don't do that any more. To be honest it was for nothing more then to speed up the work. I could just put on the epoxy and screw on the ferrule. As far as lazy goes, I don't know what he is talking about. I drop my thread mill in the QC tool post and it takes my a minute to cut in the threads. I don't do it because it weakens the tenon and is not at all necessary. Now I bore one size hole all the way through and I don't always use the same size hole. I want a ferrule wall of around .065 thick, as it relates to what will be the finished size of the shaft, so I bore it accordingly. I am not that interested in a ferrule as to how it plays since I use the ferrule only as a sleeve and I doubt it effects the play of the shaft. When I replace a ferrules I always do it in the exact way as the original maker did. I don't take someone's shaft and change anything, If it is threaded, that is what I do. I don't want to change anything about how the shaft feels if I can help it since the guy is used to that shaft. Although I have not had any ferrules break, even if a few did, I would consider it a trade off to the play of the cue. Ferrules are expendable just as tips are. The play of the cue is what matters most. This is just my opinion and would never profess to tell someone how to do anything.

Popcorn
05-06-2004, 11:05 AM
If you want to thread a ferrule, why thread it all the way down, why not just the tip of the tenon? Are the threads meant to hold on the ferrule more secure, if so the same will be accomplished with less threading and less weakening of the tenon. The threading I believe provides a false impression on strength. I don't think this is a matter of opinion, it can be easily tested. The threaded ferrule does not exert any continuos downward pressure on the shoulder of the shaft once the epoxy has set up, it is just sitting there as ferrules do. It is not like torquing on an engine head, it's an illusion. That ferrule is no stronger then the weakest part of the assembly which it the root diameter of the tenon, that has now been even farther reduced by the threading..

Cueless Joey
05-06-2004, 12:33 PM
You don't need to thread all the way down Pop.
You leave around .200 long unthreaded and about .050 bigger than 5/16.
The ferrules we see in the shop that need replacing are almost 100% the unthreaded kind.
Imo press fitted ferrules will become loose after a while.
Threaded ones do not. The tenons do not really break unless really abused.
But to each his own I guess.
P.s.
Do you grind your threads Pop or you use a threading tool ?
Thanks.

Popcorn
05-06-2004, 01:38 PM
I don't thread my ferrules, but when I do thread, I use a thread mill. If I were to thread though, it would be no more the 25% of the length of the tenon and no cap.

Pelican
05-06-2004, 02:10 PM
OK Anonamus, anybody can tell you the hard way to remove one. I'm a gonna tell ya the easy way.

First remove the shaft from the butt and carefully lean the butt against the south wall of the room. It must be the south wall. Now take a potholder and pad the jaws of a vise. Clamp the shaft in the vise with approximately 6" of the tip protruding. Put a pair of safety goggles on. Now take a minumum 13 amp circular saw with a combination blade and ..........................................

Cueless Joey
05-06-2004, 06:26 PM
K, thanks.
Do you cap your ivory ferrule?

Popcorn
05-06-2004, 06:57 PM
I don't use ivory ferrules for my own shafts. If I do a repair, I just do it in the way that it was previously made, if it was capped and threaded that is what I make it. I don't modify peoples shafts for my own convenience. Regardless what ferrule you use or how you install it, it will not improve the play of a shaft beyond how the shaft would feel with no ferrule at all. At best, it will not mess up the feel, at worst it will make the cue feel terrible. Talk about the various ferrules and materials is to me all somewhat moot. It is all in an attempt to get back what you already had before you cut down the end of the shaft. It makes more sense to use the most minimal ferrule possible in the first place. I have a very good reason why I believe what I believe regarding the tip on the end grain of the shaft and the feel and play it gives. I would be interested in hearing specifically why others feel gluing a chunk of plastic between the tip and shaft is better.

Troy
05-06-2004, 09:30 PM
The number one purpose of the ferrule is to protect the end of the shaft. For that, a 1/4" ferrule is sufficient, maybe even 1/8". Anything more is purely aesthetic and subject to personal preference.

Troy
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Popcorn:</font><hr> I don't use ivory ferrules for my own shafts. If I do a repair, I just do it in the way that it was previously made, if it was capped and threaded that is what I make it. I don't modify peoples shafts for my own convenience. Regardless what ferrule you use or how you install it, it will not improve the play of a shaft beyond how the shaft would feel with no ferrule at all. At best, it will not mess up the feel, at worst it will make the cue feel terrible. Talk about the various ferrules and materials is to me all somewhat moot. It is all in an attempt to get back what you already had before you cut down the end of the shaft. It makes more sense to use the most minimal ferrule possible in the first place. I have a very good reason why I believe what I believe regarding the tip on the end grain of the shaft and the feel and play it gives. I would be interested in hearing specifically why others feel gluing a chunk of plastic between the tip and shaft is better. <hr /></blockquote>

BLACKHEART
05-06-2004, 10:54 PM
/ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gifYou must have studied under Ray Shuler. He told me, on several occations that a ferrule needent be more than 3/8". Since the begining, my Black Heart's have had 1 1/4" ferrules &amp; that's one of the things that set them apart. The combination of shaft taper,ferrule material,ferrule length &amp; tip are(in my opinion), the main components that make up "THE HIT" of a Q...JER

BLACKHEART
05-06-2004, 11:21 PM
/ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gifOne more thing about these threaded ferrules &amp; I'm done. If you do many repairs, you'll find out how many Qmakers botch things up &amp; make it very hard for the repairman, to do a good job on his cuastomers Q. For example tenons under the ferrule that are not in the center of the shaft or threaded ferrules. There are basically 2 ways,that I know of, to remove a threaded ferrule. One is to heat up the ferrule to the pont that the glue softens &amp; you can grab the ferrule with plyers &amp; simply unscrew it. OR cut the ferrule off using the lathe &amp; then RETHREADING the tenon that's left. Both of these CAN be trouble. While unscrewing the ferrule, a lot of the wooden threads will remain adheared to the ferrule, leaving, only 1/2 of the original threads. Then you squirt a gob of glue on the threads &amp;thred on the ferrule. Then where is the great holding power or the surface conection that is supposed to be inhearent to this type of ferrule? When you rethread a threaded tenon, you often end up with a crumgling bunch of wood chips. Then you have to cut off the ferrule,drill a hole in the end of the Q,glue a new tenon into the hole &amp; start all over again. All of which cost you time &amp; the customer wants to know why a SIMPLE ferrule job costs him extra....I DON'T LIKE THREADED FERRULES &amp; I don't see any advantages...JER

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 08:46 AM
I'm staying out of this one... /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Troy
05-07-2004, 08:50 AM
I'll take that as a compliment /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif Jer since I think Ray makes fine cues. Actually, my mentor was a local SF Bay area guy (now living in Reno NV) who learned from Jim "Rocket Scientist" Buss. And my 4-point Jim Buss cue with the 1" ferrule is the best hitting cue I own.

Troy
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote BLACKHEART:</font><hr> /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gifYou must have studied under Ray Shuler. He told me, on several occations that a ferrule needent be more than 3/8". Since the begining, my Black Heart's have had 1 1/4" ferrules &amp; that's one of the things that set them apart. The combination of shaft taper,ferrule material,ferrule length &amp; tip are(in my opinion), the main components that make up "THE HIT" of a Q...JER <hr /></blockquote>

Popcorn
05-07-2004, 08:55 AM
Quote
"I'm staying out of this one"

Why, if you have an opinion and some reason for feeling that way, voice it. People on this board may disagree and debate, but they don't argue. We are here to exchange ideas.

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 09:03 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Popcorn:</font><hr> Quote
"I'm staying out of this one"

Why, if you have an opinion and some reason for feeling that way, voice it. People on this board may disagree but they don't argue. We are here to exchange ideas. <hr /></blockquote>

They don't argue??? We must be on two different boards /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif,

Well here is my opinion. I don't use the 5/16-18 threaded or the 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8 sleeved style. I use my own thread, and the best way to describe it is, a thin(er) walled threaded and capped ferrule. The cap gets you a more consistent hit/feel/playability. Threads get you strength. Not having a cap IMHO gives a problem with the tip install, think about it, you have two different materials, a plastic (or thermoset) and wood, both expand and contract differently. It just makes more since to glue the tip to a solid surface, than two different ones. I like threaded and capped, that is about all I can say, Iíve tried different ferrules both ways (all on the same shaft by the way lol) And I like my way. And I don't like long ferrules, and to me a long ferrule is any ferrule longer than mine /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif, which are usually 7/8", IMO they hit a little more solid. So shorter tennon, thicker tennon = a better hit, IMHO.

Thanks,

Jon
Example (http://www.jtcues.com/picture37)
Ok, is that better Pop??? /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 09:07 AM
Pop, what do you think of using 3/8 stud to join the forearm and the handle and tapping the cavity for it?
Don't hold back.
Thanks.

stickman
05-07-2004, 09:30 AM
I'm certainly with you here. I'd much rather replace a non-threaded ferrule. So far, I haven't seen a failure of a ferrule due to it being non-threaded.

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 09:41 AM
Jon, you got sukkered into revealing your secret. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Hey, I like that configuration.

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 09:47 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr> Jon, you got sukkered into revealing your secret. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Hey, I like that configuration.
<hr /></blockquote>

What secret??? if i said what the thread was, you would be right... I've put on ferrules, with a difference of one thread per inch, and there was a slight difference. It would take awhile to figure out what i am going to use next /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. Try that [censored] with a damn tennon threader /ccboard/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
What about it do you like...

Thanks,

Jon

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 09:51 AM
Oh, it's just like Blud's joint thread. People call it a 3/8-11.5, but it's really 11/32"-11.someoddnumber... It's just what a man likes i guess...

Thanks,

Jon

Popcorn
05-07-2004, 10:11 AM
There are several ways to attach the handle to the forearm and as long as they are done carefully should work fine. I will show you what I do . I turn a tenon from both the forearm and the handle and attach them with a phenolic 1 ľ sleeve. I use a 3/8 x 10 screw to hold it together. This is all done very precision using relief holes to relieve the pressure in assembling. In the picture, the top is the forearm. You can also see the handle is not maple, I prefer to use purple heart for the handle under wrap. It has a little more natural weight and is very stable. My experience has been very good with cues staying straight. I see cues years later that are still perfect. My method for assembly is as you can see minimal, I always feel less is better. I came up with this myself years ago but have since learned others also do it the same way. I kind of reinvented the wheel. Is the way I do it the best? I can't say, only what works for me but it has proven to be very good. The only drawback is for a cue without a wrap I have a little different design I use buy basically the same principal. I did test on this assembly by the way and I could stand on the cue with out it breaking, (Not a good thing to do, it does bend the cue). I have seen cues that were just dropped on the floor break, that had the more common assembly of a tenon up into the forearm. I don't care for that assembly, especially with the spliced points. That is a lot of glue lines to depend on staying right. The first time I bored out a forearm with spliced points I knew I did not want to do it that way.

http://popcorn23.mypicgallery.com/img/?/machineguy/psleeve_large.jpg

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 10:30 AM
I just like the way it looks. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
It looks like Wes Hunter's ACME joint pin.
I like the unthreaed top so you can have the ferrule thicker up there. And the thread relief at the bottom.
You'll have a solid base.
Nice threads. You didn't use Porper's aluminuum die did you? /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
J/k , I know it was done the right way.
I'm glad those Ivor-X blanks I sent are on good hands.

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 10:37 AM
Pop, I saw a Jim Buss cue under the wrap and it looked like that too.
Thanks.
I agree with those pointed cues that are just held really by glue.

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 12:30 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr> I just like the way it looks. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
It looks like Wes Hunter's ACME joint pin.
I like the unthreaed top so you can have the ferrule thicker up there. And the thread relief at the bottom.
You'll have a solid base.
Nice threads. You didn't use Porper's aluminuum die did you? /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
J/k , I know it was done the right way.
I'm glad those Ivor-X blanks I sent are on good hands. <hr /></blockquote>

You are damn right they are in good hands lol. Oh and it polished pretty good with that "other stuff", but i still might get some of that stuff you use... It's SHINY! Wow. And as far as "secrets" I could care less /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/wink.gif. Look at Pechauer's site lol. I'm planning on doing a construction test soon, and if it works the way i think it will... I'll challenge others to do the same /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif. I might tell you but i will not broadcast it until i know it works lol. How is that yellow glue, implex and meucci taper bar package you got holding up???

thanks,

Jon

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 01:00 PM
No, keep your construction methods proprietary.
No need to broadcast it. There will always be people buying solid-hitting cues.
I have some chopped off Meucci and Pred ferrules from Z's shop. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I have two pieces of Meucci ferrules/tips. They are different than the old ones. They are capped but not threaded.
The taper machine is still in the works. Cue Sensei Eddie Prewitt's still designing them. I heard he took an order from a North Carolinan gentleman. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Btw, we can pick Pop's brain here. He uses a Gorton panto .

almer
05-07-2004, 02:08 PM
How does it play better,is it a softer hit,harder hit,does it change the feel of shaft,what tips did you try.thanks

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 02:18 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr> No, keep your construction methods proprietary.
No need to broadcast it. There will always be people buying solid-hitting cues.
I have some chopped off Meucci and Pred ferrules from Z's shop. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I have two pieces of Meucci ferrules/tips. They are different than the old ones. They are capped but not threaded.
The taper machine is still in the works. Cue Sensei Eddie Prewitt's still designing them. I heard he took an order from a North Carolinan gentleman. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Btw, we can pick Pop's brain here. He uses a Gorton panto . <hr /></blockquote>

Oh i don't plan on broadcasting construction methods, just a test /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif. I wonder what tolerance Moochi holds on those ferrules??? Probably anything between .125 and .250 relief lol /ccboard/images/graemlins/blush.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/smirk.gif. When i put on a ferrule it has anywhere from 0.005-0.010" relief... Takes a little longer, but it's worth it (seeing that i make the ferrules and all.)
Have you ever seen a McDermott ferrule's innards lol?? The top third or so is threaded with the rest solid, if i had a big fancy CNC to cut my tennons and ferrules, i might do that to /ccboard/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif. Just keep on hammerin' Joey, just keep on hammerin'...

If prewitt has an order for me, it must be Christmas...

Thanks,

Jon

Keep on Keepin' on...

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 02:19 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote almer:</font><hr> How does it play better,is it a softer hit,harder hit,does it change the feel of shaft,what tips did you try.thanks <hr /></blockquote>

I'm going to try one out tonight. I'll post my opinions.

Thanks,

Jon

P.S. I'm starting with a triangle tip, and if i like it, i'll switch it to a moori (medium)

stickman
05-07-2004, 02:28 PM
I was somewhat disappointed. It was a firm hit, but I thought it would be better. I am replacing the fiber ferrule with a thermoset capped one and try a sumo wb next. If that doesn't work, I may try one of the black Raven tips. I was using a house stick that broke well with a LePro tip on it./ccboard/images/graemlins/confused.gif I just thought for $30 I could have my mine break cue and not use a house cue. We'll figure something out.

stickman
05-07-2004, 02:54 PM
I thought you were talking about my new break cue (sneaky pete). If you're talking about the Ivor-X ferrules, my playing cue hits just a little harder. I've used several tips, and decided on Talisman WB Med. The ferrules polish GREAT, they resist chalk, and don't scratch easily. (I hesitate to say they don't scratch. Invariably someone would prove me wrong, but they have to work on it.) /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 02:57 PM
For breaking?
Melamine ( glass phenolic) and hard black water buffalo should do it.

stickman
05-07-2004, 03:04 PM
Thanks, Joey. I was just using what I have on hand. I need to order it. I know where to get the melamine ferrule. What brand tip?

Jim

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 03:29 PM
WB black.
Cheap and really hard.

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 03:40 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr>black.
Cheap and really hard. <hr /></blockquote>

I don't want to know... and please don't tell me...

thanks,

Jon

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 03:46 PM
[ QUOTE ]
I don't want to know... and please don't tell me...

thanks,

Jon <hr /></blockquote>
You got me.
I don't have a comeback for that one. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Baarabim!

stickman
05-07-2004, 04:33 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr> WB black.
Cheap and really hard. <hr /></blockquote>

Joey, I never heard of that brand. I'm either stupid, or I must be missing something.

At least I have an excuse. I can claim it was due to the stroke. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Cueless Joey
05-07-2004, 04:37 PM
http://www.cuestik.com/Products.asp?GroupID=100
Here ya go.
You know one if you see one up close.
It stinks. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

stickman
05-07-2004, 04:43 PM
Thanks, Joey. I've ordered from them before, but never their tips.

Jim

Big_Jon
05-07-2004, 05:05 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cueless Joey:</font><hr> &lt;/font&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;font class="small"&gt;Quote:&lt;/font&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;
I don't want to know... and please don't tell me...

thanks,

Jon <hr /></blockquote>
You got me.
I don't have a comeback for that one. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Baarabim! <hr /></blockquote>

LOL, Does this forum have a "don't ask, don't tell" policy??? To each, their own...

Thanks,

Jon LOL