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MinnesotaSlim
02-19-2002, 05:19 PM
I have been leary about using steel wool. Does anyone know of a good remidy to use?

02-19-2002, 05:52 PM
Carnauba wax. Wipe in on and it cleans out all of the blue chalk, buff with a cloth and then buff with a dry paper towel until the shaft feels hot to the touch. Works like a charm. When your playing and the shaft starts to feel grimy, then take a damp paper towel, wipe clean then take a dry paper towel and buff again. Slick as new. I clean my shafts a couple of times a week and they're as slick as can be.

02-19-2002, 06:09 PM
for small 'dents' just wet the dent, wait 15 min and burnish with leather.

if the whole shaft is feeling like it's 'rough' go ahead and wet the whole thing down( once in a while, a little dish soap and bleach can help), wait a few minutes, rub with dry towell till hot and dry and burning as above. no, your shaft is not going to warp if you wet down the outside layers of wood for a few minutes. using steel wool, sandpaper or anything like that will reduce the diamater of the shaft pretty quickly.

and, as said before, frequent wiping with damp then dry towel and burnishing will keep it like new.

dan..and maybe some car wax last.

cheesemouse
02-19-2002, 06:19 PM
M/Slim,
I know this will bring out some squeals from the purists but if, and only if your shaft is very dirty, oily and has lots of small nicks do this: take a clean cotton towel and fold it up into a shape like a large mail envolope then soak it in clean water and ring it out. Now place it in the microwave and heat it till it is steaming. Put the steaming towel in another dry towel so you don't burn your hands now quickly rub down your shaft and don't stop in any spot for long and don't do the tip area as you could melt the glue under the ferrule...sounds scary, huh. This will raise the grain of the wood some and rid you of those little nicks but also pull the oil and dirt out too.In about one hour sand the shaft down with #600 and your shaft will be as smooth as a newborns bottom /ccboard/images/icons/wink.gif. It's only scarey the first time; I wouldn't do this very often and don't ever do it to a Preditor shaft. Now I will cover my ears for the yelling /ccboard/images/icons/frown.gif

02-19-2002, 06:31 PM
I agree with Houstondan. When cleaning the shaft you need to use some type of liquid, this will also raise the grain and pop out any small dents. I like his idea of using leather to burnish and smooth. I also use 1500 grade sand paper. That's what's used to polish mirror so you won't be taking any size off the shaft. Don't do this very often but when necessary. Then use Carnauba wax often and make sure it's as pure as possible and the type used for wood, not car wax carnauba that contains petroleum by products.

02-19-2002, 07:18 PM
way, way, overkill in my opinion. i think that is way more heat than is needed and may, in fact, be asking for trouble.

really, the moisture will get it done all by itself without the heat. yes, lotsa heat is faster but is also more dangerous.

dan...very hard on shafts.

cheesemouse
02-19-2002, 07:33 PM
houstondan,
/ccboard/images/icons/shocked.gifThat's why I qualified my post. I said "only if". The first time I did a shaft you can rest assured it was on a shaft I never use anymore and didn't care if it was damaged. The result sold me . Maybe it is the lazy mans way but quess what? I'm that lazy guy /ccboard/images/icons/laugh.gif

JimS
02-19-2002, 07:54 PM
I use Q-Smooth if, and I mean IF, any abrasive at all is needed. If it just needs cleaning I'll go one of a couple of ways.

If the shaft is very very dirty, turned green/blue from dirt and chalk dust, then I use Q-Clean but it has bleach in it so I ONLY use it on extremely dirty shafts. The Q-Clean does an excellent job of deep cleaning and I've cleaned shafts that were absolutely green with it.

If it's just surface dirt I'll use Shark Oil (from Muellers www.poolndarts.com (http://www.poolndarts.com) ) or Buddy Halls Shaft Cleaner/Polish. Muellers also carries the Q-Clean and Q-Smooth abrasive papers...which have very little abrasive.

I read a post from TonyM a couple months ago stating that he uses lighter fluid...just regular ole cigarette lighter fluid. I tried it and it's great! It cleans all the chalk dust off and leaves a very shiny surface.

If the shaft has dings/dents I put 1 drop of water on the dent, let it soak in and then use a drinking glass to rub the dent out. Just rub the dent and the area around the dent with the side of the drinking glass and it helps even out the dent getting rid of it almost completely, unless it's such a crater that it needs to be worked on by a cue maker and a lathe.

I burnish the shaft with a piece of leather every time I use it and this is, my experience has shown, is the secret to keeping the shaft perfect.

Regards, JimS

Tom_In_Cincy
02-20-2002, 01:00 PM
I first get out the small dings with a damp cloth on the spot of the ding. The dinged area will swell slightly and then I can apply 600 grit sand paper to level it to the original shaft curvature. Then I apply 1000 grit, 1500 grit and finally 2000 grit. The shaft is like a mirror and very smooth to the touch.
I also wipe done my shaft with a paper napkin after every use. This removes the blue chalk from the shaft that got there during play.

MinnesotaSlim
02-20-2002, 01:29 PM
I will give a few of those ideas a try, now can anyone tell me how to understand women......?

Doctor_D
02-20-2002, 07:55 PM
One of the benefits of being a woman is never allowing a man to figure us out. It keeps life interesting!

Dr. D.

Tom_In_Cincy
02-20-2002, 09:09 PM
True... so very true..

02-20-2002, 10:28 PM
and one of the benefits of being a man is not really, really caring. it makes life possible.

dan...confused as to why he is currently unattached.