View Full Version : cue straightness
06-23-2004, 02:46 PM
Hi Everyone! What is the best way to tell if the shaft is straight and true?
roll it on a flat surface...
06-23-2004, 03:15 PM
Flat surface should work...
I've seen Dany Hewitt roll his shaft with the tip on the table and the end of the shaft on the rail then vice versa. I wondered why and after trying it I realised that it it helps spotting a curve in the shaft. I also believe it reduces the chance of rolling over a debris on the table like chalk chips...
06-23-2004, 03:32 PM
There's a lot of people here that will tell you flat surface and they think it's the best, but in my humble opinion you should always roll it on the bed of the cloth.
Your shaft doesn't have to be warped, if you see light as your rolling it, looking at the bottom view. It could very well be, it's worn or has been sanded down a bit. It also can be refered to as the taper. That too might show some light on the bottom.
I think the thing that most concerns me, is the view from the standing position. Looking down on the shaft as you roll it. The first 8" of the shaft from the tip, must be straight. If it appears to roll straight from there then, the shaft should be concidered straight and won't effect your shots. I would concider that to be straight. It's nice to have both but many cues come with a 13mm tip and a taper that is meant to roll flat. JMHO It could just mean that the taper needs straightening out and you could have a very straight shaft to begin with.
C.C.~~not disagreeing with my friends here.
06-23-2004, 03:43 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Chris Cass:</font><hr> The first 8" of the shaft from the tip, must be straight. If it appears to roll straight from there then, the shaft should be concidered straight and won't effect your shots. <hr /></blockquote>
Amazing, someone here actually thinks a bit the way I do! /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif Though I would extend the length a few inches.
Worst warp is when the ferule itself is obviously at an angle.
06-23-2004, 05:00 PM
I like to roll it on the table put together, and taken apart. Here is hat I am looking for:
Butt, no light under the butt and the pin rolls straight, too.
Shaft, rolls straight with little or no light. If there is light, it should be the same amount as the shaft rolls. The tip should not come off the table surface ever.
Together, see shaft.
If the pin moves, have it recentered or replaced. If both parts are OK, but the cue is not good when put together, but the pin is OK then the face of one part of the joint is off, or there is dirt or something on the face. Have it refaced.
I also agree with CC, if the "bow" is behind the stroking part of the shaft it may not affect much, but this is such a mental game and we are such anal retentives, you may not be able to live with it even knowing it is OK. In that case, send it to me or CC and go get a new one. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif
06-23-2004, 06:11 PM
If it rolls straight on a table, it is straight enough for me to use /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Cuetec says this about their shafts:
[ QUOTE ]
By the way, due to the revolutionary hi-tech Cuetec manufacturing process, the proper way to determine the straightness of a Cuetec Cue is to “sight” the cue from the butt to the tip. If you roll the cue on a table you may notice a slight wobble. This is normal due to the nature of the fiberglass cladding process over the wood. The cue is straight.<hr /></blockquote>
06-23-2004, 09:43 PM
I check shafts and butts the same way. I screw the cue together and sight down it from the butt end and slowly turn it. You can clearly see if anything is out of alignment. If everything turns straight, end of check - everything is straight enough.
If something is wobbling, I take the cue apart and set the shaft and/or handle on something really flat, like a glass or granite counter, and slowly turn the shaft, sighting the gap from the between the cue and the counter. If the gap remains constant, then the piece is straight.
Let's say both pieces are straight, but the cue appears to wobble when assembled and sighted, sight down it and see if the wobble is at the joint. Take a few pieces of paper, unscrew and shim the joint where the curve appears to be. If you can get everything straight with shims, the joint needs to be refaced - no biggie.
I've bought cues at bargain prices that appeared to be warped, when all they needed was a $15 joint refacing.
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