View Full Version : how is a cue brocken down

06-29-2004, 10:01 AM
hi all
ok i have posted a few time know and everyone has been really help full and not to mean to a new guy thanks. i have yet again come up with some totally usless questions. how is a pool cue broken down? like what are all diffirent parts of the cue? how is each one importen to the next? if you leave out say the farrel how will this efect the hit of the cue? what size tips are best for play a pool game with and what types are could for braking with?does it help to have a one peice brake cue or is it batter to get a cheap two peice?
im sure i will come up with some more later but right now it time for luanch /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

06-29-2004, 10:25 AM
maybe cueless joey can direct you to the x-rays of cues on azbilliards. Those were interesting to look at.

06-29-2004, 11:48 AM
Basically you have...
-The rubber bumper on the end of the cue. This protects the wood when you set it on the floor.

-The butt of the cue. This is where you grip the cue. It can be different thicknesses and can have the weight distributed differently to change the balance point of the cue. Some cues have a weight bolt which can be changed to change the weight of the cue. You can have a wrap on the butt which may give players a better grip when stroking the cue.

-The joint of the cue. You can have wood to wood, phenolic to phenolic, metal to metal, or a combination. Metal to metal is said to provide a harder hit. This is because metal would not have much "give" where as wood would have a little "give". I have a metal to metal joint on my break cue since I want every bit of force to be applied to the cue ball should I choose to really slam the stick.

-The joint screw. This can be a metal screw going into a wood "screw hole" or a metal screw going into a metal "screw hole". I would think that metal to metal would last longer and might provide more support. Also you can have a "quick release" screw which allows you to screw/unscrew your stick faster. Some better cue manufacturers may let you choose between 5 or more different joint/screw options.

-The shaft. This can be made of different wood and sometimes is made from many different pieces of wood which are glued together. In theory, the glued (or laminated) wood would be stronger or might not warp. Also the shaft can be different weights toward the tip. This is said to change the amount of deflection when hitting the cue ball. And you can get a European taper which is cone shaped from the tip back or a pro taper which has the same size shaft from the tip back a certain distance (like 11 inches). Different shafts will "bend" and "vibrate" differently after hitting the cue ball. If you look at high speed videos of a cue stick hitting a cue ball, you will notice that the vibration occurs when the tip is no longer in contact with the cue ball. (I therefore don't care about vibration except for the feel of the hit.)

-The ferrule. If you pounded a wood stick on a hard surface, the end of the stick would become deformed or split. The ferrule prevents this from happening. Other than that, different ferrules may clean up easier (remove chalk), may be a different weight (may help with cue ball deflection), or may cost more or less depending on the material used. Ivory is quite expensive for example. Some ferrules are screwed and glued onto the end of the shaft. This is said to hold better than a ferrule without threads on the inside.

-The size of the end of the shaft and tip. You can get different sizes 9mm (snooker) to 13mm tips are most common. Smaller tips may draw a ball back better, but may not work well for harder shots. I'm sure there is someone out there who can play great with any size of tip, but quite a few players have tried different sizes and prefer a specific size.

-The tip. Tips can be made of all sorts of different materials like leather, pig skin, plastic, or rubber. Some tips are layered. This is several pieces of leather glued together. Tips can be hard, medium or soft. Soft may make balls draw back better, but it tends to compress or change shape with a hard hit. Many players prefer a medium or hard tip. The quality of the tip and the material used is very important. The tip needs to retain chalk well, even after a lot of use. And the tip should maintain its shape and not mushroom, or delaminate. Poorer quality tips will not hold chalk well after use or may fall apart.

-The shape of the tip. Many players use either a nickel or dime radius on their tips and a quarter shape for breaking sticks. Different tip shapes will affect play, so it is important to always maintain the same shape on your tip. This is also good for when the tip needs replacement. If you have maintained the shape of the tip to a consistant radius, you can shape the new tip to the same radius and the new tip should not play any differently. It is best to own a good shaping tool which will give your tip a consistant shape.

For the one piece breaking cue question, I'm sure a one piece would be better so far as a harder hit would be concerned, but not easy to carry around. I have learned that a very hard hit when breaking is not always the best break. My two piece breaking stick with a metal to metal joint, a metal to metal "screw hole", and a hard break/jump tip will hit quite hard if necessary.

Cueless Joey
06-29-2004, 12:19 PM
ER cue x-ray (http://azbilliards.com/vbulletin/upload/attachment.php?attachmentid=2102&stc=1)
Here's an x-ray of a superbly constructed Edwin Reyes cue.
The forearm is threaded on to the handle ( in this one, I can see two threaded tenons/bolts). The handle is joined at the bottom butt sleeve with just threaded wood tenon so you can't really see much down there ( white stuff are the hard materials ).
The butt is really made of three pieces. Forearm, handle and the sleeve. How they are joined makes up for the hit and quality of the cue. Edwin prefers not to use metals in joining his forearm to the handle. He also prefers to bolt in to the handle not the forearm. He believes he gets a better hit this way and more durable.
The collars are threaded on too.
The shaft really has only two or three parts. Joint collar, ferrule/tip and insert for the pin if needed.
The taper can be argued all day. The taper has to do a lot on the hit of the cue. Ferrule material and tip material contribute a ton too. The tip is the only material hitting the cueball.

06-29-2004, 12:32 PM
thanks for all info man that was a great post. it was exactly what i was looking for. i got more questions that maybe you can help me out with. what is the taper not sure what is meant by that? i use a med tip right now is there a really big differents in a med and hard tip? i have heard alot of talk about hard tips on the forum and i have been think about changing mine out but have been a little iffy about it because i was not sure if it would make any real difference. and if it does what is a good brand to look for.

06-29-2004, 01:19 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote phelix:</font><hr> ...what is the taper. <hr /></blockquote>

If the cue has a 13 mm ferrule, the shaft at the ferrule is 13 mm.

From that point the diameter will either begin becoming gradually larger until it reaches the joint or it will stay cylindrical for several inches before it begins becoming larger.

I think my McDermott has about a 12" cylindrical section before it begins tapering.

The theory is, with a shaft with a consistent diameter it is easier to shoot accurately because the shaft is not "expanding" as you shoot.

06-29-2004, 06:36 PM
The theory is, with a shaft with a consistent diameter it is easier to shoot accurately because the shaft is not "expanding" as you shoot.
<hr /></blockquote>

eh?? went by me /ccboard/images/graemlins/confused.gif

06-29-2004, 08:23 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Rod:</font><hr> &lt;/font&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&lt;font class="small"&gt;Quote:&lt;/font&gt;&lt;hr /&gt;
The theory is, with a shaft with a consistent diameter it is easier to shoot accurately because the shaft is not "expanding" as you shoot.
<hr /></blockquote>

eh?? went by me /ccboard/images/graemlins/confused.gif <hr /></blockquote>

I think what he means is that the diameter of the shaft remains constant as the cue moves forward through your bridge hand.

06-29-2004, 08:28 PM
OH, I see, well I don't think much of that theory. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

06-29-2004, 08:38 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote phelix:</font><hr> how is a pool cue broken down? <hr /></blockquote>

I gennally jest unscrews mine in the middle /ccboard/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

06-30-2004, 06:16 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Rod:</font><hr> OH, I see, well I don't think much of that theory. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif <hr /></blockquote>


Hey, I'm just the messenger /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Actually I don't know whether to put any stock in it or not. I had a Lucasi that had a somewhat conical taper and a McDermott with a straight taper. I think I could tell the difference (and preferred the McD) but it could have been "just my imagination....runnin' away with me.... "

Chris Cass
06-30-2004, 06:30 AM
Hi Wally,

It does stop your bridge hand from openning up but then again, it's too late by that time. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif


C.C.~~needs a conicle wallet. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

06-30-2004, 07:22 AM
Anything that hapens after the cue ball leaves the tip will not have any effect on the shot. On the other hand, everything that happens after the cue ball leaves the tip is the result of how well or how poorly you did the things necessary prior to the shot.

06-30-2004, 10:29 AM
&gt;what is the taper not sure what is meant by that?

The size around of the shaft from the tip to about 11 inches back can be the same size or increase in size as you go back further from the tip. If you are using a "closed bridge" (finger wrapped around shaft) and the shaft was the same size to 11 inches back, it would more easily slide back and forth through your fingers.

&gt;i use a med tip right now is there a really
&gt; big differents in a med and hard tip?

Not too much difference. The harder tip will keep its shape better. You may need to re-shape a medium tip more often. A soft tip may need re-shaping several times during a tournament! One hard shot could "squish" in the end of the tip.

When you change tip brands, types, or shapes, expect time to get used to the new tip. I prefer a Moori III M tip with a dime shape (I have a dime shaping tool). Note that a dime shape will not work on a 13mm shaft. If you have a 13mm shaft, use nickel a shape.

06-30-2004, 11:14 AM

You can tell the difference, I'm sure. Really it's what you like. If you feel more comfortable with straight opposed to conical then go for it. To me there just a bit to weak so I'm definetely a conical kind of guy. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Weaker shafts just feel wimpy to me, without going into detail.

There is one thing, it gets larger gradually per say. Mine only changes .002 the first two inches from the ferrule. At 10" it's .030 larger. I miked it. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif It of course gets fatter but it's not like my fingers fly open. lol Besides it keeps the bridge tight. I'm use to it and comforable to me. I'll pass on the theory though. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif It's some guy or guys that thinks it's better because it's comfortable to them. lol


Fred Agnir
06-30-2004, 05:51 PM