combination jump/break cue questions

I was looking at some of the combination jump/break cues. The ones where the rear halfs break down into 2 pieces making the cues a total of 3 pieces.
Do these rear two pieces fit into most standard cue cases?
That seems to be the only or main difference in the rear part of the cues. All or at least most seem to use the same shaft as on their regular cues except for the tip. These combo cues use a hard or very hard tip.
Is that the only difference on the front half of the cue?
If so basically all these cues are is a regular cue with a hard or very hard tip. And the rear half breaks down into 2 pieces so you can use a shorter cue for the jump shots.

And I read Predator had to also use a stronger, thicker ferrule on their break cue to withstand the pressure of the breaks. And supposedly it doesn't affect Predator's low deflection at all. If that is true I don't see why Predator doesn't just use a stronger, thicker ferrule on their regular cues.

Are there any other diffenences I should know about? If not I could probably just put a very hard tip on my old Viking to use as a break cue.

[Rod]

Eddie, the jump/break cues fit in any case just like your regular cue. I doubt your into jumping balls at this point, so if I was you I'd use the old cue as a break cue and save your money. Unless you need a tip I wouldn't invest in one.
The tip that's on there will work fine, it's probably old enough that it's hard anyway.

Hi Eddie, I don't know if your thinking about jumping balls or not, but like Rod, I think it would be a waste at this point. I played in a 9-Ball tournament last night and I used the Jump shot twice, but I was kicking 3 and 4 times in some games. I heard a Pro say that it doesn't cost you a game to put one ball on the table and KICK it all over the table, after awhile you'll start seeing the angles from the cushions. IMHO if you decide to practice kicking, do all your kick shots with the same speed and tip location so you'll know where your natuarl kick will go before you alter speed/tip location. Good Luck, Terry

[JimS]

Hi Eddie,

Rod has it all over me regarding experience and skill and I'd take his advice very seriously regarding anything he says about pool. In fact his suggestion is exactly what I did after I got my first really good cue. I just took my old playing cue and used it as a break cue and then after a while I added a Talisman x-hard tip. It works fine and saves my good cue the wear and tear of breaking. I've noticed that the old cue, after breaking with it for a year or so, has gotten many dings in the shaft but my play cue has gotten none!

Eddie,
The Predator BK is a totally different animal than their regular cues. Anyone who has ever tried to play with one ( I was once forced to, don't ask) can attest to that. The ferrule used on the BK would alter a regular cues performance. If anyone is truly concerned about re-tipping a Predator, my advice would be, tell your repairman NOT to put it on a lathe for the burnish work ( which should be the only part of the process that affects the ferrule in the way you all seem worried about) That, or have the tip done by hand. I've owned Predators for seven years now, had 'em re-tipped on a lathe, on a drill ( I didn't go back THERE twice) by hand, by me, and NEVER had a problem. No reputable repair shop would hurt that ferrule. And since I now do my own, I can add that no half wit guessing her way through can either!