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View Full Version : a different way to aim

vapoolplayer
01-08-2005, 01:30 PM
ok, a few people have asked me to post the way i aim, since i've mentioned a little about it in other threads. its different from about 90 percent of all other systems i've dealt with. i learned it from a good local player. i've never seen it in a book or video. although someone told me that they saw something like it in an out of print video years ago. i'm expecting several people to post about how its idiotic, doesn't work, stupid, etc, etc. i don't know exactly why it works, and haven't really tried to figure it out. i just know that it works for me, and it may work for you. give it a try and let me know what you think. positive or negative, as your input may lead me to discover different things about this great game.

the following is copied from another forum where i posted this before. i didn't feel like rewriting it as it is very lengthly. i hope i explained it well enough for you to understand. it is hard to explain in writing, so if you have ANY questions send me a private message or post the question here.

thanks (keep reading for the system)

alrighty lets see if i can make this as short as possible. you must be able to imagine lines on the table for this one. most people who play pool can do this i'm sure, but if you're one of those people who find that difficult, this isn't for you. also this requires a VERY straight stroke as any glancing off the cue ball will alter the course of the object ball.

first take your cue and look at your ferrule. pretend it is a square. you have five different part on your ferrule you can use to aim with. the two edges, the center line, and the two quarters.

ok, now take and ojbet ball and place it on the table. draw an imaginary line from the center of the intended pocket through the object ball. that is the "contact" point and is the only spot on the object ball that you need worry about. NOTE: make sure you draw the line all the way through the object ball. just like any other way of aiming you are focusing on the part of the object ball farthest away from the target pocket.

now, set up a straight in shot. naturally for this shot all you need to do is line the center of your ferrule to the line you drew through the object ball. this works for shots that are straight in and anything slightly off straight. i.e. very small degree cuts.

ok now set up a medium difficulty cut. i haven't gotten on a table with a protractor but it seems this next one works for 30 to 60 degree cuts. now if you are cutting the ball to the LEFT, all you have to do is line the LEFT quarter of your ferrule up with the line on the object ball. if you are cutting to the RIGHT line the RIGHT quarter of the ferrule up with the line on the object ball. don't ask me why, becuase i don't know right now, but it automatically compensates the cut.

now, set up a maximum difficulty cut 60-90. for cutting to the RIGHT line up the RIGHT edge of the ferrule to your object ball line. for cutting to the LEFT line up the LEFT edge of the ferrule to the object ball line.
agian, it compensates.

now for english

there are only two spots on the ferrule to use for english, the two edges.

NOTE: this is very important. this ONLY works when using NO MORE than ONE tip of sidespin. which is usually plenty to get around a 9 ft table.

this works on any cut angle. depending on how good your eyes are and how straight your stroke is, you may have to adjust a little for very thin cuts using sidespin.

ok, set up any cut.

say you are cutting the ball to the left and you want to use right hand spin.
you would line up your shot with ONE tip of side spin and use the LEFT edge of your ferrule to the object ball to pocket line.

now take the same shot. and you want to use inside english (left hand spin) line up the shot using ONE tip of sidespin. aim the RIGHT edge of your ferrule to the object ball to pocket line.

i know this is imposssible but try this on a table a few times before you start your naysaying. (previous statement only applicable to the few people on here who like to bash everything that isn't the way they use it.......LOL)

i have tried this method using a 13 mm tip and my usual 12.4 mm tip and it works for both. i'm not sure if a higher deflection shaft will make a difference, but i wouldn't think so since its only using no more than a tip of sidespin.

i learned this system from a local player, and my ball making percentage went through the roof. it does take some practice like anything else. it took me a week to get fully used to it, incorporating it into my practice routine which lasts about 5-6 hours a day. after a little bit of practice you'll be able to swing down on the line just like you were before.

is anyone else using this or a variation of this? i've never read about it in any book or seen it on any video. (although i haven't seen or read everything)

ok, i think i covered everything, so let me know if this works for you if you try it or if it seems i explained something incorrectly.

thanks

Qtec
01-08-2005, 01:44 PM
Beware what local players tell you.

They can only tell you how THEY do it.
Often they really dont know what they are really doing at all.

Beware.

Qtec

vapoolplayer
01-08-2005, 01:51 PM
i didn't believe it at first. but after trying it, it works very well, i have been using this system for some time now.

DavidMorris
01-08-2005, 01:56 PM
Okay, I'll bite: when you line up the quarter or the side of the ferrule, are you pivoting the butt of the cue around a stationary bridge, or are you sliding the bridge laterally left/right and keeping the cue in a straight line?

If you're pivoting, this sounds like the BHE method of aiming with english.

I'm interested in what Bob &amp; Fred think of this, or if they've heard of it.

The thing is, there are many different aiming systems that all essentially work towards making it easier for you to visualize and execute the proper path of the cueball. They work from some people and not for others. But that has to be tempered with the realization that physics rule on the table, and everything will have a physical explanation of why/how it works, i.e. method A and method B might sound completely different, but if executed to where the intended result is the same, then the physical interaction between tip-CB-OB must be identical (assuming one system doesn't use swerve or squirt while the other doesn't). That's why I'd like to hear Bob and Fred's input.

I will go and play around with this though. I'm always interested in trying out various "systems" in case I find a better one that what I'm used to, so I like to keep an open mind.

vapoolplayer
01-08-2005, 02:06 PM
you are using parallel english with this system. not BHE. when first starting, move the bridge. after you become proficient at this system, you will be able to step into it, and swing down on the right line just like you would with other parallel systems.

thanks

vapoolplayer
01-08-2005, 02:14 PM
and i'm sure that there is an explanation for this system. i just have not ventured to define it. i have used other systems to aim, then looked down my cue and seen that it lines up the same way as my system. so i probably should have explained this as another way to "visualize". as thats all it is. with any system for aiming, the cue ball and object ball still contact at the same place. therefore all "aiming systems" are just a way to make visualizing the shot easier. the english part is very powerful for me, as alot of people try to adjust for the amount of throw and such, but with this way of "visualizing" it gives and exact way to be sure of the aim (with one tip of sidespin that is, if you use more than that then you must compensate. as no system is perfect)

thanks

Alfie
01-08-2005, 02:21 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote vapoolplayer:</font><hr> ok now set up a medium difficulty cut. i haven't gotten on a table with a protractor but it seems this next one works for 30 to 60 degree cuts. now if you are cutting the ball to the LEFT, all you have to do is line the LEFT quarter of your ferrule up with the line on the object ball. if you are cutting to the RIGHT line the RIGHT quarter of the ferrule up with the line on the object ball. don't ask me why, becuase i don't know right now, but it automatically compensates the cut. [etc] <hr /></blockquote>Thank you for the response. However, I am not understanding it. Are you using back hand english? Back hand english to the quarter points to "relieve the hit" (compensate for throw)?

vapoolplayer
01-08-2005, 02:53 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Alfie:</font><hr> <hr /></blockquote>Thank you for the response. However, I am not understanding it. Are you using back hand english? Back hand english to the quarter points to "relieve the hit" (compensate for throw)? <hr /></blockquote>

when using the quarter of the ferrule, you are not using english. that is used with a center ball hit (follow, stun, draw) and used for medium difficulty cuts. you just make sure that the quarter line of your ferrule is lined up with the contact point on the object ball. if you do this with your backhand, you will glance off the cue ball. this entire system, whether using a center ball hit, or an off center hit(english) is with a straight(parrellel) stroke. no back hand english, as the glancing blow of back hand english will miss the shot by a good amount.

thanks

Sid_Vicious
01-08-2005, 09:23 PM
I put 30 minutes into this just now and it seemes to work most of the time, but I've personally noticed that I was subconsciously using the ferrule segments already for the most part. I wasn't drilling by thinking of the guarter but I think I'd adapted to it long ago when I stumbled onto the same idea way back when. Now that I've begun to revisit it consciously, it is appealing and rewarding. What I discovered after about 15 minutes is that I can drop into the shot and quickly pick the quarter aim point and stroke in my notmal cadience, and the success goes up. Maybe others who try this system by conscious effort can do the same, cuz it appears to me to be an easily learned and executed method of aiming,,,at least that's what I'm feeling after my first round tonight. Thanks...sid

yegon
01-09-2005, 01:48 AM
well the explanation is quite simple, this is basiclly a point of contact aiming method where you aim a contact point on the cue ball to the contact point on the object ball

it is simple to see the contact point on the object ball but the contact point on the cue ball is on the far side of it so you do not see it and this seems to be a helper to find it using a ferrule side.

if you cut a ball to the right the contact point on the cue ball is to the right from center so you can not aim the center of the cue ball at the contact point on the object ball, you have to move the aim line a bit to the right. The margin for error is big enough for this to work using the side of the ferrule for up to half table shots, but I would gess that if the oject ball is more than half a table from the pocket you would need to be more precise.

I myself use a contact point aiming so I will try this helper out, it could help me too. Thanks for posting it.

The english part would be largely cue and balls quality and cleanness dependant in my opinion.

vapoolplayer
01-09-2005, 04:43 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote yegon:</font><hr> well the explanation is quite simple, this is basiclly a point of contact aiming method where you aim a contact point on the cue ball to the contact point on the object ball

it is simple to see the contact point on the object ball but the contact point on the cue ball is on the far side of it so you do not see it and this seems to be a helper to find it using a ferrule side.

if you cut a ball to the right the contact point on the cue ball is to the right from center so you can not aim the center of the cue ball at the contact point on the object ball, you have to move the aim line a bit to the right. The margin for error is big enough for this to work using the side of the ferrule for up to half table shots, but I would gess that if the oject ball is more than half a table from the pocket you would need to be more precise.

I myself use a contact point aiming so I will try this helper out, it could help me too. Thanks for posting it.

The english part would be largely cue and balls quality and cleanness dependant in my opinion. <hr /></blockquote>

i still have not perfectly perfected it. (say that five times fast.....LOL) but any time i do miss, i usually find that i did something wrong in the stroke, such as trying to compensate because it did not look right, or just screw the stroke up. the accuracy of the system really depens on the accuracy of your eyes. this system even works for cheating the pocket, instead of drawing a line through the object ball to the center of the pocket, draw it to the part you are cheating. be careful though, because you must be VERY precice with your aim. and yes i'm sure how clean the balls are will change it a little, as cling and such will be more evident. also, maybe its just in my head, but aramith t.v. balls seem to cut a little more than the brunswick centennials, even though they are both supposed to be made by saluc. thanks, and keep the input coming. its my pleasure to share this system, since it was shared to me free of charge by someone.

thanks

jjinfla
01-09-2005, 01:54 PM
I know a guy at the pool hall who uses this method and he showed it to me but I do not use it. Except on a full ball hit or a half ball hit. Then I can sight down the cue.

I suppose when I line up for shots between full and half ball hit I should check and see what part of my cue lines up with what I am aiming at.

What is the diameter of your shaft. I use the Pred 314 and it is 12.75mm.

Jake

vapoolplayer
01-09-2005, 03:19 PM
i use a predator 314, but i had it tapered down to 12.5 and it still works. i also have the original shaft which is 12.4 and it works. i'm waiting on another predator to get here that i'm going to leave at 12.75. and i'm also going to be getting one of the mcdermott shafts at 12.75.

thanks