View Full Version : Is there anything Better than a predator 314 shaft

01-29-2005, 11:15 PM
I love my predator 314 shaft. Are there any other companies that make similar quality shafts? Anyone try out the predator z shafts? I am definately not swithing from the 314, I just wanted to see if I am the only one that is so partial to the 314 shafts and see if there is anything that is even close to the quality of the 314. If I had the cash I wish I could ditch my cheap break stick and pick up the predator bk cue. I have a cheap cobra cue that I've had over 10 years. Is Cobra still selling cues or in business /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

01-30-2005, 09:10 AM
The answer is a matter of choice. Look at the archives and you'll find plenty about the predator. I have a predator and love it. Many don't. I also have other cues and love those shafts as well. It's what makes you feel best.


01-30-2005, 09:48 AM
For me, just a plain old rock maple shaft, please.

01-30-2005, 10:13 AM
Yep, lots of pro/con 314 threads here, search around.

The Predator Z Shaft is a Euro taper version with a smaller tip. There are several other laminated so-called "low squirt" shafts out there: the Sharpshooter shaft from Cowboy Billiards and the X Shaft from Tiger, as well as Bob Meucci's Black Dot shaft.

Scott Lee
01-30-2005, 11:18 AM
Like David said, there are several competitors out there to Predator...six companies, in fact, make similar types of segmented shafts, in competition to Predator. They just can't advertise as much...yet! LOL I, for one, am NOT a pro-Predator person, but many others (including expert player friends of mine) swear by them, so it up to the individual. I will tell you my opinion...when you pay $200+ for just a shaft...that is EXACTLY (imo) what you're getting! LMAO

Scott Lee

01-30-2005, 12:17 PM
I think for shooting shots with english, you can't beat the 314. Of course I am a beginning player, so I can easily adjust to the 314. I guess players who have been playing for years with a regular shaft have a difficult time adjusting.

I think the best thing to do early on is try out different shafts, learn all you can about cue ball deflection (squirt), learn about the different shafts available, and experiment. Then go with one type and stick with it.

You can learn to play with a regular shaft or learn to play with a low deflection shaft.

When I first started playing seriously, someone told me to use english. Well I noticed right away that when I shot a long shot with english, the cue ball would not go where I was aiming! We're talking inches off the mark. That was one and a half years ago.

Since then I have been learning all I can. I recently decided to buy a Meucci PP butt and a 314 shaft. Now I can shoot a long shot with english and use my back hand as a pivot point, then the cue ball will go to the same target as a dead center hit.

I have learned in the past to be afraid of using english on long shots due to missing shots a lot. I am slowly starting to use english now on some long shots. It is nice to finally have "cue ball steering" and an accurate aim at the same time.

Basically I just need one aim now if it is a long shot and the ball is close to the pocket. I need to aim differently with cut shots where the object ball is far away from the pocket (throw) if using english. For now I'm using a dead center hit with these shots.

I considered the Z shaft, but it has a euro taper, so I thought the 314 would be better for me because I am used to a pro taper. For my purposes, with the 314, I can aim accurately using my method with english on a long shot, so there is no need for anything better. (If it works, don't fix it!)

I think a lot of players don't realize that changing cues, tips, shape of tip, hardness of tip, etc. may require them to re-learn to shoot some shots differently. Because of this, I think it is best to select a cue with the right weight, length, shaft size, tip hardness, tip material, and tip radius (dime, nickel, quarter), then be sure to keep your cue exactly that way at all times. Always have the same tip radius, then when you get a new tip, it will play the same as the old. A consistent cue will make for consistent play.

I've changed cues twice. Each time it was to solve a problem, I researched the problem, then fixed it with the new cue. Note that I am one of the few players in my area who selects a cue entirely because of the "front end" specifications. Everybody else selects cues by what the butt looks like and what name is scribbled there. I think that is the wrong end to be so concerned with.