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View Full Version : Trimming a Tip and need help



05-29-2002, 06:57 PM
Which tool is best for trimming a tip after installing a new layered tip? Mueller has Porper's Mushroom Grazer for $11.95 and Porpers' Cut-Rite Shaper/Cutter for $13.95 and Porper's Cue Rite Cue Tip Shaper for $41.95 and Porper Little Shaver for $11.95. What is best to use for layered tips? And is a Rapid cue Top Sander needed to prepare tops of ferruls? Please share your experience because there is no one else near my area that works on cues.
Oh yeah, what glue to use on tips? Super Glue Gel? TIA, Tipless in the boonies.

JimS
05-29-2002, 08:47 PM
I'm new enough at tip replacement that I tried all these gadgets. I liked the Porper Littel Shaver the best. It's considerable work to shave a layered tip with it but it does a neat job and you stand less chance of damaging the ferrule than when using a knife.

I think the rapid cue top sander is vital. How else can you get a almost perfectly flat service on the top of the ferrule? They are cheap and a nice tool.

I had no problems installing my own tips with these two tools and I tried all the others you've mentioned and probably a few more. Ruined a few tips and a ferrule (using a knife to trim the tip), but had fun learning /ccboard/images/icons/smile.gif

Fred Agnir
05-30-2002, 06:48 AM
From a complete amateur dolt point of view, and not to be confused with a professional who would use a lathe...

I use the Rapid Top Sander to face the ferrule. However, if you have a tapered shaft near the ferrule, then be advised that the facing will be slightly off perpendicular. Mostly, it's not a big deal. I've had an ongoing project to make a new guide for my Sander that will ensure perpendicularity. It's been ongoing for about 10 years.

To trim the sides, I think the best investment that I've made in recent years is the Joe Porper Big Shaver. I don't use this thing for any of the other things it does. I simply think that the trimmer on it is the best hand tool out there for this job.

For shaping, I used to just use a metal or plastic curved shaper. I think those other things like the Willard's shaper are no good. YMMV. However, I just recently purchased the Pocket Lathe ( <a target="_blank" href=http://www.playpool.com>http://www.playpool.com</a> ) This little gizmo is a diamond in the proverbial rough. Not only can I get that perfect radius, but I can do other minor repairs on the various shafts that I've scarred in the past. Basically, it's two supports that allow you to turn the shaft while sanding the tip. Simple and very effective.

Fred

JimS
05-30-2002, 06:58 AM
Thanks Fred....I forgot to mention the Pocket Lathe. I got one a couple months ago and I too have found it very useful. Makes shaping much easier! I like the Little Shaver better that the Big Shaver however.

stickman
05-30-2002, 07:18 AM
As far as glue goes, Super glue gel is probably the most popular. I suggest that you wrap the ferrule with tape so that when you place the tip on the ferrule and apply pressure any excess that might ooze out won't get on the sides of the ferrule.

05-30-2002, 01:26 PM
ooo, that's a good tip Stickman! Make sure you use low-tack painters mask though, otherwise you might find yourself worse off than when you started!

Vapros
05-30-2002, 02:57 PM
I'm not familiar with the Super Glue Gel, but I've got a little bottle of powerful stuff that I have been using on cue tips for years. It's Super Jet medium viscosity professional grade cyanoacrylate glue. It's in a 1 oz bottle for which I paid about $5-$6 several years ago. You keep it in the refrigerator. It a model cement and sets up quick and holds tight. Never failed me yet.

SpiderMan
05-30-2002, 06:06 PM
I've found that a thin, smooth, tacky tape works best. I use the strong variety of clear "Scotch" tape. The advantage here is that it doesn't let anything get between it and the ferrule. I wrap it on very tight with about 50% overhang, then trim flush with a razor knife. This is after preparing the ferrule top for glueing.

The reason I need to use such care is that I use slow-cure epoxy rather than super glue, and it is nearly impossible to get off a ferrule. On the other hand, it also holds up much better than the super glue. I've cut off a lot of super-glued tips and had the glue joint separate before the leather ripped. Of course, if you're trying to make a living doing tips you'll need to use the quick fix.

SpiderMan

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: Lorri:</font><hr> ooo, that's a good tip Stickman! Make sure you use low-tack painters mask though, otherwise you might find yourself worse off than when you started! <hr></blockquote>