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c.holtz009
03-21-2005, 08:27 AM
I have a McDermott M7QR5, and I don't like the joint on it for 2 reasons.

1. when I roll the shaft and butt separately, they are straight as an arrow. When I put the cue together and roll it, there is quite a wobble in it from the joint. I can fix the wobble by hand, and get the cue rolling true, then after a couple hours of play, the wobble comes back.

2. I would like to get a Predator shaft for it, but it's waaaaaay too expensive for me to send it down to McDermott to have one fitted to the butt,(I can get a brand new one here in Canada for $225 cdn tax in) and what's the point when the thing doesn't seem to stay straight anyway.

I was just wondering if anyone knows if the joint could be replaced on this cue. Can it be done? Would it be worth it? OR am I best off to just sell the thing and look for something else.
You see I really love the look of this cue, and would hate to part with it, but I am not confident with it the way it is.
There is a cue maker not far from here by the name of Jacques Brunet. (JB Cues)
Maybe I'll call him and see what kind of price I can get if he can replace it.
Any other suggestions would be welcomed and appreciated!!

Cueless Joey
03-21-2005, 09:03 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote c.holtz009:</font><hr> I have a McDermott M7QR5, and I don't like the joint on it for 2 reasons.

1. when I roll the shaft and butt separately, they are straight as an arrow. When I put the cue together and roll it, there is quite a wobble in it from the joint. I can fix the wobble by hand, and get the cue rolling true, then after a couple hours of play, the wobble comes back.

2. I would like to get a Predator shaft for it, but it's waaaaaay too expensive for me to send it down to McDermott to have one fitted to the butt,(I can get a brand new one here in Canada for $225 cdn tax in) and what's the point when the thing doesn't seem to stay straight anyway.

I was just wondering if anyone knows if the joint could be replaced on this cue. Can it be done? Would it be worth it? OR am I best off to just sell the thing and look for something else.
You see I really love the look of this cue, and would hate to part with it, but I am not confident with it the way it is.
There is a cue maker not far from here by the name of Jacques Brunet. (JB Cues)
Maybe I'll call him and see what kind of price I can get if he can replace it.
Any other suggestions would be welcomed and appreciated!!
<hr /></blockquote>
Make sure the faces of the shaft and butt are totally flat/square. You'll have to extend the whole cue on a lathe and take a fine pass on the faces of both pieces. IF that stops the wobble, you're done.
If the pin is crooked, that's another matter. You will have to heat it to melt the glue and remove it.

cheese_ball
03-21-2005, 09:31 AM
Sounds like the pin was installed incorrectly. It probably is not concentric with the butt (drilled and tapped in the EXACT center). (o)(O) If that's the case, don't bother trying to fix it... a new cue is a better option.

SpiderMan
03-21-2005, 10:06 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote c.holtz009:</font><hr> I have a McDermott M7QR5, and I don't like the joint on it for 2 reasons.

1. when I roll the shaft and butt separately, they are straight as an arrow. When I put the cue together and roll it, there is quite a wobble in it from the joint. I can fix the wobble by hand, and get the cue rolling true, then after a couple hours of play, the wobble comes back. <hr /></blockquote>

How do you "fix the wobble by hand"? Do you take the cue in your hands and bend it at the joint? And, when the wobble comes back after a few hours of play, do you mean that it changes without being unscrewed? If so, probably the joint isn't true but you are compensating for it by putting a slight temporary warp into the cue. Stop doing that.

If all the above is true, and both sections roll true individually, then probably you can fix the cue's straightness by individually trueing the two mating surfaces of the joint in a lathe. Just take a very slight trueing cut on each half.

Note that in some cases this can create an additional problem I'll call "stepoff" at the joint. Because the trueing cut removes a little material, the joint will now screw together a fraction of a turn more than before. If the joint was not perfectly concentric, then you may notice a slight mismatch at the mating line. It will be as if the two pieces have slipped sideways a thousandth or two. If it's the only shaft you use on that butt, you can (1) match the outer surfaces in the lathe after assembly, (2) chamfer the joint edges to make the stepoff less noticeable, or (3) ignore it.

Don't do (1) unless this is the only shaft with the cue.

SpiderMan

SecaucusFats
03-21-2005, 10:13 AM
McDermott cues come with a lifetime warranty when purchased thru an authorized dealer. Here is their contact info:

McDermott Handcrafted Cues
W146 N9560 Held Drive
Menomonee Falls, WI 53051

Toll Free: (800) 666-2283
Local: (262) 251-4090
Fax: (262) 251-9290

Email: Sales@mcdermottcue.com

Contact them and give them the opportunity to fix or replace the cue for you.

MrLucky
03-21-2005, 10:52 AM
Having used and owned many McD's this would also be my suggestion, The best feature of being a McDermott owner is the commitment they put behind their warranty ! /ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif Good Shooting!

Pizza Bob
03-21-2005, 04:49 PM
Spiderman:
Can this be done on this cue? The model number indicates a McD quick-release joint. If you true the shaft and butt mating surfaces, won't you change the depth of engagement on this type of joint? Which, I would think, result in not being able to fully tighten the joint (and there are precious few threads to begin with) or not engage the threads at all.

Adios,

Pizza Bob &lt;--votes for a return to McD to fix the problem, then worry about the predator shaft.

SpiderMan
03-22-2005, 09:13 AM
The additonal rotation at mating was what I was talking about when I mentioned the "stepoff" problem. The QR pin has a coarse enough thread that removing a few thousandths probably won't let it rotate more than a few additional degrees, so I'd expect it to still engage just fine.

I've never done this on a QR, but I've done it on 18-pitch threads a few times and didn't see much change in rotation on assembly.

Actually, you can calcuate the result - even if you take off 5 thousandths from the joint mating surfaces, an 18-pitch screw would only have to turn an additional 32.4 degrees to mate as before. This is enough to produce stepoff in a poorly-made cue, but should be insignificant as far as engagement is concerned. Coarser threads would show less change, and obviously a lighter cut would be less significant.

5 thousandths is a lot of correction - if the mating surfaces were off that much, we'd be looking at wobble between 1/8 and 1/4 inch out at the ferrule.

SpiderMan