View Full Version : Tip Problems (flattening and mushrooming)
07-25-2005, 02:55 PM
I've been playing on a graphite cuetec cue with the original tip for several years now. I've recently been playing a lot (couple hours a day), and the tip was worn down where I couldn't put a nickel radius on it (it flattened out), so I had it replaced with a LePro. With the LePro at a nickel radius, I've never played better, so I'd like to keep that radius.
After about 1hr of playing on the LePro, it mushrooms out, and the end flattens. I ended up reshaping it every night with that "ultimate" tool. I'll admit I was breaking on this cue as well, BUT...
So I got a predator cue friday since I'm alot more serious about playing now (and I really want to hear that "thunk" of a wood cue-- seems pretty stupid, I know, but this predator has really helped my position play so I have no regrets yet). I had a triangle put on my cuetec for breaking, and the Z shaft came with a very thin LePro (pretty sure).
I'm not breaking with the predator, but I'm still getting mushrooming and flattening every 10-20 shots. I've been using the burnish bit of the ultimate tool to squash the mushroomed end back into line with the furelle which seems to help my accuracy. I'm worried that I won't be able to reshape it more than a couple of times before I'll need to replace it.
So my questions are thus:
1. Am I doing something wrong to cause the mushrooming and flattening?
2. If I get a new tip on the predator, should I keep messing with a LePro, or would some other brand be better considering the flattening and mushrooming?
Thanks in advance,
07-25-2005, 04:06 PM
I have not used the brand of tip you mention, but...
When I was experimenting with different hardnesses of tips, this sounds like what happened to me when I tried out a soft tip (mushrooming).
And at first I had a regular medium tip on my break cue and this happened as well.
I currently use a hard tip for my playing cue and a break tip (very hard) for my breaking cue. Don't have any problems with mushrooming.
07-25-2005, 04:20 PM
LePro's can be all over the board, as far as hardness is concerned. Often times people will search through a whole box (50) to select the hardest ones. They can be a very good tip, but they are inconsistent. Various cures, such as soaking in milk and compressing with a vice, prior to installation - but the easiest thing to do is use a different tip. Many of the layered tips work well with minimal to no mushrooming. Or, continue to groom your LePro - sometimes they'll stabilize and require only minimal upkeep. Good luck!
Pizza Bob<----make mine a Moori
07-27-2005, 07:07 AM
I'll add to Bob's comments regarding the LePro - While they seem to play pretty well, several LePros I have removed have had "chunks" missing near the edge. This is a phenomenon I haven't observed on other tips, ie it seems to be a LePro trait.
08-01-2005, 02:42 PM
I just thought I'd reply to my post with what I've figured out.
The problems have nearly stopped entirely after putting the cue back on the lathe and cutting off the excess mushroomed portion with a razor blade (and then reshaping and burnishing, etc).
Using the burnish bit of the "Ultimate" tool to squash the mushroomed portion of the tip back in line with the ferrule was a pretty bad idea. That actually weakens a lot of the tip, and sponges up the edges, which just makes it mushroom even faster. Don't do that. It also put a little circle on the end of the shaft where then end of the tool went, and I'm really annoyed about that... so in general, don't use anything on the "Ultimate" tool except the tapper and abrasives.
I'm planning on playing on the tip for a while longer before having it put back on the lathe again. After that the tip should be in great shape for a while to come.
08-04-2005, 05:17 AM
I use a Water Buffalo tip. It is pretty hard. I break with it and shoot with it. The mushrooming is minimal. With a hard tip you need to make sure you chalk up after every shot but that's a good habit no matter which tip you use.
08-04-2005, 12:11 PM
i have a soft moori layered tip on my 314 shaft, and it seems to be similar to yours in that it mushroom out much more often than any other tip I have used.I have used soft tips before and it did take me some time to get to that sweet spot where it required very little maintenance. if I don't get there soon I may be trying what you did with yours to see if that helps
08-07-2005, 06:41 PM
Before I went to Mooris, I used LePro tips exclusively. The trick to them is exactly what you noticed. When you get the tip, play a little, then trim it. Play a little and trim it and so on until it seems to be holding relatively steady, then burnish it.
For burnishing, you can use the tool, but personally I prefer to use a dollar bill (or a hundred /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif) fold the bill twice long ways, then once the short way. Put a little spit (or water if you're particular) along the edge of the tip and then wrap the folded bill around the tip, squeeze and move your hand around the tip (not spin the cue). If you have a lathe, you can spin the shaft and follow the rest of the instructions. You want to feel a little heat from the friction between the bill and the tip. If the tip comes off, it wasn't on well enough anyhow. ALWAYS shape the tip after you burnish it (not before). You will find that the outer edge of the surface of the tip will harden as well and you need to rough it to avoid miscues.
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