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Shaka
09-08-2005, 03:21 PM
Been playing it for a month now and my enthusiasm in the game gets stronger and stronger.
1)If one accepts leaving the 15th ball in the rack and has to spot it on the head spot, where should one place the cueball to pot the ball and break out the rack. I dont think I can play shape that I wont be hitting a rail after pocketing the 15th ball to break out the rack. So that leaves me with 1 rail or 2. 1 rail implies likely hitting the side rail, missing the side pocket, having juice on the cueball to get to the rack. As well the window of shape is small to setup a one rail breakout. So is setting up for 2 rail a higher % shot? Whats ideal position and how do I hit the rack.

2)Say the cueball is behind (foot rail side)a freshly rack of 14 balls. Is there a way to get good legal safety in hitting the last row of balls? How, what spin, what if there are little gaps in the rack.

Bob_Jewett
09-08-2005, 06:28 PM
> 1)If one accepts leaving the 15th ball in the rack and has to spot
> it on the head spot, where should one place the cueball to pot the
> ball and break out the rack.

There are two standard paths to the rack from the spotted ball. The first is to hit just above the side pocket with running english to hit between the two head balls. The second is to go head rail, side rail and hit the side of the rack.
Irving Crane routinely used the 1-cushion shot, and would hit between the two head balls and then go to the side rail and spin to the center of the table. As you noted, it takes good position play to get the right angle on the spotted ball, which is about a 30-degree cut.

As for the two-cushion path, it's much more forgiving. Experiment.

> 2)Say the cueball is behind (foot rail side)a freshly rack of 14 balls.
> Is there a way to get good legal safety in hitting the last row of balls?
> How, what spin, what if there are little gaps in the rack.

In general for safes against a full rack, you have to play full onto some ball. As you seem to suspect, small gaps can be killers. In general, the end balls are not good ones to play against, as they tend to move after you hit them, although if you can use a little draw to bring the cue ball behind the main body of the rack, a corner-ball hit can work. Again, you have to experiment, and mind the gaps.

mworkman
09-09-2005, 07:15 AM
I'm going to start practicing those 2-rail routes also. One thing to not overlook and that comes up once in a while for me is when I have a nice side of the rack break ball, but I screw up on my position on my key ball. Sometimes it is easy to just leave the cueball in the rack. Then you get to put the cueball in the kitchen and shoot. It is a longer shot, but often better then trying a difficult recovery shot to get the shape you need.

100andout
09-09-2005, 04:50 PM
Good luck on your quest.....I was lucky enough to learn in a room jammed with great 14.1 players. Still took me about 8 years to run 100. Then the run lenght did'nt seem as important as playing the game correctly. I don't mind missing on a run that is technically correct. But on days when I'm banking everything and playing wild shots to keep the run going, it seems like work. Get Mike Sigels 150 and out on Mike Zuglan from Accu-stats, that will teach you volumes on the right way to run balls!...Later.Gerry