View Full Version : The choices are overwelming - Please help
12-23-2005, 02:40 PM
Gentlemen (and ladies) I hope I'm posting this question in the proper area.
After several years of taking in information, playing league and hopping all over the state nightly, bar to bar and halls, watching techniques,and attempting to perfect aspects of my game. I am ready to make a cue purchase which I hope will be one that will transgress with my level over time to be used exclusively. Obviously the decision is not easy,as to which cue but I have narrowed down to several builders, and would like some feedback from vet players to assist in my decision. I realize aspects of construction and playability/integrity are more important then fancy inlays and gaudy decals. Over the last several years, my taste has changed drastically from the love of turquoise and floating points to a more subtle but unique use of woods and design. At the moment my eyes are on the following manufacturers, First and Foremost is Miltonio custom cues, followed by Dale Perry and lastly (no joke) Mezz. No disrespect intended to Dale as my second choice, I like his work and many of his designs are stunning, Location of construction is mostly my biggest concern (humidity levels)but I might be too picky.. (ill take my hits like a trooper for comments) If anyone has any constructive criticism or Kudos, Please respond. /ccboard/images/graemlins/confused.gif
12-24-2005, 04:26 PM
dzcues.com (http://dzcues.com/) - may be worth a look too, if you're up for a few more choices. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif
12-24-2005, 06:46 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Proteon:</font><hr> ... Location of construction is mostly my biggest concern (humidity levels)... <hr /></blockquote>
Perhaps the cue makers will speak up, but I think that if the cue is well-made, the local humidity is irrelevant.
Have you made a list of the physical requirements of your custom cue? I can think of about a dozen, just off-hand. Some cue makers cannot or will not be willing to make the kind of cue you want.
Have you thought at all about the shafts?
For the money, I believe the best playing cues are Jacoby. Seriously, check out Jacoby Cues (http:///www.jacobycue.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabID=540) This is the best family you would want to deal with , and I do mean they are FAMILY OWNED. Great
cues that hit like a million./
Sneaky's are cheap and they hit like gold....check them out.......please.
Disclaimer: I am not being paid for any endorsement.
12-24-2005, 09:39 PM
Yes Bob I have my requirements defined, well into a dozen physical / esthetic combinations. I will require multiple shafts and tapers obviously. I have narrowed this to four desired with 2 as a bare minimum and Two Cue Butts. I have played with Jacobys, McDermotts,Vikings,preditors,Balabushka-reps and yes I did like the Jacoby. Another hurdle is the joint decision,composition and pin style, Which is my own preference and something everyone has an opinion regarding, but it all boils down to what type of feel I prefer. The halls around here don't really want to deal with a person who wont just walk in and buy a cue off the rack, and getting them to allow you to get a better feel for different combinations to make a decision is basically like pulling teeth. On a lighter note, and this is more of a comical holiday thing. Mom heard threw the grapevine (my wife) I was in the market for a cue (Im 39 years old) and decided to make my holidays special, so... (you know where im going) I saw the box under the tree...you cant hide a cue /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif so I knew what it was... A DP? /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif, I opened it and removed a Sportcraft Laser Cue!! /ccboard/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Just for kicks without removing any of the plastic coverings, I unscrewed the aluminum 3 inch ferrule , dropped in the 3 batterys trying not to strip all the hard clear die threaded plastics, and figured out to turn it on, it uses a touch sensor - midway the ferrule which is resistance sensitive to your skin, lighting the "hairy spotty" laser all while illuminating the clear middle ring, in between, an inch and a half of both sides of the ferrule base and the tip. Well this thing is flashing like the star on the tree, and simply attempting a solitary stroke almost resulted in what one could describe as a papercut from the overlap of the ferrule and the shaft, I just asked.. mom you shouldn't have... how much did this set you back??? GLADLY hemmicher slum-burger only wopped her $50.00, I said thank you very much. I didn't have the heart...
12-25-2005, 04:12 AM
THERE ARE NO CHOICES. ANY DAMN CUE WILL SUFFICE. PLAY ABILITY OF A CUE? WHO'S KIDDING WHO? CUES DON'T PLAY, PLAYERS PLAY. GET REAL.
12-25-2005, 01:38 PM
<Location of construction is mostly my biggest concern (humidity levels)but I might be too picky.. (ill take my hits like a trooper for comments) If anyone has any constructive criticism or Kudos, Please respond.>
I ordered a Southwest cue about 20 years ago, which are made in Las Vegas, about as dry a place as you can get. I played with it for many years in NYC, where conditions can get pretty humid. I've now been living in Oregon for three years, where summers can be as dry as a desert and winters are so wet Spanish moss grows as if it were New Orleans. But my Southwest, going on 20 years old, is as straight and solid as the day I got it.
So I dare say, if the cuemaker you decide on uses the care Jerry Frankin did to ensure the various woods have time to adjust during the stages of turning, you will not have a problem with varying degrees of humidity no matter where you play.
12-25-2005, 06:43 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote HALHOULE:</font><hr> THERE ARE NO CHOICES. ANY DAMN CUE WILL SUFFICE. PLAY ABILITY OF A CUE? WHO'S KIDDING WHO? CUES DON'T PLAY, PLAYERS PLAY. GET REAL. <hr /></blockquote>
Of course I understand you fully, but I don't agree ANY damn cue will suffice, the differences ARE evident, I wont even go into details, like the gentleman with the Southwest from 20 years ago...I'm not looking to purchase SKILL, I want a CUE and ANY damn cue isn't what "I" am looking for, As for getting real.. the reality will come directly in the form of COLD HARD CASH to the builder I choose, which I have no problem what so ever shelling out by the bucketload for what "I" decide upon.. Since when is getting more information a crime?
12-25-2005, 07:49 PM
I'm not trying to be out of line,and I understand your problem. But I was wondering how much you plan to spend?
12-26-2005, 09:44 AM
Proteon Contact DaytonCues.com and tell him Butch Leonard told you to contact him and Give you my Discount. Pauls Cues are the best.####
12-26-2005, 05:16 PM
Drop, if my math is correct, the finished product will run me anywhere from 6-8K depending obviously on the builder's time and pricing, and where I draw the line with uniqueness. I haven't seen very many in the field doing a lot of filigreeing inlays, still researching this. After seeing some of the high end designs (DROOL) to some the reaction is how much? your crazy!,and others, thats all?
12-26-2005, 05:54 PM
My path. Your path and result will be different.
Played with bar sticks for years. Didn't really
want to put a lot of money into something that
I'd have to "guard" or "baby". Tried out all
my friends' cues. Liked the Predator best.
Always seemed to win when I used Dave's Predator.
Then picked up an Excaliber reinforced break stick.
Played like a Predator. Wow. And under $200.
That was 6 years ago. Used it until a year ago
when I picked up a friends NICK VARNER.
It was instant love! Under $200. Now it weighs
22 oz, has a Triangle tip, on a Micarta ferral.
Makes me feel like I'm Rodney Morris.
That's all I'm gonna say. 'ere-ya-go
12-26-2005, 07:17 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Proteon:</font><hr>... . The halls around here don't really want to deal with a person who wont just walk in and buy a cue off the rack, and getting them to allow you to get a better feel for different combinations to make a decision is basically like pulling teeth. ...<hr /></blockquote>
You may want to make a trip to Oregon before you decide. The most customer-friendly cue dealer I've ever heard of is there. Here is a post I made in some other forum...
In my opinion, someone wanting to sell you a shaft needs to let you chalk it and spin the ball with it, or you end up buying a pig in a poke. You cannot tell how a shaft will play without spinning the ball.
There are retailers who will whine and gnash their teeth about this, but if they don't know how to make a shaft look enough like new, they need to get out of billiard retail. Just my opinion. There is a cue store in Oregon that has literally hundreds of cues available up to the very expensive, and they encourage customers to play with a cue as long as they need to make a decision. People go out of their way to go there to buy cues. Billiards and Bagels, Gresham, Oregon.
12-26-2005, 07:32 PM
What you plan on spending seems about right. People will say a lot of things,but they don't understand money is something to have fun with. When I have it,I have fun,and when I don't have it,I have fun.
12-27-2005, 12:07 AM
One cuemaker that you may want to look into is Bill Schick, though I had heard that he stopped taking orders for cues a few years ago. (could be wrong) I've played with a few of his cues, and aside from the custom cue I had done by Barry Cameron, his cues hit the best of any cue I've ever played with, and they are some of the most skillfully built as well. They do run a bit on the pricey end, but it's well worth the effort if you are looking for a cue that will look outstanding, and will appreciate in value as you own it. I would recommend Barry, but from the sounds of it you may want a little bit more work than Barry generally likes to do on his cues. Good luck in finding one that you like...
BTW, DP is an excellent choice as well, as are the other cuemakers which have been mentioned in this thread. All of them have something unique as a cuemaker to offer you the customer. You just have to make the decision as to which cuemaker fits what you want and go with that cuemaker.
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