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Drop1
01-10-2006, 10:10 AM
I can draw the ball back about half the table. I wonder is the stroke on a power draw the same,other than hitting the cue ball harder.

Scott Lee
01-10-2006, 10:13 AM
Drop 1...There is a significant difference in reaction of the CB, between hitting the CB "harder", which generally translates to a tighter grip and forced 'punch' through the CB; and a loose grip, but higher speed swing (with the proper finish)...which will give you a heck of a lot more action on the CB. In simple terms, you get more action using the weight of the cue and timing, than you get with using force alone.

Scott Lee

Brad
01-10-2006, 10:48 AM
Very well stated, Scott. It's hard to get that across to beginners, and even some intermediates.

Billy_Bob
01-10-2006, 10:56 AM
Use a striped ball for practice. Chalk well before each draw shot, especially around the sides of the tip. Inspect the tip under the light. Make sure there are no dark spots and that you did a good job chalking.

Then shoot the striped ball to far end of table with draw. A typical players draw will get the striped ball to rotate backwards to about halfway down the table, then it will begin to slide, then it will begin a forward roll.

The idea is to keep it rolling backwards all the way down to the end of the table. With the striped ball, you can clearly see if it is rotating backwards, sliding, or has a forward roll.

I've noticed you keep asking about draw shots. This is good. I spent a long time working on my draw shots, and it has paid off big time.

I'll get trashed for what I am about to say, but here goes anyway... I tried out different tips and different shapes of tips for draw. I get the best draw and the most consistent draw with a hard Moori (Q) dime shaped tip which always has the same surface condition.

I always keep it a dime shape, and about once a week I lightly sand the tip with dime shaped sandpaper shaper.

Along with *always* chalking well, I *always* am shooting with a tip which is in the *exact* same shape and condition.

Then next I line up a row of balls across the table near the center pockets. Then place cue ball 1 diamond back. I practice drawing back 1 diamond, 2, 3, half table, full table (comes back to rail then goes back to center of table).

More often than not, in games, I can draw back pretty much the distance I want. 6 inches, 1 ft., 1/2 table, etc. I feel always playing with the same weight cue, same exact tip, and same quality of chalking - along with years of practice is what allows me to be accurate on my draws.

For a power or long draw, what helps me do this is a closed bridge, very loose grip on butt (maybe just two fingers gripping cue), tons of follow through, and a last second "wrist flick" just before the tip hits the cue ball.

So good for you for working on your draw. I got ticked several years ago because I would draw back too far, not at all, or not enough. I spent a *lot* of time and money trying different tips, different tip shapes, different hardness of tips, etc. I was just determined to figure out how draw shots worked and how to do them.

Also note that the cloth on the table, if slow cloth, will not give you as much draw. And some cue balls (in bars) in really terrible condition are difficult to draw. These have a dull look and are pitted all over from years of flying onto the floor. The best draw will be on fast cloth with a brand new cue ball which has been coated with silicone lubricant.

dr_dave
01-10-2006, 02:16 PM
Some good advice has already been posted in this thead.

The only things that really matter are stick speed and cue tip offset at impact. Whatever works best for you to generate stick speed and to accurately hit the cue ball low and consistently without miscuing is the way to go.

FYI, other advice on how to do that can be found in the threads linked under "draw" in the threads summary area of my website (http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/pool/threads.html).

Regards,
Dave

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Drop1:</font><hr> I can draw the ball back about half the table. I wonder is the stroke on a power draw the same,other than hitting the cue ball harder. <hr /></blockquote>

Fran Crimi
01-11-2006, 07:11 AM
I think that the biggest barrier players have to overcome in executing the power draw shot is the psychological barrier. Most people need to feel some sort of control in what they do. Shots like the power draw involve the art of letting go. The more of a control-type personality the player has, the more difficult it will be to allow themselves to let go.

The need for control is simply a manifestation of fear---with shots like the power draw, the fear being to overdo the stroke and maybe, look like a fool, or rip the cloth, or miss the ball altogether.

I see it all the time with players trying to power draw a shot. It's as if I can almost hear them saying to themselves during the stroke, "Okay, that's enough now. Ease up a bit. Don't want to lose control."

Another big control issue is not going low enough on the cb. Go low. Miscue under the ball if you have to until you can overcome that fear. See...the worst happened...you misuced and you didn't die.

My advice is go ahead and allow yourself to let go. Let your stroke all the way out. Try to rip the cloth. It's not going to happen. But what may happen, is that you may wind up drawing the cb back the length of the table.

And don't forget to gauge the results. If you're hitting the ball really really hard and it's not drawing back, then you're not hitiing it low enough.

Fran