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StLSteve
06-29-2002, 08:25 PM
Hi, I have bought a table, it will be delivered in Aug. What is the correct height for the light(s) above the table? I know I could just hang it up, but I would like to know if there is a regulation/recommended distance from the playing surface to the light. Thanks to all that reply.

06-29-2002, 08:33 PM
30 in from the bottom of the shade

Chris Cass
06-29-2002, 08:35 PM
Oh Steve,

I'm glad you brought this question up. I have been under the impression for yrs., it was 42" above the table. We had this conversation at the ph, the other day. We found a tape measure and it was 44" and I have said all along, it was too high. Can't wait for a reply. Great post.

Regards,

C.C.

PQQLK9
06-29-2002, 08:43 PM
http://www.familyrec.com/lights1.htm

Chris Cass
06-29-2002, 09:12 PM
Thanks Nick,

C.C.

StLSteve
06-30-2002, 08:44 AM
Thank you Pool Dawg (Nick), the site was very informative. Although I don't think I will hang it until after the table is placed. I want it to be centered on the table in both directions exactly (anal retentive), haha.

06-30-2002, 09:31 AM
What are the best type of light bulbs to use over a table? Flourescent or incandesant? If flourescent what length is best? Four footers and use two lengths to cover almost the entire length of the table? Or would eight footers be better? And how many are necessary? The light bill can problably get expensive.

Chris Cass
07-02-2002, 12:57 AM
Hi Eddie,

You have to talk to Jim S. He built his own and it's beautiful. The problem with Flourescents is the light is fluttery. I had the hardest last 20 yrs with these type of lights. The regular incandesant's are the best to natural light IMO. As far as sizes go. A bar box needs a bar of 3 100Watt bulbs IMO. 4 100Watt light bulbs for a 9 ft. that's the best I can give. The Flourescents may be cheaper but unlikely. I think there's a certain type of ballast that you need or they hum. Talk to Jim, he know's all about it.

Regards,

C.C.~~good luck shooting.

JimS
07-02-2002, 07:17 AM
I had 4, 100 watt incandescents over my 9 ft Brunswick. They lit the table ok but there were shadows where I didn't want them and they put out a LOT of heat.

When I began to think about ordering my Diamond table I started looking at their light which has 4, 8ft flourescent bulbs. I posted here asking about lights and Houston Dan replied that he'd made his own with 6, 8ft bulbs. I can't saw a 2x4 straight so I had a guy make mine and I do love it. I don't agree with CC that the light is "fluttery". At least I don't think mine is.

I had the light done and hanging up and there was a lot of "buzzing". Took the light apart, insulated the box....thinking that the buzzing was coming from a sort of harmonic resonance thing between the light ballasts and the box...it did no good. I finally had to get rid of the regular ballasts and get electronic ballasts for the 3 fixtures.

If I had the opportunity to do it all over again I'd probably opt for the Diamond light. Although mine is beautiful and does a great job I think I've probably paid more for it now than the Diamond light cost and it would have perfectly matched my table......another tough lesson learned by trial and error and trying to save a buck! But...I'm happy...completely satisfied with the light from this monster 8ft by 4ft box with 6 8ft bulbs. Trust me..there are no shadows on this table!.

As to the original question about height....I have read 33" above the table. I tried several different heights w/my first fixture and I'd recommend doing just that...try several different heights and see what works for you. I've got this big box light about 39" above my table. I'd recommend flourescent. The heat factor is important to me and those 100 watt light bulbs put out some considerable heat. Chris is right about needing a 4 bulb fixture for incandescent bulbs over a 9 ft and that is none too much light....but then I like a really bright table w/no shadows.

SPetty
07-02-2002, 08:27 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: JimS:</font><hr> If I had the opportunity to do it all over again I'd probably opt for the Diamond light. Although mine is beautiful and does a great job I think I've probably paid more for it now than the Diamond light cost and it would have perfectly matched my table......another tough lesson learned by trial and error and trying to save a buck! <hr></blockquote>Hi JimS,

As you may remember, I've been keenly interested in these light threads. I don't recall you ever saying this before. Can I re-ask it a bit differently? If cost didn't figure into it at all, would you still have gone with the Diamond light? I thought your (and Dan's) light was better in some way because there were more light bulbs. Is that true? Would you really be as happy or happier with the fewer bulbs in the Diamond light? Would there be enough light for you now that you're used to the six bulbs?

I'm pretty sure I'd rather buy it than build it, but I was considering building it because you guys liked your homemade ones so much better than the store-bought ones...

Thanks in advance, oh, and hdj, feel free to step in and answer as well.

TomBrooklyn
07-16-2002, 02:01 PM
Heres a lighting suggestion: http://www.worldpoolchampionship.com/images/TVTable4.jpg

No shadows or dark spots.

Sunglasses may be purchased separately.

Michelle
07-16-2002, 02:29 PM
I have heard that the height can be anywhere between 30-36" above the table.
The first thing to take into consideration is tha angle of the shade. As the light comes off the outer edge of the shade, make sure the light reaches far enough to just an inch or two past the rails.
Also, if you have a lot of light in your room, you can hang it a little higher than if your room is darker.

Most of our customers use 100-150 watt bulbs in their light that have 3 or 4 individual shades.

07-16-2002, 05:01 PM
Go to Lowes and look at their drop lights. They are very similar to what many pool halls use. They have a 16" dome and use Halogen bulbs and only cost $49.00. Three each will work very well on a 9' table. Many styles to choose from.
Alot cheaper than buying something rigged up just for a pool table.

Regards, Kelly

07-16-2002, 05:05 PM
This should answer all concerns about light:

http://www.wpa-pool.com/rules/tablespecs.htm

15. Lights
The bed and rails of the table must receive at least 520 lux (48 footcandles) of light at every point. A screen or reflector configuration is advised so that the center of the table does not receive noticeably more lighting than the rails and the corners of the table. If the light fixture above the table may be moved aside (referee), the minimum height of the fixture should be no lower than 40 inches [1.016 m] above the bed of the table. If the light fixture above the table is non-movable, the fixture should be no lower than 65 inches [1.65 m] above the bed of the table. The intensity of any directed light on the players at the table should not be blinding. Blinding light starts at 5000 lux (465 footcandles) direct view. The rest of the venue (bleachers, etc.) should receive at least 50 lux (5 footcandles) of light.

Tom_In_Cincy
07-16-2002, 05:08 PM
http://www.diamondbilliard.com/img/light2.gif

Diamond tables offer an 8 foot table rails (its upside down..for those of you that didn't notice) for lighing for their 9 foot gems.

Greg/Diamond
07-16-2002, 11:21 PM
Steve,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I can't give you a standard height for every light . However, the suggested height for a Diamond light is 78" from the floor or 48" from the bed. Diamonds main goal is to eliminate shadows and light the entire playing surface equally. The best way for us to achieve our goal is to make the light the same size as the playing surface and direct the light straight down. The best feature of our light is the 1/2" silver parabolic diffusion grid which reduces glare by directing the light straight down on the cloth where it belongs................ All the materials needed to build your own light are readily available. If you decide to make your own I'd be happy to try and talk you through it. Its not a rocket ship and only requires some labor and common sense................ I personally don't like the 3 shade setup. Physics tells you light travels in a straight line and 3 or 4 bulbs will create bright spots and shadows. But for some people they like the way the shades looks and to each their own. I usually use 2 florescent fixtures with 4 tubes, however I can use 3 fixtures just as easily and sometimes do if there are other lights on close to the table. Hope this helps!...............Greg/Diamond.....812-945-2891 home#

07-17-2002, 12:31 AM
you might want to consider "daylight" bulbs if using 4' bulbs, they are a different type of lighting not cool white.
some home improvment have examples set up to show the way the light looks.
the daylight is not bright as cool white but it provides a great impression of the light of day over your table and i find it quite nice personally
just a thought

bye