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mjmsj
01-14-2006, 07:50 PM
I am setting up a room for a new pool table. Need advice on lighting and flooring...
Lighting - considerations include a large room, high ceiling. No lights in room at this time. Thinking of rod light with light/transparent shade so to light up the whole room, not just table top. Any/all thoughts appreciated...
Flooring - considerations include a oak hardwood plank floor. Should I have the floors sanded and redone, add a area rug or carpet the room? Again, suggestions are appreciated

Rich R.
01-15-2006, 07:53 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote mjmsj:</font><hr> I am setting up a room for a new pool table. Need advice on lighting and flooring...
Lighting - considerations include a large room, high ceiling. No lights in room at this time. Thinking of rod light with light/transparent shade so to light up the whole room, not just table top. Any/all thoughts appreciated...
Flooring - considerations include a oak hardwood plank floor. Should I have the floors sanded and redone, add a area rug or carpet the room? Again, suggestions are appreciated <hr /></blockquote>
First of all, you will need a good pool table light, hanging over the table. Don't cut this. Any type of lighting from the ceiling will not be adequate and will most likely cast shadows.

You can add a variety of light for the rest of the room, like track lighting or wall fixtures. A lot depends on what else is going to be in the room.

You mention the oak floor and refinishing. I am assuming the oak flooring is already in place. Refinishing would be a personal choice and it depends on the current condition of the floor and what look you are going for.

You may want to consider carpeting in the area of the table, but it is not a must. It will be much better on your feet and legs, after hours of playing.

iacas
01-15-2006, 08:36 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Rich R.:</font><hr>First of all, you will need a good pool table light, hanging over the table. Don't cut this. Any type of lighting from the ceiling will not be adequate and will most likely cast shadows.<hr /></blockquote>

I am having a room (http://iacas.org/asm/room/) built too. It's not a big room.

I'm likely going with can lights in the ceiling (recessed lighting). Three over the table on an 8' ceiling. I am concerned about properly lighting the table: how far apart should the lights be? What wattage? How focused should the dome of light be?

Scott Lee
01-15-2006, 11:55 AM
iacas...There is a world of difference between incandescent light and flourescent light. The 'can' lights would need to be a fairly high wattage (which throws off a lot of heat, and uses a lot of juice) to spread a strong enough light to light the entire surface of the table. Generally, the height between the bottom of the light source and the cloth is around 30"...yours would be more like double that.
jmo

Scott Lee

iacas
01-15-2006, 12:12 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr> iacas...There is a world of difference between incandescent light and flourescent light. The 'can' lights would need to be a fairly high wattage (which throws off a lot of heat, and uses a lot of juice) to spread a strong enough light to light the entire surface of the table. Generally, the height between the bottom of the light source and the cloth is around 30"...yours would be more like double that.<hr /></blockquote>

No offense, but "duh." That's why I've asked what wattage and what spacing will work (along with any other factors). It can obviously be done. They don't light tournament tables by hanging lights right over the table. Clearly they have a little more power available to them for TV, but it can be done.

"It will be tough" was basically your response, and while I appreciate it, it doesn't get me any closer to an answer than I was before.

Scott Lee
01-15-2006, 12:20 PM
iacas...They don't hang lights over tournament tables? What tournaments don't do this? I've never seen any... I can't answer your question of how much wattage...and I have seen it done that way (I just installed a table in a multimillion dollar home in Big Sky a few weeks ago with the same lighting). It's just not the optimal choice, imo.
It just doesn't throw enough light to satisfactorily light the table. jmo

Scott Lee

iacas
01-15-2006, 02:06 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>iacas...They don't hang lights over tournament tables?<hr /></blockquote>

They don't hang lights 30" over the table. They'd obstruct the cameras...

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>What tournaments don't do this? I've never seen any...<hr /></blockquote>

Ever watched one on ESPN? C'mon... they aren't using "pool table lights" there.

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>It's just not the optimal choice, imo. It just doesn't throw enough light to satisfactorily light the table. jmo<hr /></blockquote>

I'm sure it can be done, and has been done. The bulbs in pool table lights aren't exactly terribly bright. 60 watts? And coverage by three or four lights? Without very much of a focus at all?

bsmutz
01-15-2006, 02:21 PM
I am using a three light fixture hung 45" above the playing surface (outside bulbs a little over 2' apart, a little more than 6' from the floor) with 75 watt bulbs and have no problems with shadows. I have also used a two-bulb 8" flourescent fixture hung about the same height with no problems. I don't like having the lights 30" above table because I always hit the light with my cue. Even with almost 4' I still hit the lights once in a while. I can even play adequately with the 2 ceiling lights (my table is in the garage). I think there is more concern about this issue than there needs to be. As long as the room is well lit from a wide source, there shouldn't be a problem with shadows. With the lights off during the day with sun light coming in from the windows along the garage door, I do have problems seeing the angles and edges of the balls. Omnidirectional light is what I would install if I didn't want to hang a fixture directly over the table. For the original poster, carpet is definitely the way to go for hours of comfortable playing, just be aware that the table will settle over time and may need to be releveled after a period of time. I am planning on putting my snooker table directly on the floor and putting carpet around the outside edges of the table. Another alternative would be to cut holes in the carpet to allow the legs to sit directly on the floor.

wolfdancer
01-15-2006, 03:29 PM
I've got a little experience with lights, having installed the lighting for a 37 table room, some years ago, and I've worked on other room's lighting as well.....but I'm no expert...
The 30" height from the playing surface that Scott mentioned is a good ballpark figure...We came up with 32" for that room's lighting, and that was the approximate height for the florescent fixtures, another room ownere used.
Another room owner used the lo voltage, 12v fixtures.
I'm not a big fan of ceiling fixtures, cans.....I worked on some in one room, and while the lighting was adequate....it didn't "hilite" the table
I like to see the lighting focused more on the table, with everything else being ambient lighting.
It's easy to figure out how far to space the lights:
position on directly in the center....the other two are positioned at the half way point between there and the end of the playing surface.
If you have a cheap portable work light, with a metal shade...stick a 100 w bulb in, and suspend it over the table by hand....you'll see that if it's too low the felt will be dark near the cushions.....too high and the light gets diffused ....but at one point is just right, about 30-33"
For my own table...after trying florescents....I bought Warehouse shades $21 each, and "Daylight" standard base florescent bulbs.....They are rated at the equiv. of 100w, but use only 16w....and the light is easier on the eyes then reg florescents.

iacas
01-15-2006, 04:15 PM
FWIW, I have to make these decisions before I have the table. The room is being built right now and the table won't be there until the room is finished.

As a backup plan I may have them install an outlet by the lights in case I have to suspend a standard pool table light over the table, but that's unlikely and not really something I'm looking to do.

I think three to four lights over the 9' space of the table from eight feet should work, I just want to try to make sure of it as much as I can prior to actually doing it.

Thanks for the comments. I didn't mean to hi-jack the thread - hopefully the original poster is getting some answers to his questions.

Scott Lee
01-15-2006, 06:17 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote iacas:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>iacas...They don't hang lights over tournament tables?<hr /></blockquote>

They don't hang lights 30" over the table. They'd obstruct the cameras...

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>What tournaments don't do this? I've never seen any...<hr /></blockquote>

Ever watched one on ESPN? C'mon... they aren't using "pool table lights" there.

<hr /></blockquote>

iacas...I watched a tournament on ESPN tonight; WPBA National Championships. The light was hung directly over the table. Could have been 40" off the table, but no more.
I think you are not recognizing what the table lights look like, because you can't see any 'bulbs', as they are in an enclosed wooden fixture. They say Brunswick on the sides, just like the tables. Look again... Wolfdancer gave you some good advice. If you still choose can lights, then you get what you get.

Scott Lee

Rich R.
01-15-2006, 09:33 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr> iacas...There is a world of difference between incandescent light and flourescent light. The 'can' lights would need to be a fairly high wattage (which throws off a lot of heat, and uses a lot of juice) to spread a strong enough light to light the entire surface of the table. Generally, the height between the bottom of the light source and the cloth is around 30"...yours would be more like double that.<hr /></blockquote>

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote iacas:</font><hr> No offense, but "duh." That's why I've asked what wattage and what spacing will work (along with any other factors). It can obviously be done. They don't light tournament tables by hanging lights right over the table. Clearly they have a little more power available to them for TV, but it can be done.

"It will be tough" was basically your response, and while I appreciate it, it doesn't get me any closer to an answer than I was before. <hr /></blockquote>
iacas, Scott is trying to give you some good information here, but, it seems, you have your mind made up and you don't want to take his advise.

Assuming you really want some advise, let me put in my 2 cents.

You can't compare the lighting for the TV matches to what you would put in your home. "Duh."
No, they don't always have fixtures hanging 30" from the table surface. However, they do have two extremely large banks of lights running up both sides of the TV table area. Each of these banks contains dozens of bulbs, each of which is several hundred watts. There is a ton of light, because it is required for the TV cameras.
You couldn't, and wouldn't want to, duplicate this set up at home.

BTW, the preliminary matches at these major tournaments are played on tables, with good lighting fixtures hanging at the proper height above the table surface. Depending on the tournament, and the table supplier, these fixtures usually have 4, 8', florescent tubes in each. There is pleanty of light.

IMHO, the biggest problem with lighting a table with ceiling fixtures, as you want to do, is that they will cast a lot of shadows.

I highly recommend following Scott's advise, but, in the end, it is your table and you have to live with your decisions.

iacas
01-15-2006, 11:02 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote bsmutz:</font><hr> I am using a three light fixture hung 45" above the playing surface (outside bulbs a little over 2' apart, a little more than 6' from the floor) with 75 watt bulbs and have no problems with shadows<hr /></blockquote>

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Rich R.:</font><hr>IMHO, the biggest problem with lighting a table with ceiling fixtures, as you want to do, is that they will cast a lot of shadows. I highly recommend following Scott's advise, but, in the end, it is your table and you have to live with your decisions.<hr /></blockquote>

He didn't really have any advice except "don't do that." I'm asking how something can be done - something that seems like it can be done by what the first quote from bsmutz says - and he's saying "don't do that."

I've done a little TV production. I know what kind of lighting is used. But I also know that it's possible to get 90% of that light on a "home" budget because I don't have to worry about lighting the players (etc.) - just the table.

So, given that I've got an 8' ceilling, and that I can't hang a standard old pool table light because I've got to have the thing available as a ping pong table too (the wife's only real demand in this whole "build a pool room" adventure), I'm hoping to get advice beyond "don't do it."

wolfdancer
01-15-2006, 11:56 PM
I don't think you mentioned before that the table would double as a ping pong table.......seems like the two choices then would be your ceiling cans....or a hanging fixture, that can be easily removed.
I'd have never asked for any input, without giving out the small detail about Ping Pong

wolfdancer
01-16-2006, 12:09 AM
Hey, we all got side-tracked on the other guys trick question.
It'd be a shame to cover up nice hardwood floors.....you can easily add some area carpeting around the table itself.
I looked at translucent shades, and found them to be a distraction....you want all the lighting focused on the playing surface.
I wouldn't want my table lights to be the room lighting.
Eventually, I'll put soft shaded lighting on the walls.
Check out the lighting section in home Depot, or a lighting specialty store......the right lighting can make all the difference in the room.
you won't be playing ping pong? or using the table to practice putting will you? that might narrow down your choices....

pooldaddy9
01-16-2006, 05:07 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote iacas:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>iacas...They don't hang lights over tournament tables?<hr /></blockquote>

They don't hang lights 30" over the table. They'd obstruct the cameras...

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>What tournaments don't do this? I've never seen any...<hr /></blockquote>

Ever watched one on ESPN? C'mon... they aren't using "pool table lights" there.

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>It's just not the optimal choice, imo. It just doesn't throw enough light to satisfactorily light the table. jmo<hr /></blockquote>


I'm sure it can be done, and has been done. The bulbs in pool table lights aren't exactly terribly bright. 60 watts? And coverage by three or four lights? Without very much of a focus at all? <hr /></blockquote>


I have an 8' table with 3 lights over it. 22" apart and 42" over the table. I use 150 watt bulbs. If you go higher than that over your table, you may want to use 4 lights. Never had anyone say it was too bright. I like it better than the flourecent lights I had before. Scott, what did you think about the lighting when you were here? For sure everyone is different. Hopes this helps.

Rich R.
01-16-2006, 06:15 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote iacas:</font><hr>So, given that I've got an 8' ceilling, and that I can't hang a standard old pool table light because I've got to have the thing available as a ping pong table too (the wife's only real demand in this whole "build a pool room" adventure), I'm hoping to get advice beyond "don't do it." <hr /></blockquote>
It would have been nice to give us the small detail about the ping pong table use, before dismissing advice with a "Duh". Scott was giving you advise based on the pool table only.

In your case, you will have to do whatever you can to make it work. I would suggest a lot of those ceiling cans, that you seem to want to use. However, it will not be an optimum set up for the pool table.

With your attitude, I'm surprised you even asked for advise. You seem to know it all already. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

iacas
01-16-2006, 06:26 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote pooldaddy9:</font><hr>I have an 8' table with 3 lights over it. 22" apart and 42" over the table. I use 150 watt bulbs. If you go higher than that over your table, you may want to use 4 lights. Never had anyone say it was too bright. I like it better than the flourecent lights I had before. Scott, what did you think about the lighting when you were here? For sure everyone is different. Hopes this helps.<hr /></blockquote>

Thanks. That's useful information.

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Rich R.:</font><hr>With your attitude, I'm surprised you even asked for advise. You seem to know it all already.<hr /></blockquote>
I wouldn't have asked if I thought that. However, I do know what the limitations I face are, so it would be pretty dumb to take advice that doesn't fit those limitations. I could have been more precise in saying WHY I believed I had to go with can lights, I suppose, but that sure as heck doesn't make me a know-it-all.

wolfdancer
01-16-2006, 08:38 AM
Rich, good reply.....
I guess all of us that suggested lights suspended over the table....are now supposed to feel stupid, or think that the ceiling cans idea was ingenious..
I think it is "brilliant", as they would say on Monty Python.
I'm thinking I could ask about table recommendations, and after I get input on drop pockets Vs return tracks, tight Vs standard pocket openings, Arimith balls, etc.....I could then reveal I was referring to a Billiards table.....

Scott Lee
01-16-2006, 09:59 AM
Joel...Your lights are fine. Iacas is talking about recessed can lights in the ceiling.

iacas...For the record, I did say that I had just installed a table in a room with this type of lighting, and it was sufficient, but not optimal. You forgot to mention the ping pong table top, although I remember it now, from an earlier thread. I never said "don't do that", just that it wouldn't be the best light for the pool table!

Scott Lee

wolfdancer
01-16-2006, 10:14 AM
Scott, maybe he should have asked the members over at
web page (http://www.pongworld.com/)
about table lights. Them lights suspended only 30" above a table...can raise heck during a ping pong game....not to mention
the chance of injury on an overhead smash.

iacas
01-16-2006, 12:03 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr>iacas...For the record, I did say that I had just installed a table in a room with this type of lighting, and it was sufficient, but not optimal. You forgot to mention the ping pong table top, although I remember it now, from an earlier thread. I never said "don't do that", just that it wouldn't be the best light for the pool table!<hr /></blockquote>

I know. The hesitancy you and wolf showed led me to visit a lighting place. The ideas are simply this:

1) three eyeball lights (just for the added adjustability), 75w halogen, on a dimmer. Plenty of brightness and should eliminate shadows and glare.
2) six eyeball lights, still 75w, criss-crossing each other. This will provide LOTS of light and will eliminate virtually all shadows.

The remainder of the room I can figure out independently, of course. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks.

CaptainHook
01-16-2006, 12:33 PM
How much room would i need with a 3 1/2 X 7 ? /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

wolfdancer
01-16-2006, 12:34 PM
Scott,now Iacas now claims that your hesitancy led him to a lighting store. I thought you did everything but draw him a wiring diagram, and explain how to turn the lights on and off

iacas
01-16-2006, 12:43 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote wolfdancer:</font><hr> Scott,now Iacas now claims that your hesitancy led him to a lighting store. I thought you did everything but draw him a wiring diagram, and explain how to turn the lights on and off.<hr /></blockquote>
I see no need to be a prick, dude. Scott has been twice the help and gentleman you have been.

I went to a lighting store to get a better idea what can and can't be done from five feet above the table. Needless to say, though it may not be the "optimum" solution, I'm comfortable that I can approach 95% optimal or more given the pool table restriction.

A conversation with the AZB moderator, a lighting professional, also assured me that my ideas were correct.

You don't need to be a jerk, dude. I'm not going to go look at a ping pong table site nor do I care for your lame MP jokes. In the end, though Scott offered little advice but managed to do so in a gentle fashion, you offered absolutely none in a prick-ish way.

And y'all wonder why this forum is the least visited of the main three out there. Jeez.

Scott Lee
01-16-2006, 01:25 PM
CaptainHook...Figure about 5' on each side of the table (plus the table dimensions), to allow room for all shots.
13 1/2 x 17 for a 7' table. This does not allow for additional furniture, but is plenty of playing space.

Scott Lee

wolfdancer
01-16-2006, 01:48 PM
I'd guess that you visited the lighting store before you posted the question...left out the part about the dual use of the table....and after you put down all the suggestions.....now have your own solution.
I think it was lame.........and don't give a hoot about what you think.
We tried to answer your original question as best we could....and only got put down in return...
If these are the types of self-serving questions on the other sites....I'm glad I don't waste my time over there.
I'd guess though if you asked over there and omitted ping pong....you would have gotten similiar replies
I'm not sure they allow the your colorful name calling here, but I'll be glad to check for you.....
Why would you add more about your table lighting in this negative reply?????

iacas
01-16-2006, 02:02 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote wolfdancer:</font><hr>I'd guess that you visited the lighting store before you posted the question...<hr /></blockquote>

That's incorrect. If you'd like to call someone a liar, at least be direct about it. I visited the lighting store at about noon today AFTER someone from another forum called me. As I said, the AZB mod is a lighting professional. I got some ideas from him and then went to a store to check them out.

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote wolfdancer:</font><hr>left out the part about the dual use of the table....and after you put down all the suggestions.....now have your own solution.<hr /></blockquote>

I didn't "leave it out" so much as think it was not worth mentioning. The whole reason I had a question was because I could not use a traditional pool table light. Scott recalls previous posts from me on this topic (and the requirement to have a ping pong table light).

I didn't have a solution in mind. I had a general idea what I could do (given the limitations I was facing) and I wanted to know if it would work, and if not, what changes needed to be made.

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote wolfdancer:</font><hr>I'd guess though if you asked over there and omitted ping pong....you would have gotten similiar replies<hr /></blockquote>

The answers I've received at other sites, unlike any of yours, have been helpful. Additionally, ping pong was not omitted so much as it was deemed, in my first post, to be unimportant. I mentioned needing can lights and, again, simply didn't see the need to explain WHY I thought can lights would work. Excuuuuuuuuuuse me.

At any rate, thanks again to Scott for trying to help. Thanks to you, wolf, for... nothing.

A lot of people have lit their pool table, I've come to learn, without a pool table light and with ceiling lights. You're kidding yourself if you seem to think that a pool table light (one 30" or so from the surface) is the "only" way to go for home use.

iacas
01-16-2006, 02:05 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr> CaptainHook...Figure about 5' on each side of the table (plus the table dimensions), to allow room for all shots.
13 1/2 x 17 for a 7' table. This does not allow for additional furniture, but is plenty of playing space.<hr /></blockquote>

(In an attempt to get back on-topic, the off-topic happenstance being my own darn fault to begin with...)

A standard cue is 58". You need room to move the cue, too. So I figured 66" or so at a minimum.

Any furniture that is 32" or lower can be placed a little closer to the table so long as it does not interfere with your stance. And some people take an awfully wide stance, so, watch that too.

The corners may be the best place to put some furniture (chairs, etc.) if you have it, as the "playing area" (stance, cue, etc.) is not a true rectangle, but one with rounded corners.

CaptainHook
01-16-2006, 02:19 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr> CaptainHook...Figure about 5' on each side of the table (plus the table dimensions), to allow room for all shots.
13 1/2 x 17 for a 7' table. This does not allow for additional furniture, but is plenty of playing space.

Scott Lee <hr /></blockquote>

Thank you
I have a spare room. I will measure it tonight. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

CaptainHook
01-16-2006, 02:21 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote iacas:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott Lee:</font><hr> CaptainHook...Figure about 5' on each side of the table (plus the table dimensions), to allow room for all shots.
13 1/2 x 17 for a 7' table. This does not allow for additional furniture, but is plenty of playing space.<hr /></blockquote>

(In an attempt to get back on-topic, the off-topic happenstance being my own darn fault to begin with...)

A standard cue is 58". You need room to move the cue, too. So I figured 66" or so at a minimum.

Any furniture that is 32" or lower can be placed a little closer to the table so long as it does not interfere with your stance. And some people take an awfully wide stance, so, watch that too.

The corners may be the best place to put some furniture (chairs, etc.) if you have it, as the "playing area" (stance, cue, etc.) is not a true rectangle, but one with rounded corners. <hr /></blockquote>

Thank you.
I hope i have enough room. I will post the size after i measure it. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif

wolfdancer
01-16-2006, 02:38 PM
Eric, I never said it was the only way to go...I've seen several different types,worked on some, and did a bit of searching, before I settled on my own lighting.
One guy had high ceilings and track lites.....I didn't like the effect.
My preference is to have the lights focused on the table at the optimum level...for my money that's in the 30" range.
so my answer reflected my preferences......but for ping pong....it's of no use.....and you might have gotten more useful answers from table tennis players on how they lite their tables.

The best table lighting I've seen is Hollywood Billiards in LA, by the way

CaptainHook
01-17-2006, 06:11 AM
Well i measured the room last night, and it is 11'2" Wide
by 13'10" Long. Bummer it is just to small for a table. /ccboard/images/graemlins/frown.gif

iacas
01-17-2006, 08:01 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote CaptainHook:</font><hr> Well i measured the room last night, and it is 11'2" Wide
by 13'10" Long. Bummer it is just to small for a table. /ccboard/images/graemlins/frown.gif <hr /></blockquote>

Yeah, can't even make do with a 48" cue, which would be a really really short one. Bummer.

There are other pool games - bumper pool, etc. Or foosball.. or air hockey. Or, last option, if you have a basement...

CaptainHook
01-17-2006, 08:19 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote iacas:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote CaptainHook:</font><hr> Well i measured the room last night, and it is 11'2" Wide
by 13'10" Long. Bummer it is just to small for a table. /ccboard/images/graemlins/frown.gif <hr /></blockquote>

Yeah, can't even make do with a 48" cue, which would be a really really short one. Bummer.

There are other pool games - bumper pool, etc. Or foosball.. or air hockey. Or, last option, if you have a basement... <hr /></blockquote>

No basement here we live in Florida. Land of the sink holes. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Scott_The_Shot
01-18-2006, 12:26 AM
Well, Here are my plans. Old 4 1/2 x 9 Brunswick with "T" rails (outside dimensions a little smaller than a GC) Covered in Tournament Blue 860 Simonis. Diamond Billiards light for table, Drop ceiling with (2) 2x2 flourescent light fixtures on opposite sides of table (not on during play of course). VCT tile on floor. (Was gonna do carpet but decided I didn't want a "Bull Ring" forming around the table" in a room that is kind of shaped like a T, but the "play area" is 15 x 19' 6" with loads of extra room at head side of the table.
Now I have a question, anyone know what kind of extra support I am gonna need for the mammoth Diamond Light?

iacas
01-18-2006, 10:31 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Scott_The_Shot:</font><hr>Now I have a question, anyone know what kind of extra support I am gonna need for the mammoth Diamond Light?<hr /></blockquote>

How much does it weigh? Surely you can find a way to hook it to a rafter, even with the drop ceiling in there... Screw an eye bolt up into the rafter/beam. They make them pretty long now and most people's drop ceilings are only a few inches.