View Full Version : cue refinishing
02-09-2006, 11:27 AM
ok so i have this p.o.s. cue that was given to me a while ago. i drilled out the bottom and put a few weights in it. its nothing special but its better than a house cue. its nice and solid for breaking and hey, it was free. the only thing is its a little rough on the shaft. i used some 400 grit sandpaper on it and made it incredibly smooth, compared to how it was. what kind of oil or polyurathane could i use to seal it as its just bare wood now. something that will go on smooth and not require a huge amount of wet sanding
02-09-2006, 11:49 AM
You should have steamed the dents out 1st, with an iron & a fairly damp sock or wash cloth. Follow that by vigorous rubbing with dry paper towels, to bring the moisture to the surface & dry it. Follow that with 600, then 1000 & finally 1500 sandpaper(all dry). Then burnish the whole shaft by rubbing a dry paper towel or piece of leather. This presses all of the little wood fibers down. A shaft should not have a finish on it, as it will become sticky. If you feel you must have a sealer on it, wipe on a thin coat of shellac, let dry, sand LIGHTLY with 1000 grit & burnish...JER
02-09-2006, 12:33 PM
wow...thats a lot of info...didnt know there was that much into it. thanks
02-09-2006, 12:39 PM
wish i would have known before i started but oh well...its just a crappy cue. do you know anything about retiping one? what kind of glue should be used? and how long should you let it set up? i used one of those walmart kits that gives you some cheep elmers looking glue and a few crappy tips. i tried it once and the tip didnt last but a few days before falling off. what are the process for retipping? im not trying to make gold out of copper here but it is a good learning experience for me.
Thanks for the input,
02-09-2006, 04:06 PM
Hey Jay, since I don't imagine you have all sorts of fancy cue making equipment lying around or a lathe, you can cut the tip off(providing of course you have a tip on) with a razor blade then CAREFULLY sand the rest of the leather and glue off with a piece of very fine grit sand paper. You'll want to have the paper wrapped around something flat and make sure you are sanding flush with the ferral( you really really really don't want to round off the ends of the ferral). After that get some cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) preferably in a gel form. scuff up the bottom of the tip. I actually use a razor blade and put a criss cross pattern of shallow cuts across the bottom of the tip. then apply the glue to the tip and the ferral, press the tip down on the ferral and quickly wipe up the excess glue that gets squeezed out. Hold it down for about a minute then you can continue on to finish the tip sanding with fine grit till it's completely flush with the ferral..
personally if it was a good cue I'd just take it in to get the tip replaced. they have the equipment, do a better job, and it takes them no time at all.
02-13-2006, 11:26 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote BLACKHEART:</font><hr> You should have steamed the dents out 1st, with an iron & a fairly damp sock or wash cloth. Follow that by vigorous rubbing with dry paper towels, to bring the moisture to the surface & dry it. Follow that with 600, then 1000 & finally 1500 sandpaper(all dry). Then burnish the whole shaft by rubbing a dry paper towel or piece of leather. This presses all of the little wood fibers down. A shaft should not have a finish on it, as it will become sticky. If you feel you must have a sealer on it, wipe on a thin coat of shellac, let dry, sand LIGHTLY with 1000 grit & burnish...JER <hr /></blockquote>
thanks...burnish? i have some leather...how do i burnish something...im stupid. thanks again.
02-13-2006, 10:37 PM
a shaft is made out of wood as you know .therefor it is required to have some type of a protectant on it..i have gone to an automotive body supply shop and they mix paints for me.. for the shaft i would recommend the polyurethane clear for the newer Chevy Corvettes ..it is extremely durable ..works great.
02-14-2006, 10:08 AM
so i aply a thin layer of polyurathane then what? fine sand? wet sand? i have access to a lathe, should i just put it on there and buff it out with leather? like i said earlier it is a crappy stick so this is more or less a learning experience.
02-14-2006, 06:10 PM
DO NOT apply a clear coat finish to your shaft. People who have a finish on their shaft, are the same people that still have the price tag sticker, on the butt of their Q six months after they bought it. A clear coat, will become sticky with use.. After sanding down to 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper, burnish with a piece of leather & LEAVE IT ALONE. The natural moisture from your hands, will eventually form a natural sealer on the shaft. That's all you need...JER
Blackheart has already told you the correct way to finish your shaft. Leave it clean and bare.
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