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Drop1
02-14-2006, 12:14 PM
Are there some timing shot drills,I could practice? Now everyone who reads my posts,know that I have been working on draw shots,well the results of what I have been told have been fantastic. I can now draw the cue ball back 3/4 of the table. Thanks y'all /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Rod
02-14-2006, 11:31 PM
What do you mean by timing shots? You can shoot wing shots, those require you have excellent timing. A wing shot is rolling the o/b ball down table then shooting it in with the c/b. You hold both balls in one hand but only let go of the o/b then shoot the c/b from there. There fun and a good workout if the pace is fast. Of course that assumes your making the balls. The one ball is rolling. More of this type of shot?

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Rod

Billy_Bob
02-15-2006, 07:38 AM
As I recall, the book 99 critical shots has a timed shot in it. This is where the CB hits the OB or a cluster, then again hits the OB to make it into the pocket.

So far as draw, good work! I knew you would get it. It takes a lot of practice. Now the thing to do is practice being able to draw back just 1 diamond, 2, 3, etc. Being able to do this will give you a big advantage.

I get my most consistent draw by always having a tip with the same surface condition (lightly sand with sandpaper shaper once a week) and same radius (nickel/dime), and always applying chalk, especially around sides of tip before each draw shot.

Also after practicing drawing back the cue ball different distances, practice *following* the cue ball different distances. This is quite easy - follow through with stroke.

You can do a lot by being able to draw back a specific distance or follow a specific distance.

The_Doctor
02-15-2006, 08:10 AM
I understood timing of a shot to refer to the degree of acceleration of cue speed at tip contact with the cue ball. i.e. a well timed shot would be one where the cue is undergoing maximal acceleration at the point of contact. Supposedly this means that the tip is in contact with the cue ball for fractionally longer, therefore applying more force to the cue ball creating more spin for a given cue speed. It was a question I was thinking of asking actually, given that the tip is in touch with the cue ball for such a short time would it being in touch fractionally longer actually make a difference to the amount a spin generated?

Andy.

jtlabs
02-18-2006, 05:15 PM
Congratulations on the draw! I can draw it one diamond, 2 diamond, and 3 diamonds, when it gets to 4 I can not get any draw yet. However, I switched cues recently.. one low end cue to another(got a scorpion for Xmas.. not great but u know what they say.. its the operator) and it been 2 weeks since I returned to the table(just 2 days ago). As a result, I feel I have to start all over in the draw arena. I just read some new techniques on it so I will try it when I go to practice on Monday. I want to practice drawing at all speeds. Thank god I found a pool hall that has all day tables for $10.00.
/ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Billy_Bob
02-19-2006, 11:39 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote jtlabs:</font><hr> ...I switched cues recently.. one low end cue to another(got a scorpion for Xmas.. not great but u know what they say.. its the operator) and it been 2 weeks since I returned to the table(just 2 days ago). As a result, I feel I have to start all over in the draw arena....<hr /></blockquote>

Here I go getting into trouble again! Anyway *I* feel that different tips will draw differently. Perhaps I should say that tips in a different "condition" will hold chalk differently.

And you will get different *distance* draw back with different shaped tips (nickel/dime).

I firmly believe that it is *best* to *always* play with the same brand/type of tip, same hardness of tip, same shape of tip (nickel, dime), a tip which has the same surface condition, and the same amount of chalk applied.

So I always use a Moori Q (hard) dime shaped tip. I only lightly sand it with a dime shaped sandpaper shaper once a week, and I always chalk well [especially around sides of tip] before each draw shot. I never tip tap.

So I am always shooting draw shots with a tip which is exactly the same.

Then I practiced draw shots for about a year. Drawing back various distances. And I can now do this at will. I feel it is the consistant tip I am using plus a year of practice always using that same *exact* tip which has helped me to be able to draw back a specific distance.

And I can get a new cue. Then place the same specification tip on that new cue, then so long as the cue is the same weight, I can draw with the same consistancy - an exact distance.

But give me a house cue with a quarter shaped tip which will not hold chalk - then no telling how far back I will draw the ball. It is a different shaped tip, different hardness, and holds chalk differently (not very well). I may draw back 6 inches instead of a foot and a half for example.

So I feel you will be more consistant if you pick a brand/hardness of tip and a shape (nickel/dime), then stick with that. The first thing I do when I get a new shaft is cut off the tip which came with it and install *my* tip!

What brand/hardness/shape was your old tip?
What brand/hardness/shape is your new tip?

If you don't know, this is not good...

jtlabs
02-19-2006, 05:03 PM
Very good point Bob. Their both hard leather quarter shaped tips. Question about dime shaped tip, do you find you get better spin action on the ball with that shape? I will probably get a Moori tip as well put on the Scorpion, just so I can eliminate another variable in my game. I am always all ears and open to suggestions.:)

BTW, what your saying makes a lot of sense to me, but to play devils advocate, is their anyone that can draw with consistency and does not sand and shape their tip?

Regards,
Jay

Billy_Bob
02-20-2006, 09:35 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote jtlabs:</font><hr>...Question about dime shaped tip, do you find you get better spin action on the ball with that shape?...

...is their anyone that can draw with consistency and does not sand and shape their tip?...<hr /></blockquote>

Someone on one of the forums, I think it was an instructor, said that he used many different cues each day while instructing. And could switch back and forth and get good results from any cue. So I guess it is like playing on different sized tables, if you play enough with different cues, you can get to where one will work as good and any other for you.

I will say this though. There is a force follow shot with a ball in each far corner pocket. You shoot in one ball then the forward rolling ball keeps (curves) along the far rail and pockets the ball in the other corner pocket.

Other players can not shoot this shot no matter how much they try. And if my tip is a bit slick, I can't get the forward roll I need. (This is with an older cue ball BTW.) BUT if I lightly sand my tip, then I can make this shot! I can not make this shot with a house cue which has a slick tip.

And with a force follow shot, you are getting the CB to roll forward faster than the ball is moving forward. (Opposite of draw.)

So far as a dime shaped tip and english, the test is to shoot straight to the far center diamond with maximum english and see how wide of an angle you can get when it comes back off the rail. I don't see a whole lot of difference between nickel and dime. I do see a bit wider angle (more english) with a very soft tip like elk master though. But a very soft tip will not keep its shape and that is why I use a hard tip. So it will keep its dime shape longer and the tip will last longer because it does not need reshaping as often.

Now with everything I said in mind, I was playing a very good player last night and he was showing me some "power english" shots. He said he "did not like my dime shaped tip" and said he "got more english with his more flat tip"! His tip was quarter shaped. So maybe to each his own?

I don't usually shoot excessively hard shots, so I don't have much experience with various tips (tip shapes) and hard shots. So I don't know about this.

I would suggest experimenting with different hardness of tips, different brands, and different tip shapes. Then use what works best for you. But I think sticking with the same brand, hardness, and tip shape (whatever it is) will make for more consistent play.