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View Full Version : My new cue, and question.



KwwFuryNr08
03-20-2006, 11:02 PM
Hey everyone, I'm Kendall and I'm new to the site. I am not a great pool player but have a great love of the game and look foward to bettering myself. I just bought my 3rd cue...the other two were Walmart junk. It's a Fury NR08. I love it and it hits great. I was wondering if anyone has heard anything good about it or the NR series in general. Also, what is the best way to keep it clean? I have noticed that it gets like grime or dirt stuff on it. I have seen the "shaft slicker" but I dont know how it is. I really dont want to "sand" down my shaft where it makes it skinnier and what not. Anyways, any advice or comments would be great. Thanks in advance.
Kendall

pooltchr
03-21-2006, 06:27 AM
The Fury NR series are some very nice cues. It happens to be the choice of Kelly "Kwik Fire" Fisher, one of the top WPBA Pros.
As for keeping it clean, the best thing you can do is keep your hands clean when you are playing. I usually keep a hand towel near by and wipe down my shaft between games. That prevents the chalk dust and oils from your hands from building up on the cue.
Steve

Rich R.
03-21-2006, 09:26 AM
I have an NR-9 that I won.
I'm not particularly happy with it. At first I thought it was the tip, but after greatly upgrading the tip, it still doesn't have a good feel to me.

"Different strokes for different folks." /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I just keep it in a rack and use it as a house cue.

KwwFuryNr08
03-21-2006, 10:26 AM
cool, thanks guys, i guess the cue you use is more of preference, whatever kind of hit you like, as for me i love my fury. anyways thanks again for the advice. do u know if any of the brand name stuff is good like...Q slick, Q silk, and so on?

bsmutz
03-21-2006, 11:12 AM
Use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser to clean the shaft and ferrule periodically. In between and after the Magic Eraser, use whatever kind of slicker you want. I happen to use Zaino Brothers quick detailer for cars since I have a bunch left over after getting rid of my car collection. Any of the slickers should work okay. Just too expensive for such a tiny amount for me. Some like to wear a glove so they don't need to use a slicker. Just personal preference really. Go to an auto paint store and get some 1500 or 2000 grit sand paper in case of small dents or surface imperfections. I know any little drag or bump is annoying enough for me to throw off my concentration. Buff with a clean cloth or a piece of undyed leather until warm after applying whatever kind of slicker you use to dry the wood out and help seal it.

Snapshot9
03-21-2006, 11:20 AM
CueSlic is suppose to be real good, but at $30 for both the cleaner and conditioner, I think it is too expensive.
I use 'Orange' (Kroger product) to clean my shaft and ferrule, all natural. I then apply 'Pledge' to a paper towel and use it on my shaft to condition and help make it slick.
I do this on a regular basis, usually before every tournament
I play in, including weekly tournaments.
I have been playing 44 years, and it works for me.

BTW, my cuemaker, here in my city, told me you should never use sandpaper, scratchies, etc. for you shaft, only use a
chemical cleaner, and one that will not damage the wood, and
only a 'polish', not wax, or any other type of conditioner.
That is because of the way wood reacts to these things.

Rich R.
03-21-2006, 11:32 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote KwwFuryNr08:</font><hr>do u know if any of the brand name stuff is good like...Q slick, Q silk, and so on? <hr /></blockquote>I don't use anything but a damp paper towel to clean my shafts, followed by a dry paper towel. Some other products may get them cleaner, but a slight bit of color from chalk getting into the wood pours doesn't bother me, as long as the shaft feels clean and smooth. Actually, some products will attract dirt. I don't like waxes or sealers on the shaft. JMHO.

As needed, I use a product called the "Q-Wiz", which has a very fine abrasive on one side and you can burnish you cue with the other side. It is also washable and reusable.

smfsrca
03-21-2006, 11:33 AM
Pledge Wipes. 18 Pre-moistened furniture polish wipes.
$5.00

bluey2king
03-21-2006, 12:10 PM
I have started using Chalk Off on my cue shaft. WOW does it ever pick up the dirt and chalk!! I think it works on a static electricity. Oh yeah I use a nice soft and plush micro fiber towel. I did after seeing what a good job it does on my wood rails of my table.

OldieToo
03-21-2006, 04:51 PM
I use denatured alchohol and paper towels. I wipe everything with the alchohol, then lightly sand the shafts with 2000grit paper. I then use a nice quality wax, like Meguires Pure Carnuba for the bottom half. I use nothing on the leather wrap or linen wraps after alchohol. I then always reshape to a dime radius the tips and burnish them with a Ulti-Mate tip tool.

Been doing this every few months for about 20 years with about .1mm is shaft thickness reduction in 20 years on one cue...and unmeasureable on the others.

8ball
03-21-2006, 07:39 PM
I only use denatured alchohol to clean my shaft. Then I'll use a glass tube to shine it up and smooth out any small dents followed by burnishing with undyed leather. That keeps my shaft looking as good as new and plenty slick enough for me.

mikeindayton
03-21-2006, 08:58 PM
Hi Kendall, I'm new to the forum also. I have no idea about the Fury cues, I shoot with Predator(switching from Mucci) and for about the past 10 years I have been using HOT!!!! water from the sink directly on the part of the shaft with the dent or ding in it and I am amazed every time because it pulls the dents completely out without harming the shaft. (amazing) Just run it under the water for a min. or two and dry the shaft and wala! I wouldn't suggest getting the tip and ferrul hot and wet just because of the glues used to hold them may let go, but as far as the rest of the shaft it workes like a charm. /ccboard/images/graemlins/wink.gif I do not use any abrasives to slick the shaft, I use Q-slick or Mcguires car polish, and to clean it I use Q-clean . The polish also hels clean it and keep it clean. Washing your hands everyonce in a while really helps to.

Hope this helps!!!!
Mike /ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif

KwwFuryNr08
03-21-2006, 10:49 PM
Cool, thanks guys. I have one more question that is gonna sound really really stupid. The graphics (not the inlays) on some of the butt are like off and dont look perfect....i paid 176 for the cue and i hate that it is off....i dont want to go back to the hall i bought it from and look stupid and like a jerk....what should i do?

mikeindayton
03-22-2006, 01:10 AM
To be honest I feel that if you took it back you would not get money back or even an exchange /ccboard/images/graemlins/mad.gif. For $176 that is probably what you are going to get, you get what you pay for. I wouldn't worry about it unless it really bothers you, and if it does maybe go to a different cue or higher $ amount. To me craftsmanship is very important it tells the quality of cue you have and shows me that people making the cue care about thier work, in return i know i have a cue that is made precise and it is quality. Problem being it may not shoot any better but i guess it is a piece of mind. This is just my oppinion.

bsmutz
03-22-2006, 11:09 AM
Take it back and exchange it. You shouldn't feel like a jerk taking something that expensive back because it doesn't look right. I have 4 cues that I paid less than that for and they all look uniform and right. One even has a bunch of inlays that all look perfect. Just explain to them that you didn't realize how far off it was when you bought it and that you would like to exchange it or get your money back to get one that is satisfactory. GL