View Full Version : Healing/Polishing out a Finish Scratch

07-05-2002, 08:39 AM
Question for Q-guy, Blackheart, TonyM etc.

I've got a great looking ebony South West that I want to keep rather than sell and it has a very fine, very light scratch on the forearm that is in the finish only.

Can I polish this out myself? What agent do I use and what tool would be best? Hand polish it, auto buffer, drill with buffing pad, Dremmell Tool??? None of the above???

Just trying to avoid the hassle of sending the cue away or driving a couple hours each way for such a minimal scratch.

Thanks for your help.

07-05-2002, 04:26 PM
I think my question got buried before it had a chance in life so I bumped it back to the top. Selfish as hell of me I know. Tough..... /ccboard/images/icons/smile.gif

07-05-2002, 08:31 PM
Jim.. have you tried using a very fine grade of sand paper.. like 2000 grit?

07-06-2002, 12:35 AM
jim you can use just regular rubbing compound for cars if thats not enough wet sand it with 2500 grit sand paper then apply the rubbing compound... I had my forearm refinnished but the guy shipped it back to me before it was complately dry this left a fog on my finnish and this is how i got it all out... you will lose a slight amount of luster on your finnish but not enough to worry about.

07-06-2002, 02:19 AM
> You could try one of those 3-sided nail BUFFERS,not an emery board,to polish it out. These usually have a half-white/half pink-orange side,and a dark gray side. These are roughly equivalent of 2400,4000,and 12000,respectively,and impart an incredible shine to fingernails,shafts,ferrules,and anything else you can think of that can be polished. Add a couple coats of your favorite wax,and the finish can be completely repaired,if used properly and carefully. This is not a gimmick,and just about all the high end guitar builders use these and similar products. In fact,Micro-mesh.com sells these exact nail buffers,although in different colors,along with the shaft finishing kit that is now on sale at Atlas Billiard Supply. Tommy D.

07-06-2002, 07:33 AM
I haven't tried anything yet Tom. I'm worried that I'll screw it up unless I know that what I'm doing is recommended by someone knowledgeable and that I ain't!

Taking ideas and sifting.....thanks!

07-06-2002, 07:43 AM
If that's the case.. then I would recommend taking your cue to a reliable cue maker/repair person.. and good luck..
Personally, I wouldn't take any chances with a good cue and my in-experience..

07-06-2002, 08:12 AM
That's been my thought too Tom but Blackheart is the closest and he's about 1.5 hours away. Maybe that's not so far when I consider how thoroughly I could screw it up on my own...lolol.

07-06-2002, 08:29 AM
Good point.. and with a call, maybe he will be able to fix it while you wait... never hurts to ask..
Good luck..

07-06-2002, 10:01 AM
I wnet to www.micro-mesh.com/ (http://www.micro-mesh.com/) <> just a reserved name; and www.micromesh.com/ (http://www.micromesh.com/), a software company? What's the correct url?

07-06-2002, 12:16 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: Tom_In_Cincy:</font><hr> Personally, I wouldn't take any chances with a good cue and my in-experience.. <hr></blockquote>

finally the truth comes out tom

07-07-2002, 10:24 AM
I'm shamelessly bumping this back to the top!

07-07-2002, 02:51 PM
I think that I posted a reply to this on another thread Jim.

Short form:

Yes you can polish out a scratch. Try using the same rubbing compound that Southwest uses (it's a Meguire's show car polish - phone Laurie F. for the full name and source) and try that first. If the scratch is too deep to simply rub out, then get yourself some superfine polishing abrasive films like "Micromesh" (Lee Valley carry a set designed to polish out scratches from acrylic windows). In the Micromesh set is both the films (to 4000 grit!), polishing compound, a rubber pad (useful to prevent creating waves in the surface from hand sanding) and a little booklet that describes the full process better than I can here.

That should get you started, and no, I do not reccommend using any power assisted tools for the job. You are better off to do it by hand, as you can take your time and stop before you have, well, let's just say before you have to call Laurie in a panic! Lol!

Good luck.


07-07-2002, 05:02 PM
&gt; The correct URL for the company that makes "Micro-Mesh" is www.micro-surface.com. (http://www.micro-surface.com.) Just look around on there until you find the product you are looking for. Another source for these products is Atlas Billiard Supply or Stewart-McDonald Guitar Shop Supply at www.stewmac.com. (http://www.stewmac.com.) They also carry a rather vast selection of polishing/buffing supplies,as guitar builders have been doing these repairs a lot longer than most cuemakers,and are generally a lot better at it. Tommy D.

07-07-2002, 05:04 PM

07-07-2002, 06:54 PM
HI JIM; sorry that I didn't notice this post before, but I was learning how to be ignorant to other posters, by keeping up with the "bad Talisman" question.
If what you have is truely a shallow scratch, you might try 1500 wet/dry sandpaper. Be careful not to get anything on your wrap area. Use the sandpaper wet by just dipping it in water &amp; rubbing the scratched area. Wipe it, with a paper towel, til it's dry &amp; polish with Meguiar's #5("NEW CAR GLAZE QUICK POLISH). If you sand or rub too much in one spot you'll create a "flat spot". What I do to avoid that is to sand the spot with about 5 strokes then the surronding area with 2 or 3 longer strokes. Keep the polish off of your shaft too, because it will darken it. Glad to help &amp; I didn't even call you a name or correct your grammer...JER