View Full Version : disassemble pool table to move
11-13-2006, 07:06 PM
I have purchased an older brunswick 4.5x9 and am going to get it moved this week. I called a shop to do this for me but the price to take apart move and reassemble was 400.00, I paid just over that for the table. I know the slates must be carefully moved and they will be . Is there any tips you can give me before attempting this move? I will have plenty of help and no alcohol.....Any tips?............Joe
11-14-2006, 12:48 AM
Post this on the main forum for better results.
11-14-2006, 03:55 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote l79m20:</font><hr>I will have plenty of help and no alcohol
You have the most important points covered.
Take every step slowly and think things out before you lift anything. Those slates are heavy and awkward to handle.
I think there are preferred ways to transport the slate, but I'm not sure. I think it is better to have them on edge. Hopefully, someone else will come in with that information.
12-29-2006, 02:50 PM
This depends on how the table is built. You may find that there's more to it that just taking it apart and moving it. How many pieces of slate are there? If it's two or three-piece slate (probably) you will also have to shim/level the slate, wax the seams, and refelt the table when you put it back together. The $400 is fair, from my experience, and well worth it if you don't know what you're doing.
NOTE: Professional installers also have insurance, so if they damage the table during the move, you're covered. If you drop a piece of slate, you're out several hundred dollars for a new set anyway.
Update: Slate is transported laying flat on a pallet. Stacked, if there's multiple pieces.
01-22-2007, 12:24 PM
What I did was take pictures of every step of the way during the disassembly that made it much easier to set back up. Make sure you transport the slate laying flat and preferably padded. Good luck
05-04-2007, 03:30 PM
I have moved and recovered my 8' Olhausen 3 piece slate table 3 times now. It is not difficult but there are some right and wrong ways. Also, I'm a bit picky about the levelness and after a couple moves I think I can do better than the faster but less attentive people who need to actually make money at this. Multiply by about 4 the time it will take you to do it yourself vs them.
Take the table apart. Not knowing how yours is together I can't say how to do this. Bolts, through the slate, into the rails, dissassable.
Figure out the placement where you want it where you are going to move it. Take care to get this right as you don't really want to be moving a fully assembled table around. IT;s better to get it right the first time.
Assemble the legs and box. Level the box before adding any slate. Use as good a level as you can get your hands on. A 6" torpedo level is not a good level. You can buy an ok 4' level at most hardware stores for not too much. BUt start out with leveling the box. This may require you to put shims under the legs. I use playing cards. We did this at a friend of mines who has a slab. His slab was very unlevel. We used over two decs of playing cards to get a level. There are probably better shims than playing cards. anyway, level the box. Now add the slate. I assume you have three piece slate. No one trained me how to do this so this is just how I did it and that may be wrong. Sort of lay up your slate and see how level they are. Pick one to start with. Possibly the middle one. Screw it down tight. To check level clean the slate off and set your cue ball on it. This is a very tough test by the way. If the ball rolls then the slate is not level. This is probably a lott tougher test than is necessary but if you can dial it in so the ball does not roll on bare slate you are gonna have a really flat set up. To flatten the slates you need to shim under them. I shim nest to the bolts otherwise you might induce a bending moment on the slate when you bolt it. a
Add one of the end slates and butt it up as best you can to the middle slate. That seem across needs to be tight and level. Work the bolts and level checks and shimming iteratively until you are happy with the level for all slate pieces.
Now you have to fill in the seams and the bolt holes if there are any on the playing surface. Some on the edges may actually be under the rails and so may not matter. I have always use plaster of paris but it is a pain. I understand that you can use a kind of wax that you melt into the cracks. What ever you use you have to sand smooth or scrape smooth with a flat scraper or whatever. I will use wax next time as it sets up quick and is probably not likely to crack and spall out in clumps over time. Plaster taks time to dry. bulges or sinks if applied to thick. is harder to control the amount. Is very dusty to sand and is generally a pain. Try the wax.
NExt add the rails. You will need to make the rails parallel to each other, the right width apart and have square corners. You'mm need a large triangle, a measuing tape or two and some patience. Work your way around the table however it makes sense and adjust all this. Set the parallel and the corners and adjust and nudge and so on until you are ready to snug it down. Triple check before securing. Oops. Yeah you should probably coaver the slate before applying rails.
Covering the slate. I saw something on line about the sequence for this which is rather non-intuitive. Find that. I have seen them spray adhesive applied but don't put spray glue on the playing surface. Mine is stapled all around under the table. This is a pain to assemble and to take apart. My only real advice here it that tight is critical. And I mean Tight. You may almost need to make it tear the cloth tight or something short of that. Be careful. But you don't want loos cloth bumps on your table. I have simonis and I have never gotten the slippery speed I want because I just haven't gotten it tight enough. I think how tight depends on the cloth type.
Well that is my amateur experience. Some of this may help but I suspect there is someone out there that really knows how to do this. I would keep searching personally for more info than what I have given.
10-16-2007, 09:32 PM
I know this is an old thread, but I figured I'd throw in my two cents for people searching.
As far as transporting the slates, you want to stack them flat on top of each other. You want to put two 2x4's (or equivalent)underneath them long ways. Don't use 3 or more. You want the weight to be evenly distributed, and if there are 3 supports, then the weight most likely wont be distributed evenly across all 3 supports. Also, i suggest that you don't put padding between the slates because 1. it makes it easier for the slates to slide, 2. it may cause weight of the slate to distribute unevenly, depending on the thickness of the pad.
Lastly, make sure the slate is secured. If you're using a truck, just make sure the slate is butted up against the front of the bed. If you don't have any padding between the slates, you don't have to worry about putting anything behind them. you cant accelerate fast enough to make them slide backward. But make sure they're secured side to side.
10-17-2007, 12:48 PM
I have a Suggestion.
Pay to have it done right. You will be happy you did. If you crack a slate, Lose a piece or damage something you will pay 5 times that for a new table.
I tried to move a table once to sve $450. By the time it was built correctly and level it cost me almost $900 in other charges.
Not worth it to save a meare $400. Pay and get it done right but make sure the people are insured.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2015 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.