View Full Version : The Z2 conundrum

12-24-2006, 07:27 AM
Ok, weigh in here, got the z2 as a Christmas gift, 14 inch pro taper...11.75 diameter. Accuracy is down 50 percent at the moment...love the added English it puts on the CB...{another dilemma!}I've become Mr. hit everything too thin again, like the early days. It seems that in the end it will refine my CB striking, love the pro taper...so lightweight...Bill Staton mentioned that Dallas West advised playing with the lightest cue to gain a true straight stroke before shifting to a heavier weight...any of you run into this situation?

12-24-2006, 02:28 PM
Looks to me like u need a very tapered stick, koz u dont see straight. Hence, a parallel taper iz poizon for u. Here's what i have done in the past.

To get the best of both worlds, ie a parallel taper with a tapered effect, i put a few bits of paper in one side of the join, to put a dogleg into the cue. Then i play with the dogleg to the right -- bingo.

Funny thing, i allso got good rezults by holding the dogleg to the left. Different set of factors help here, but i wont go into them here. But if i remember correctly, the qball tended to get some unwanted sidespin here, so dogleg to the right was better for me.

Might be best to find a Z2 with a bad bend. Here the bend shood be mostly halfway between the join and the tip. Dont get ripped off by buying one with most of the bend very close to the tip.

Dont try to bend your Z2 by uzing weights etc for a week (or a month even), good cues straighten up over night -- a cheap cue might stay bent ok. madMac.

12-25-2006, 12:54 PM
Ummm..... the 314/2 is the shaft with a protaper The Z/2 has a strong taper, more suited for Europin players snooker cues. I have the 314/2 but I play 8 and 9 ball. My buddy has the Z/2 and he loves it. But when I play with it the cue ball looks to big and my aim is off also I just dont like smaller tip. also what is you tip shap that could make a diff from your old shaft.

12-25-2006, 12:57 PM
Why pay $300 to bend one of the best shafts made?

12-25-2006, 03:38 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote canadan:</font><hr> Why pay $300 to bend one of the best shafts made? <hr /></blockquote>
With my 2-piece cues, i didnt havta bend any woodwork, i simply uzed some paper to put a temporary dogleg at the join -- and experimented with a little or a lot of dogleg -- and experimented with uzing the cue with the dogleg left or right or somewhere in between.

But, it just occurred to me, i uze an open-vee for my bridge hand -- and, i have the vee leaning over to the right az much az possible (it haz a small natural lean, but i maximize it, and i am right-handed). So, if dutchboy uzes a loop-bridge, then it iznt going to have az much effect az my leaning-vee -- unless he uzes a bit of sidewayz pressure on the cue, to press it against the left or right side of the loop (i allso do this with my leaning-vee, to get even more effect).

I did bend my Duferin (maple) one piece, uzing 2 bricks, for 1 month, but it straightened out dead straight again within 1 week. Best cue i ever saw, cost me $32 new, pity it had a parallel taper, stuffed up my billiards for 10 years i reckon. Recently, i had a hit with a Predator (parallel taper) that i borrowed from a pool buddy -- it played like my old Duferin -- terrible -- all my shots went left, and the qball allwayz had (left) side-spin.

If u are correct, if the Z2 is not a pro-taper, then obviously dutchboy iz enjoying more spin etc koz of the small tip. But, even so, perhaps my suggestion to uze a bent cue still holds good, ie it might help someone who needs a pro-taper but is uzing a cue with a strong-taper, dont know. I allways beleeved that if your eyesight iz bent, then u need a cue that iz bent -- but this (law) might only apply to players who shoot straighter with a strong-taper.

Additional Note -- If a player iz playing better by uzing a stronger-taper, they might go even better if they do the "bending" thing, and the "leaning-vee" thing, and the "press-left" (or right) thing. madMac.

12-25-2006, 05:08 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote dutchboy:</font><hr> ...Bill Staton mentioned that Dallas West advised playing with the lightest cue to gain a true straight stroke before shifting to a heavier weight...any of you run into this situation? <hr /></blockquote>
I had a billiards mate who used a big fat heavy american pool cue for his first praktis session every year -- he reckoned that it got him cueing straighter sooner. After that he would go back to his english billiards cue.

I reckon that a light whippy cue would mostly magnify faulty cueing most of the time, perhaps too much so. When i am checking a mates cueing, i get him to uze one of my thick heavy stiff cues -- this tends to give a more honest indication of a player's cueing -- but here i am talking about uzing it for 10 minutes of testing only (whereas u are talking about using a light cue full-time).

The stiffest cue that i have (by a long way) is a steel cue, probably from about 1966, and i sometimes drag this out for the tests, even tho it only weighs 15.5oz. I guess that they went out of bizness koz the cues were just too too stiff. They ended up by making 2-piece (steel) cues, and incorporating a soft flexible joint to try to get back some "give" and "feel" and "action" -- but they still didnt sell anyhow. madMac.