View Full Version : Cue Care
02-09-2007, 05:33 PM
I just bought a Mcdermott cue. I have had an Eliminator cue for about 4 year - the Eliminator's shaft, like Cuetec shafts, is maple bonded to clear fiberglass. Not so with the Mcdermott.
I have been using a hard paste Carnuba wax (cue wax) on my Eliminator cue to keep the shaft slick amd butt looking good. About every two or three months I'd wash the cue with a small amount of handsoap on a washrag and then dry it thoroughly. I'd then apply a small amount of wax to the shaft and butt and burnish it with a soft clean washcloth. The cuestick looks brand new and as straight as a new one. I never use hand chalk or talc.
When I receive my Mcdermott cue should I wax the shaft and butt and follow the above maintenance schedule? Should I just wax the butt and not wax the shaft? Any pros or cons?
02-11-2007, 07:56 AM
Wax will make the wooden shaft sticky. On the Qs I make, I recommend using Pledge, sprayed on a soft paper towel. This is for the painted parts only. As far as the shaft goes when you go to the bathroom bring back a SLIGHTLY damp towel & vigerously rub down the shaft. If the inside of your case is full of chalk, your shaft will be too. Wipe the excess chalk off of the tip, before you put the Q away. To clean the shaft use a piece of "MAGIC ERASER" with rubbing alcohol. Rub with the grain. When you're done rub vigerously with a dry towel. To clean the chalk off of the ferrule, use toothpast...JER
02-11-2007, 09:33 AM
A McDermott shaft should come to you in pretty good shape. If you really want to make it right, polish it with 2000 to 2500 sandpaper, available from an auto parts store, and follow with a leather burnish. There are also finer grades available up to 12000 grit. I use 8000 as a final polish. No wax or treatments are needed when you get it that smooth, just a regular wipe with a cloth lightly dampened with alcohol.
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote BillyJack:</font><hr> A McDermott shaft should come to you in pretty good shape. If you really want to make it right, polish it with 2000 to 2500 sandpaper, available from an auto parts store, and follow with a leather burnish. There are also finer grades available up to 12000 grit. I use 8000 as a final polish. No wax or treatments are needed when you get it that smooth, just a regular wipe with a cloth lightly dampened with alcohol. <hr /></blockquote>
This is called burnishing.
Whenever I play I like to wipe the shaft off with a slightly damp paper or cloth towel and then burnish with a piece of leather or the 8000 grit micro mesh polishing cloth.
It the shaft gets dirty then the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is just fantastic. Wipe the cue with the Magic Eraser and alcohol and then burnish.
Burnish means to wrap the leather/mesh around the shaft and rub the shaft very vigorously until you can feel some heat. This sort of seals the shaft and will make it shine and be very slick.
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