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View Full Version : How do you get a good, tight rack?



BRussell
02-13-2007, 12:57 PM
1) What are the best ways to obtain a good rack - pushing, squeezing, rolling, etc.?

2) What factors do you think most contribute to problems racking - the triangle, the table, balls, etc.?

(All jokes about getting implants will be ignored. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )

underdog
02-13-2007, 04:19 PM
I was tought to roll, but whatever "works for the cloth" is what I will do. I basically rack to barely ahead of where the front ball sits "naturally" so it will sort of roll back into the pack.

Deeman3
02-13-2007, 04:25 PM
My wife says, "Exercise, watch your weight and never go without a bra."

DeeMan

pooltchr
02-13-2007, 06:55 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Deeman3:</font><hr> My wife says, "Exercise, watch your weight and never go without a bra."

DeeMan <hr /></blockquote>
Either that or implants!!! /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
(oops, guess I will be ignored for that one, but someone had to say it!!!)
Steve

Stretch
02-13-2007, 07:37 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote BRussell:</font><hr> 1) What are the best ways to obtain a good rack - pushing, squeezing, rolling, etc.?

2) What factors do you think most contribute to problems racking - the triangle, the table, balls, etc.?

(All jokes about getting implants will be ignored. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif ) <hr /></blockquote>

Well first you need a good quality triangle. If not you just have to do the best you can by rolling them forward into position and stop. They should lock together that way, if not you can often spin the back row balls forward where they sit to lock the pack in. If the head ball keeps falling ahead, move the rest up to meet it till you find a spot that holds. St.

rangoonkid
02-13-2007, 08:52 PM

Scott Lee
02-13-2007, 10:35 PM
Hey Larry...Remember the sh*t storm you had in your face with Eric, a few years ago at VF? Just so you know, Dee has a good 75+ lbs on Eric, and is MUCH taller! You don't really want to meet up with him in a dark alley! Actually he's just a big teddy bear...no really! /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Scott Lee

BRussell
02-16-2007, 10:55 AM
Thanks for your responses (well some of them, but I guess I invited it :P ).

What do you do if you just can't get a good rack on a particular table? Some tables I seriously can't seem to ever, ever get a good rack. Any tips?

Bob_Jewett
02-16-2007, 11:54 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote BRussell:</font><hr> Thanks for your responses (well some of them, but I guess I invited it :P ).

What do you do if you just can't get a good rack on a particular table? Some tables I seriously can't seem to ever, ever get a good rack. Any tips? <hr /></blockquote>
For a new table, you can train the table like they do for the Sardo and at the Mosconi Cup and at the World Championships.

You need to tap the balls into the correct positions. This requires a template which I've described in a BD article and made available on-line (see the misc links at www.sfbilliards.com (http://www.sfbilliards.com)). As mentioned above, you also need a good triangle. It needs to be solid and have straight sides at 60-degree angles. Many triangles are worse than useless. I believe that the "official" tapping technique has you wet the spot that is to be tapped. The template should have holes slightly closer than the diameters of the balls being used.

If you cannot get a good rack on old cloth, try racking at the other end of the table. Also, try a new set of balls, since balls in an old set are likely to be of varying sizes.

GKH
02-16-2007, 01:01 PM
If my Sardo M-5000 ever arrives; I'll let you know! /ccboard/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif

bradb
02-16-2007, 03:22 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote BRussell:</font><hr> 1) What are the best ways to obtain a good rack - pushing, squeezing, rolling, etc.?

2) What factors do you think most contribute to problems racking - the triangle, the table, balls, etc.?

(All jokes about getting implants will be ignored. /ccboard/images/graemlins/tongue.gif ) <hr /></blockquote>


What I do when I have to ref Snooker is: push tight against top of rack, then use another extra ball to tap lead ball into felt. If corner balls drift tap then also. Slowly push tri angle ahead and up. If you have an old extra ball that will do.

No jokes here, its gotten pretty old by now eh? /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Snapshot9
02-17-2007, 06:43 AM
Actually, under 'Texas Express' rules, tapping the balls is not legal, and will result in loss of game, and 1 more. If continued, can result in loss of the match.

First off, by tapping the balls, depending on how hard, you create divets. These divets prevent the balls from coming out of the break like they would without divets (takes the ball action off the break). By the time, you have 4 or 5 different people tapping the balls in different matches, the table ends up really screwed up for racking after that. Balls end up on the edge of a divet and roll out from the ball next to it, leaving gaps. This is a significant source of a table going dead on the break eventually for everyone.

As far as the tapping, someone taps them at the top of the spot, then someone taps at the back of the spot .... Are you starting to get the picture ... The balls behind the head ball have almost overlapping divets, causing gaps in the balls behind the head ball.

slim
02-17-2007, 08:13 AM
There are some tables (usually the rack) that its impossible to get em tight, so to make it fair, alternate breaks.
First bring the head ball to the spot, push the rack slightly forward and see where the head ball settles, then push the rack slightly up so that the head ball wants to fall back towards the table indent. If your still having problems with the other balls, switch em around and REMEMBER the patten of the ones that resulted in a tight or the tightest possible rack. All balls have different diamaters once worn, and if allot of 9-ball is played on that table you will find the stripes less worn and will give you a tighter rack, hope these tips help out.

bradb
02-17-2007, 09:54 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Snapshot9:</font><hr> Actually, under 'Texas Express' rules, tapping the balls is not legal, and will result in loss of game, and 1 more. If continued, can result in loss of the match.

First off, by tapping the balls, depending on how hard, you create divets. These divets prevent the balls from coming out of the break like they would without divets (takes the ball action off the break). By the time, you have 4 or 5 different people tapping the balls in different matches, the table ends up really screwed up for racking after that. Balls end up on the edge of a divet and roll out from the ball next to it, leaving gaps. This is a significant source of a table going dead on the break eventually for everyone.

As far as the tapping, someone taps them at the top of the spot, then someone taps at the back of the spot .... Are you starting to get the picture ... The balls behind the head ball have almost overlapping divets, causing gaps in the balls behind the head ball.

<hr /></blockquote>
First we're talking a very light tap here, and its pretty hard to get a dent in Simonis?? We're talking pool, not golf greens. Divots? check the Simonis web site, these are microscopic fibers that stick up and they can be easily pressed down without damage thats how the surface is designed. What about jump shots, got dents there? How bout trick shot set ups? Or just normal top spin play.


On my brand new Simonis there are no paste on spots, just an ink mark, it plays cleaner that way.

I'm sure you are right about your league play, they don't want just anybody smacking their tables, but some pretty wierd things said here, if anybodys break is bad don't blame the felt. -Brad

bradb
02-17-2007, 10:45 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote slim:</font><hr> There are some tables (usually the rack) that its impossible to get em tight, so to make it fair, alternate breaks.
First bring the head ball to the spot, push the rack slightly forward and see where the head ball settles, then push the rack slightly up so that the head ball wants to fall back towards the table indent. If your still having problems with the other balls, switch em around and REMEMBER the patten of the ones that resulted in a tight or the tightest possible rack. All balls have different diamaters once worn, and if allot of 9-ball is played on that table you will find the stripes less worn and will give you a tighter rack, hope these tips help out. <hr /></blockquote>

Slim, if your pool hall has balls that are actually worn down they must be using really old balls. I've got Aramith pro balls and they are guaranteed no wear and the color goes right trhough the ball. As I mentioned with a very light tap you can make a ball settle in. If you are in a tourney like Snapshot said then better check the rules but at home or just practice this is fine.
I think the alternate break play is for giving each player an even chance. You can tight rack any table unless the surface is really shot.

slim
02-17-2007, 03:52 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote bradb:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote slim:</font><hr> There are some tables (usually the rack) that its impossible to get em tight, so to make it fair, alternate breaks.
First bring the head ball to the spot, push the rack slightly forward and see where the head ball settles, then push the rack slightly up so that the head ball wants to fall back towards the table indent. If your still having problems with the other balls, switch em around and REMEMBER the patten of the ones that resulted in a tight or the tightest possible rack. All balls have different diamaters once worn, and if allot of 9-ball is played on that table you will find the stripes less worn and will give you a tighter rack, hope these tips help out. <hr /></blockquote>

Slim, if your pool hall has balls that are actually worn down they must be using really old balls. I've got Aramith pro balls and they are guaranteed no wear and the color goes right trhough the ball. As I mentioned with a very light tap you can make a ball settle in. If you are in a tourney like Snapshot said then better check the rules but at home or just practice this is fine.
I think the alternate break play is for giving each player an even chance. You can tight rack any table unless the surface is really shot. <hr /></blockquote>

Balls wear with use, all of em, the tolerances of the super aramith or centennials are much less that the lesser priced balls. Take a micrometer and you'll see that is the case. If there is friction and contact and ball cleaning and all, there is wear. The one ball since its the head ball will most likely have more wear than others, plastic phenolic balls wear, only thing that I know of that doesn't wear down is a diamond.

bradb
02-17-2007, 05:32 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote slim:</font><hr>

Balls wear with use, all of em, the tolerances of the super aramith or centennials are much less that the lesser priced balls. Take a micrometer and you'll see that is the case. If there is friction and contact and ball cleaning and all, there is wear. The one ball since its the head ball will most likely have more wear than others, plastic phenolic balls wear, only thing that I know of that doesn't wear down is a diamond. <hr /></blockquote>

Slim, my set is gauranteed for 400,000 hits per ball of perfect play. Thats a lifetime for a home set. Thats what I meant.

Pool halls should replace a good set after several years. If you are well known at your pool room they should let you play with the super set if you ask. They should also let you play on a decent table and not the ones the bangers tear up. So my advice was for more advanced players as I assume you and others in this thread are, not beginners at a place that has garbage equiptment and video machines crowded around the tables.
So proper setting of the rack as i mentioned is common. Sometimes a gentle tap will settle a ball in and the rest will rack fine. I'm not talking about pounding on the rack like a GD goriilla. -Brad
/ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif

slim
02-18-2007, 04:30 AM
Slim, my set is gauranteed for 400,000 hits per ball of perfect play. Thats a lifetime for a home set. Thats what I meant.

Pool halls should replace a good set after several years. If you are well known at your pool room they should let you play with the super set if you ask. They should also let you play on a decent table and not the ones the bangers tear up. So my advice was for more advanced players as I assume you and others in this thread are, not beginners at a place that has garbage equiptment and video machines crowded around the tables.
So proper setting of the rack as i mentioned is common. Sometimes a gentle tap will settle a ball in and the rest will rack fine. I'm not talking about pounding on the rack like a GD goriilla. -Brad
/ccboard/images/graemlins/cool.gif <hr /></blockquote>

Well you just taught me something, and I've never heard of the 400,000 hit amount before guarantee. Now the part about banging like a gorilla, whats that got to do with me?

bradb
02-18-2007, 07:40 AM
Well you just taught me something, and I've never heard of the 400,000 hit amount before guarantee. Now the part about banging like a gorilla, whats that got to do with me? <hr /></blockquote>

Apologies there, I was refering to the othere reply about tapping on the balls by Snapshot. The no. of hits translates to years of use in thier warranty. -Cheers,