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View Full Version : Size of pockets - Large and small (tight)

preacherman
02-21-2007, 07:58 AM
My table obviously has large pockets (which I don't like).
My next table or when I redo this one I want the pockets tight. What I want to know is where do you measure to determine pocket size? At opening, middle or inside.

So please share with me where to measure and what is big, and what is the tightest I should go. Also on the SIDE pockets what should those measurements from big to tight.

Thanks,
Jim
www.christianpoolplayers.com (http://www.christianpoolplayers.com)

dr_dave
02-21-2007, 08:13 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote preacherman:</font><hr> My table obviously has large pockets (which I don't like).
My next table or when I redo this one I want the pockets tight. What I want to know is where do you measure to determine pocket size? At opening, middle or inside.

So please share with me where to measure and what is big, and what is the tightest I should go. Also on the SIDE pockets what should those measurements from big to tight.<hr /></blockquote>Pocket "size" is measured from point to point (see dimension "p" in the diagram at the top of TP 3.5 (http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/pool/technical_proofs/TP_3-5.pdf)). The old BCA specs for the average pocket sizes were 5" for corner and 5.5" for side, on average. I think these are still typical sizes for non-shimmed home tables. New pocket size specs can be found in section 9 here (http://www.wpa-pool.com/index.asp?content=rules_spec).

Regards,
Dave

Billy_Bob
02-21-2007, 08:48 AM
I quadruple shimmed my 7 ft. table and was glad I did. When I play on a regular table now, the pockets seem like the grand canyon!

It was very frustrating for about the first year as I had to learn to "aim very accurately" rather than send the ball in the direction of the pocket. But I have become better and better with time.

When playing on a regular table now, the balls usually roll into the center of the pocket. Before they would hit the sides of the pockets many times and "wobble in".

I had my quadruple shimmed table for about 3 years before I finally had an 8-ball break and run. No one else has ever done this. Many players have come close, but one ball will be slightly off and not fall into the pocket.

If you have a larger table, may not want to make the pockets as tight as I have mine. Might be beyond frustrating!

Also I decided to use pocket "facing" material to shim my pockets instead of extending the rubber. When a ball hits the pocket facing material, you hear a dull "thud" and the ball dies. My thinking is that I should never be hitting this area. This area is not on a regular table. So I get feedback when I am not aiming right. So I can't play off of this area (as you could not do on a regular table).

I measure my pockets at the pocket opening.

Corner pockets: 4 1/2"
Side pockets: 4 5/8"

Corner pockets: 3 3/4"
Side pockets: 3 7/8"

JimS
02-21-2007, 08:43 PM
I think there is considerably more to pocket difficulty than the opening measurement. The angle of the faceing, the material in the facing, under the cloth, and the depth of the ledge have a lot to do with how the table plays.

A good table mechanic would be able to provide you a good playing table but in order to achieve a good playing table you might need to install new cushions, facings, cloth and even might have to have the slate altered in some way.

preacherman
02-21-2007, 09:41 PM
Thanks for the answer. My table is a 9' so I'm not sure if I should make it the same tightness as your table. Though I want it as tight as it should be. At the moment I use spring loaded pock reducers. They can be purchased for approx. \$30.00, they help some but it is not the same as have a table originally made with tight pockets. I only recommend these for people who are stuck with big pockets and want to shrink them fast and easy.
If interested go to:
http://www.buddyhall.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/419412/vpcsid/0/SFV/8729

Jim
www.christianpoolplayers.com (http://www.christianpoolplayers.com)

JimS
02-22-2007, 10:53 PM
I'm sure there are good table mechanics in the Pa. area and they could build you some pockets as tight as you want.

It would mean new cushions, a considerable expense but worth it. I tried having my Brunswick 5" pockets double shimmed but then they were not the right angle and they rebound differently than properly shimmed pocket. Everybody told me I wouldn't be happy with the double shims but did I listen? Well of course not!! You can always tell a Swede, but you can't tell'm much!! /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif

My Diamnond Pro has corner pockets that are about 4 1/2" and that makes a 9 ft table play pretty tough... especially with the deep shelves.

Ask around the area pool halls or retail stores to see who they recommend to build your cushions/pockets.

ceebee
02-23-2007, 09:25 AM
When I restored my antique Table, I bought new rubber rails. I allowed the Rubber Rails to be longer, instead of double or triple shimming the ends to tighten the pocket. Too many shims &amp; the table is hard to play One-Pocket on. The last 1/2 inch of the corner rails is actually the shim, I didn't like that. Many of the players complain about that, on our local Match Table.

mantis
02-26-2007, 09:51 PM
I believe the new Brunswick Metro Tournament table you see on tv has 4.5" pockets. Going smaller than that may make you change how you would play position on certain shots, and how or if you would shoot them. Don't go too small.