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View Full Version : How playable will this table be?

sandgnat
03-13-2007, 01:23 PM
http://pic30.picturetrail.com/VOL1514/6793049/13054384/237530892.jpg

Hi all!

I am about to install an 8 foot table in a room that is slightly smaller than the customary minimums with respect to room width. I was curious to hear from the experience of others as to how much of an issue this is going to be. The minimum for width 13'2" to 13' 8" or even more depending on the source. My room is 12'11" wide. I am not considering a smaller table because I already have a very nice 8 foot American Heirlloms table that I have no complaints about. It was previously in a 20 x 20 room so playability was not an issue then.

13'2" allows for just the standard cue length on each side plus the playing surface width (44") and no stoke room. I know that there will be some short cue shots required, but I was trying to get a feel for roughly how often this would happen. I was using my "engineering minded" brain to try and calculate the percentage of shots this will affect. I do have a pair of sliding glass doors that I can open that will eliminate some of these. I plan on offseting the table by 3.5 inches toward the sliding glass doors to make at least one side relatively free of issues. This of course worsens the problem on the other side. I am still considering centering it on the room. I have calculated that roughly 1 in 25 shots will require the use of a shorter cue. (The link to an image snapshot from a CADD drawing I have of the room)

Any thoughts or experience with this type of situation?

Thanks!

bsmutz
03-13-2007, 02:34 PM
12'11" is 155"-44" equals 111" divided by 2 equals 55.5" on both sides of the table if you center it. This means that if the cue ball is within 2" of the rail on a straight shot, you will need a shorter cue than the standard 58". A 48" cue would serve you well in these circumstances. My walls are ~60" from the playing surface. When the cue ball is on the rail on a straight shot, I can't draw my 60" cue back. However, a 58" cue gives me plenty of room to stroke. There is some leeway there. Your one in 25 figure sounds about right, but may actually be a little on the high side, especially if you think about the leave a little more. Personally, I'd avoid the off center/sliding glass door option. I think you'd find the short side of the table awfully hard to play off of. Get a 54" or 52" cue and you should be set.

wolfdancer
03-13-2007, 03:21 PM
after doing the math, using your formula.....
12'11" = 155-44 =111"/2 =55.5"
Have you thought of becoming a Budget analyist for HP?

03-13-2007, 03:27 PM
My thoughts on this are that most shots are taken from the rack half of the table, and the fewest from behind the headstring (if you have a killer break, perhaps not). So, if the table can be positioned so that you have the best clearance on the rack-half, you will minimize your problems.

Sounds like a situation where you will become adept at keeping the cueball out of the groves.

sandgnat
03-13-2007, 04:12 PM
Thanks for the input so far!

bsmutz,
I normally play w/ a standard 58" cue... except when forced to use a short cue at a friend's house where he has a couple of tight corners too. Does using a shorter cue, say a 54", change the feel of the stroke much? I would hate to have played all week at home and have trouble adjusting to my regular cue come league night!

So you think centering it would work best? I am hesitant to do that because that would mean more trouble spots whereas with it offset, the trouble spots are reduced quite a bit, albeit greater in overall severity in many instances. Of course, this would give an advantage to the player selecting the "wide-side" pocket when playing one pocket. I appreciate your input! Now I have a lot more thinking to do about it. I was going to install my light this weekend. Now I am thinking that I should set the table up first and use it for a few weeks before committing to the location.

DeadCrab... I don't have an issue lengthwise. I do however have an issue with the close proximity of the sliding glass doors! The break table jumpers hitting the glass is certainly a concern I have! My own break tends to stay on the table but my friend has one of those hammer breaks that when it works, its great... when it doesn't... beer bottles in the next county can get broken!

Cheers,
Jeff

Bob_Jewett
03-13-2007, 04:43 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote sandgnat:</font><hr> ...I am about to install an 8 foot table in a room that is slightly smaller than the customary minimums with respect to room width. ...
Any thoughts or experience with this type of situation?<hr /></blockquote>

Sure. You have been looking at sites that are trying to sell you tables. Here is the room size guide from the RSB FAQ:

table ---- playing area ---- room size
8' ------- 44" x 88" ---- 14'4" x 18'
8+' ----- 46" x 92" ---- 14'6" x 18'4"

The FAQ goes on to say that maybe you should consider trying the dimensions before actually putting a table in. See http://www.sfbilliards.com/faq.html for the grisly details of how to do that.

Different people react differently to being crowded. Will bumping the wall cause you to smash out drywall and injure yourself and your loved ones? Or are you the type for whom the cozier the better? No one here can tell you how you will react. Personally, I'd hate it and start smashing drywall, but a friend of mine put his table in the corner of a room (up against two walls) and he can practice any shot he wants whenever he wants, and he's happy with it.

03-14-2007, 06:25 AM
For glass protection, consider the following:

- really thick curtains, weighted at the bottom

- a moveable folding wood screen (louvered bi-fold closet doors hinged together work fine). Store elsewhere when not playing pool.

- you can talk to a glass dealer about polycarbonates like Lexan, but in general, thick tempered glass is tough stuff to break. Pool ball resistant...maybe.

sandgnat
03-14-2007, 07:21 AM
Thanks for the information and advice, Bob! The link to the FAQs has also been very helpful and informative. At this point, I already have the table and the room and nowhere else that I could put it, so I am going to go ahead and set it up. I guess I will let everyone here know how it goes, whether the outcome with regard to my staisfaction is good or bad. I have a feeling that I will become somewhat frustrated with the playability because I really like to have a spread out stance and I am 6'3". I am anticipating getting a couple or 54" cues and seeing how that goes. I have played on several tables where there have been tight corners and short cues mounted on the wall immediately adjacent... and it has never really ruined my playing experience. It can be a bit frustrating when you are trying to send one all the way up a nine foot table from the rail with a 32" cue or attempting a long bank or kick. At the same time, I think that I am/will be one of those people that would rather have any table versus none at all. I will certainly know for sure one way or the other in the near future.

Thanks for the tips. I am a bit hardheaded and will likely wait until I actually break a pane before resorting to such measures as you suggest becaus the view out the windows is good, night and day. And I don't think that there will be a glare issue as the doors open onto a large poolside covered patio. But, if I do break one, I will wise up quickly! My plan is to play well enough so that my pool buddies with the big breaks don't get to show them off very often anyway. LOL!

Jeff

SPetty
03-14-2007, 09:23 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote sandgnat:</font><hr> I am a bit hardheaded and will likely wait until I actually break a pane before resorting to such measures as you suggest becaus the view out the windows is good, night and day. <hr /></blockquote>They're kinda pricey to replace, but they sure do sparkle with all the cracks! We still don't know what or when this happened, but we came across it awhile back:
http://www.pettypoint.com/doorin.jpg

sandgnat
03-14-2007, 09:29 AM
Zoinks! Perhaps I should rethink this one, eh? Good Golly! Is there confirmation that it was caused by a cue ball jumping a table? /ccboard/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

bsmutz
03-14-2007, 05:53 PM
My experience has been that a shorter cue than normal by less than a foot is a lot closer in feel to a full length cue than a 32" cue that feels like a jump cue. My grandson has a short cue that he brings over and it doesn't feel bad at all. I definitely would have to practice with a 32" cue before I would feel comfortable using it. I remember losing a match in a tournament one time due to having a wall blocking access to one corner of the table. I used the shorty cue and failed miserably. I don't know how much the little furniture spiders are, but I would possibly look into purchasing some or renting some and set the table up temporarily on them so you can roll it around and try different positions. I was afraid of being too close to the wall when I set my room up, but it's not really that bad. I do miss a few shots here and there because of it, but I miss shots here and there anyway!

trob
03-15-2007, 04:15 AM
I have some wall issue's in my basement when playing but being a person who plays everyday and can't get out to the club or bar to play all the time it's better then not haveing a table at all. It's not like I'm holding big tournaments in my basement...It's mostly for me to keep in stroke and the kids to have some fun on.

DickLeonard
03-15-2007, 06:00 AM
SPetty my favorite tale is from Fran Crimi, she was teaching a person in his penthouse in NYC. She thought that they should break away from the glass windows. He said see that painting on the wall it's a Rembrandt I would much prefer to break the glass.####

sandgnat
03-15-2007, 06:45 AM
Now that you mention it, I think that I will consider putting a screen in front of my Rembrandt too! /ccboard/images/graemlins/wink.gif