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View Full Version : Jump/Break Cue Vs Seperate Jump and Break Cue?



nipponbilliards
03-23-2007, 07:56 PM
Hi everyone,

As you may have heard, we have a new jump cue with a new tip that we debut in valley Forge, and it was very well received.

I have received a lot of requests about if I am going to build a line of break cue, and a line of jump cues--rather than just one jump break cue.

I know jump break offers a lot of convenience, and the X Breaker is known to be a good break cue and jump cue; on the other hand, some believe that a cue should be built for a specific task, rather than a combination of two.

I am very interested in hearing your feedback on this matter. Your opinion will be very helpful regarding our product development.

Thank you very much in advanced.

Regards,
Richard

Cydpkt
04-03-2007, 09:13 AM
With the variety of materials out that enhance the jump (tips and ferrules(sorry for the misspelling)) I personally would have a cue (or separate shaft) built for jumping to save my normal shooting tip. That being said the market is getting flooded with jump/jump-break cues. Its hard to know which ones out perform the others. Does anyone know of "independant" tests done on jump or jump/break cues?

Snapshot9
04-03-2007, 11:30 AM
Richard .... That is a good question, but, I think, you will have equal arguments on both sides. I was a firm believer in seperate cues for breaking vs. jumping until I got my cutrent J&J Break/Jump cue,and it performs well until I get my X-Breaker, that is ... LOL

I got it at such a bargain price, that I couldn't pass it up. And I did get a 2nd shaft for it because are you liable
to break something on a break stick or your regular stick first? The J&J has the phenolic ferrule/tip, and I have adjusted to it pretty well, but I do find myself wanting
better control, for english's sake, on jump shots.

I am now thinking of a 2nd jump cue that would do the trick and give me better control. In that respect, I would probably get your new one (BTW, did you get my email back to you?).

I think there will always be players that believe to get the very best of both worlds, you have to have the best breaker and the best jumper as seperate cues. Other people believe
you can get close enough with the best Breaker/Jump cue, and
like the convenience of having them both in one cue, and for the sake of their case capacity.

Now, I will offer this though: The quick release joints on the J&J offer much convenience to a player. It's load and go function is real handy in different situations. I see players unscrewing Break/Jump cues to get the jump part, and unscrew, and unscrew, and unscrew, and it ends up being a hassle, and interrupts the flow of the match, even for the player shooting.

I think it would serve your interests to produce both, a seperate Break cue, a seperate Jump Cue, and a Break/Jump
cue (I really don't want the Maximizer on the Jump portion when jumping or have to remove it).

Now, the question becomes:
1) Is the Break/Jump cue price lower than buying one of each seperately? or not? Would end up being sales incentive.

I must add though, that I do kind of have a special interest in different cue cases and jump cues, don't know why, just do.

sygfrid
04-11-2007, 01:02 PM
A known custom cue maker once explained to me the benefits of having a separate jump & break cues.

SOLID-BUTT BREAK CUE w/ HARD LEATHER TIP
Whether you use a hard or a soft break, a key factor in a good break is CONTROLLING the cue ball after impact. It is easier to control the cb after the impact w/ a hard leather tip than w/ a phenolic tip, which usually makes the cb fly around, since some energy is lost as the leather tip compresses during impact. We are then hoping that the butt “preserves” enough energy to give a powerful break since there is already energy loss at the tip.

A solid-butt break cue preserves and transmits the “power” better than a 2pc-butt (jump/break) as it eliminates “hollow” spaces (i.e. joint) where the energy is easily lost. Imagine 2 barbecue sticks: cut one in half then glue it back. Now, apply progressive amount of pressure at the end of the glued stick & the solid one. Can you guess which one will snap faster?

Opening up the table is the essence of the break. Therefore, you need to deliver a break POWERFUL enough to scatter the balls yet maintain CONTROL over the cb for a positional shot.

JUMP CUE w/ PHENOLIC TIP
POWER is needed to make the cb jump, and a phenolic tip does a better job at this than with a hard leather tip since the phenolic tip doesn’t compress at all. Unlike with break shots, jumping doesn’t need the finesse of controlling the cb since you can’t really dictate where it should end up after hitting the ob. You can’t really order the cb to jump 5” high & 10” far then make a stun shot upon impact onto the ob. The main business here is to make the cb JUMP HIGH & FAR ENOUGH over the interfering ball so as not to foul, and, at least, hit the ob after landing.

Hope this helps /ccboard/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

SpiderMan
04-11-2007, 01:48 PM
Regardless of all the claims for special materials, tips, joints, etc, the main requirement of a jump cue is that it be light. This allows it to rebound quickly off the CB, reducing the chance of a double-hit and foul as the CB comes up off the table. The best jumpers are invariably the lightest ones. There hasn't been a jump cue invented that gets over close balls better than a shaft-only would back when that was legal.

Most J/B combo cues I have tried were too heavy when broken down for jumping. If I were a cuemaker thinking of offering a J/B combo, I'd look at trying to keep the "jump" section of the butt really low-density, and make up the weight in the grip area. How much would this require the balance to shift on the break cue? And could the combo still have the desired hit? Probably worth looking into.

SpiderMan