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TerAs
08-24-2007, 02:46 PM
Hi everybody!

I have the slate for pool table. (51"x95") And I want cut the slate to make holes for the balls. Which is the right dimensions I must cut? /ccboard/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I am waiting your answers.

Thanks

Deeman3
08-24-2007, 03:22 PM
TerAs:

What you have is a slate blank. You will need to decide/state what the finished size and type of table you are making. For instance, a 4 & 1/2 x 9 foot will require a template that will not only specify hole sizes for the pocket (partial cutouts requiring a mill) but their location based on their relative position to the centerline of the slates along with the clearance for the rail bolt holes, typically 5/8 inch bolts. I don't have such a template but you can get one, I'm sure after you make the size clearer. As well, will you divide the slate into three pieces or just have a one piece design? If so and it's a thick slate, you better have a good way of moving it. A one inch slate in three pieces is a chore for two strong guys. I'm not being difficult here but you will need to give more information for someone to help you.

Regards,

wolfdancer
08-24-2007, 03:49 PM
Dee, I've seen cutouts made on slate...my old Boss used his own template to make them...I'm not sure there is a standard, after playing on tables with a big "lip". I tried to Google for him to find some dimensions, but ...
I'm sure his use of holes was a misnomer for cutouts...as the only hole I know in a pool table is the one for bumper pool.
(Say, isn't that the game of choice in Luverne?)

DeadCrab
08-24-2007, 04:33 PM
Dimensions for K-pattern slate can be found here:

http://www.lakesidebilliardsupply.com/pooltableslate.html
(scroll to bottom of page)

or here:

http://www.lakesidebilliardsupply.com/pooltableslate.html

BigRigTom
08-25-2007, 11:50 AM
Wow Deadcrab!
That is a cool site.
I didn't know you could buy slate like that on the web.
Stands to reason though since you can buy just about anything else on the web now-a-days!

TerAs
08-26-2007, 03:31 AM
Thanks for your answers guys!

Deeman3 I have 3 pieces of slate, and I will make 8ft table!

DeadCrab Very good plans!!!

I have one more question!

Someone told me that the side holes it must not be exactly half cycle. For example if the radius of circle in the height is 2 inches, the radius of circle in the length must be 2,5 inches. Is that right?

DeadCrab
08-26-2007, 06:49 AM
Look at the plans carefully. The center of the side pocket "circles" has a 22mm offset from the side of the slate. The centers of the circles for the corner pockets have a 54 mm offset.

Use of these offsets will provide correct pocket dimensions.
As you noted, the width and depth as measured at the side of the slate will differ.

TerAs
08-26-2007, 09:56 AM
DeadCrab thanks for your answer!!! /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I know that I must not count from the edge of the slate.
In this plan the radius of circle in the depth is bigger (92mm) from the radius of circle in the width (70mm) (side holes)

But in an other plan the radius of circle in the depth is smaller (45mm) from the radius of circle in the width (56mm)
Do you thing that it's right??

Thanks!

DeadCrab
08-26-2007, 01:28 PM
Yes, there are some differences between slate patterns, and you will have to choose carefully to get the type of table that you want.

Some of your design will be dictated by the playing surface dimensions. For example: a slate pattern 95" by 51" will have a playing surface of 88" x 44". Therefore, the nose of the cushions will all be 3.5" from the edge of the slate. This of course, means that your rail-sub rail assembly will need to be at least this wide.

It is now time to design your pockets. If you are designing a table for serious players, check the WPA specifications for angles and pocket openings. Most serious players will want 4.5" openings at the corner pockets between the points of the cushions, experts might prefer 4". For an easy recreational table, consider 5" or perhaps more. The side pockets should be 0.5" wider than the corners, again measured between cushion points.

Where the pocket cutouts on the slate pattern figure in, is determining the depth of the pocket shelf. I put mine at the lower end of WPT specifications because I want a ball that clears the pocket jaws to fall in most of the time. Expert players might prefer a larger shelf.

Print copies of the patterns, and mark dimensions of the playing surface on it. Remember the length of the playing surface must be exactly twice the width. Then mark the corner and side pockets to your specifications for pocket opening (hint: call the left lower corner of the pattern the origin (0,0) and use the distance formula to determine the coordinates of your cushion points). Connect the pocket points with a line, and see how deep the shelf is. If it is what you want, you are ready to go. Otherwise, try other patterns, or perhaps design your own.

WPT specs:
(http://www.wpa-pool.com/index.asp?content=rules_spec)

TerAs
08-27-2007, 08:24 AM
Thanks for your reply!
You have help me very much. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
There are any other plans which i can see?
(did you have any plan to send by mail?)

Deeman3
08-27-2007, 08:44 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote wolfdancer:</font><hr>
(Say, isn't that the game of choice in Luverne?) <hr /></blockquote> <font color="blue">
Bumper pool is dead in Luverne so as you have often said, "As goes Luverne, so goes the world." However, we are pretty big on that other pool game 6, footers with gaping pockets andoccasional blood stains on the cloth..Not kidding here in the least. /ccboard/images/graemlins/confused.gif I may have the only tight pocketed 9 footer in the county. Of course, I said that about DeeWoman as well. /ccboard/images/graemlins/smirk.gif</font color>

DeadCrab
08-27-2007, 03:35 PM
After finishing your design on paper, I recommend that you cut it out on a sheet of plywood or MDF before cutting the slate.

Position your rails on the plywood (or MDF)cutout, and make sure the pockets meet the design specifications.

You can then use this as a template to cut the slate, and use it as a slate backing for the finished product.

Good luck with your project.

TerAs
08-28-2007, 05:31 AM
DeadCrab I have all ready begin the few last days to make test with mdf! /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thanks for your advises and for your help /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif