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SpiderMan
07-27-2002, 11:57 PM
Here are the photos I promised.

1 - Your cue as I received it. You can easily see where the tip is debonded and a gap is showing. Also you can see that the ferrule is rounded off at the corners from careless sanding.

2 - Here the tip is removed, showing that there was only about 70% glue coverage between tip and ferrule. On the top of the ferrule, the brown area is where there was glue, and removal left part of the tip attached. The white area had no adhesion, and you can see blue/green dust where chalk had actually worked into the crack. You might want to consider a different tip doctor.

3 - Here's the new tip with the epoxy curing. The newspaper is wrapped on the shaft to protect it from picking up any nicks if it accidentally falls over. You can also see a wrap of Scotch tape, which keeps any epoxy off the ferrule.

4 - Trimmed, burnished, and ready to go.

SpiderMan

<a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/funkychateau/lst?.dir=/SPetty+Predator+Talisman&amp;.src=ph&amp;.done>http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/funkychateau/lst?.dir=/SPetty+Predator+Talisman&amp;.src=ph&amp;.done</a>

stickman
07-28-2002, 01:17 AM
Great job, Spiderman!

Rod
07-28-2002, 01:25 AM
Quote, SM
2 - Here the tip is removed, showing that there was only about 70% glue coverage between tip and ferrule. On the top of the ferrule, the brown area is where there was glue, and removal left part of the tip attached. The white area had no adhesion, and you can see blue/green dust where chalk had actually worked into the crack. You might want to consider a different tip doctor."

If I had a dollar for every tip that looks like photo 2, well I'd have a quite a few more dollars. It also adds a little click to the hit. Notice the layers on the crown of the tip. I used epoxy when I did tips also, it fills in the voids. BTW nice job.
I think SPetty will track you down when it's time for another tip.

SPetty
07-28-2002, 02:34 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: SpiderMan:</font><hr> You might want to consider a different tip doctor.<hr></blockquote>hahahaha - Yeah, maybe!

Thanks Spiderman! Those pictures are just awesome. No wonder I was having trouble with that tip. Wow!

Like Rod said, I think I will track you down when it's time for another tip! And like Stickman said, great job, Spiderman! I can't thank you enough!

Rip
07-28-2002, 04:58 PM
Hi Spiderman--what do you use to spin the shaft?
SPetty's poorly installed tip, prior to Spidey's fix, is something I've also experienced. Couple of years ago I gave three shafts to three different "professional" cue repair guys at the BCA show in Vegas. One guy butchered the ferrule and Talisman tip. Chunks were missing from the tip! It's a miracle it didn't draw "Blud" when I shot with it. The second guy installed an ivory ferrule on a Schon shaft and the ferrule turned out very nice. However, he installed a Moori Soft tip on the new ferrule for a special discount of only $55 for the tip and $5.00 for the fiber pad (50 for $5.00 thru Atlas)LOL! So I gave this "pro" a wad of fun tickets (that's what my teenage daughters call money), drove over to the Cue Club and hit three balls before the Moori went flying across the room. You could see the glue had made contact with less than 1/4 of the tip! Mickey Mouse like the one in "Orlandi" could have done better. The third shaft was given to Joe Blackburn for a tip replacement and I was very happy with the result. I believe in giving credit where credit is due so THANKS JOE and I refuse to badmouth the other two "pro cue repair dudes" who will remain nameless...sort of! LOL. Good job Spiderman! Rip


<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: SpiderMan:</font><hr> Here are the photos I promised.

1 - Your cue as I received it. You can easily see where the tip is debonded and a gap is showing. Also you can see that the ferrule is rounded off at the corners from careless sanding.

2 - Here the tip is removed, showing that there was only about 70% glue coverage between tip and ferrule. On the top of the ferrule, the brown area is where there was glue, and removal left part of the tip attached. The white area had no adhesion, and you can see blue/green dust where chalk had actually worked into the crack. You might want to consider a different tip doctor.

3 - Here's the new tip with the epoxy curing. The newspaper is wrapped on the shaft to protect it from picking up any nicks if it accidentally falls over. You can also see a wrap of Scotch tape, which keeps any epoxy off the ferrule.

4 - Trimmed, burnished, and ready to go.

SpiderMan

<a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/funkychateau/lst?.dir=/SPetty+Predator+Talisman&amp;.src=ph&amp;.done>http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/funkychateau/lst?.dir=/SPetty+Predator+Talisman&amp;.src=ph&amp;.done</a> <hr></blockquote>

SpiderMan
07-28-2002, 09:31 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: Rip:</font><hr> Hi Spiderman--what do you use to spin the shaft?
<hr></blockquote>

Rip,

I have a regular metalworking lathe at home (an old prewar Atlas) that I use for gunsmithing, motorcycle/auto, and other fun stuff. It's probably overkill for tip work, but I use it because I have it. I use a dial indicator on the ferrule while chucking, so that it will spin perfectly centered and I can trim the tip very close without nicking the ferrule. And of course I use the slow-cure epoxy for a complete fill and reliable long-term bond. If you enlarge SPetty's finished tip, you can see two separate glue fills, a thin one between the ferrule and pad, and a thicker one between pad and tip. The ferrule/pad interface is pretty flat, so it doesn't need as much fill.

Sounds like you had a nightmare in 'Vegas. It's not just the loss of the tipping investment, but the incredible inconvenience of an equipment failure when you're all set to play. Hopefully the guy at least put a new tip on for you for free.

SpiderMan