View Full Version : Is this the right Pool Table?

10-24-2007, 06:20 PM
I am looking at purchasing a table after I insulate my attached double garage for a place to install it. I live in Montana so the choices here are somewhat slim. There is a Brunswick and an Olhausen dealer here. I talked to the Olhausen dealer at length and he had a lot of good things to say about his company's quality. I am looking at the 8' Sheraton which is their entry level table. I can upgrade to the Accu-fast cushions for less than $80. I am looking for performance and not the bells and whistles or appearance since it will be in my garage. I have a budget of $2500 including setup. I know this subject has been hashed and rehashed in this forum but any knowledgeable comments or pointers would be appreciated. Am I overlooking anything by this selection? Thanks for your attention to this.

10-25-2007, 06:13 AM
Your best bet is to find a used Gold Crown. They come up frequently, and they are real good tables. I would say in
considering quality vs budget, it would be your best buy.

But, I would still consider any Diamonds, Olhausens, or Connellys I ran across.

10-25-2007, 08:11 AM
I would check what the table specs are regarding pocket size. I think that the BCA and WPT are now in agreement that the standard dimensions are 4.5" for corner pockets and 5.0" for the sides. However, there are a lot of tables out there that are not in compliance with these specs, and I would recommend making sure before you buy. If the pockets are bigger, I would shy away from tightening by shimming as a solution. Also check the shelf depth, as deep shelves on 4.5" pockets would be pretty tough for novice and intermediate players.

Finally, I would recommend deciding how high you want your table's playing surface before setup, as it would be very difficult to change later. 31" is top end of regulation, but in my opinion, 33-34" is a lot more comfortable.

10-25-2007, 12:38 PM
I haven't had good experiences with my Connelly. I won the table in a pool tournament, but it's been cursed since. It's been more to the fault of the first installer who setup the table, but I found the Connelly factory to be very unhelpful in my tribulations. The cushions have also been acting a little funny lately. They even screwed up and supplied me a rail with the diamonds located incorrectly.

I think the overall construction seems fine, but customer service on a new table is important to me. The thing I do like the most about my Connelly is the tight pockets that were standard on the 9 footer.

When I decide to get another table, I'll be looking at something like an Olhausen or Diamond or Brunswick. I would highly recommend getting specifics about who will be doing the installation, how experienced they are, and what they offer for follow-ups since a new table is probably going to shift some.

10-25-2007, 05:12 PM

If you have a Slick Willies Pool Hall or other major pool hall chain in your area, talk to the manager. They can get huge discounted prices on brand new tables because they purchase in bulk. You could work out a deal to get one of their used Gold Crowns for dirt cheap. $2500 for an 8 ft Olhausen is a little high. I just bought a brand new Olhausen (8ft) for about $2000.

I also have a Brunswick Gibson (9ft). It is a great table, but it cost and arm and a leg. Olhausen is just as good, but better in cost.

The Gold Crowns are functionly/performance wise, one of the best tables out there.

I would definitely get shimmed pockets. You want tighter pockets to sharpen your game. Besides, the pros play on tight pockets. If the dealer gives you crap about shims, find someone else. Standard sized pockets are a joke. I call them "leisure pockets" because a drunkard that has never played pool can pocket balls on it.
Also, if you get drop pocket, get deep pockets. You don't want the pocket to be full when there is only 3 balls in a pocket.

10-25-2007, 06:55 PM
I would definitely get shimmed pockets. You want tighter pockets to sharpen your game.

How can you possibly recommend that he get shimmed pockets, when you don't know what size pockets his table comes with?

Furthermore, if something has to be done with the pockets, shouldn't it be done by subrail extention, rather than shimming?

Look, for $2800, you should love everything about this table, especially pocket dimensions. The rails that it comes with should provide pockets that are to your liking. If they aren't, then don't buy it.

10-27-2007, 07:58 AM
Just thought I would let you know, someone is advertising
12 Gold Crown III's on AZB in for sale section. I believe
they are in New York. Don't know what shipping would run.

10-27-2007, 09:28 AM
Probably $1200.

Slate is almost free. Moving it is expensive.

10-27-2007, 02:05 PM
Deadcrab..."How can you possibly recommend that he get shimmed pockets, when you don't know what size pockets his table comes with?"

I agree with you on this point. Shimming will definately mess with the proper behavior of the pockets. As you know, pocket characteristics, including width dimensions are designed in to the rails/slate surface at the time of table manufacture.

So I agree with you that if you don't like the pocket characteristics, find another table.


10-27-2007, 02:24 PM
I have an Olhausen 9 ft. and love it. But DEFINATELY go with the accufast rails. If you do, in my opinion, there is little or no superiority between the Olhausen and either the Gold Crown or the Diamond.

All 3 companies make GREAT tables but I must admit that Olhausen is being "outmarketed" by both Brunswick and Diamond.

Here's a fact...the accufast cushions are MORE expensive than the Gold Crown cusions!

But it's sort of like Harley Davidson. Honda builds bikes that are AT LEAST as good, part for part, as the equivalent Harley and are KNOWN to be more reliable and yet Harley gets at least 20% more for their bikes.

Some people don't mind paying for labels....but I do.

Also, since you are going to have your table in a converted garage in an area where there is a radical change in temperatures DO THESE THINGS WITHOUT FAIL.

1. Be SURE that your installer uses a HARDENING material when he joins your slate and NOT just bees wax or I guarantee you, the slate will move on you which will show up as lines visible on the cloth where the slate sections join together which is cause by a slight but totally irritating upward buldge at the joint. (flatten your hands and put the tips of your fingers together...pointing at each other...and move both your wrists down. THAT is what your slate will do.

2. Over time and especially when there is a lot of temperature/humidity variation, the bolts that tighten up your rails will work lose causing that rail to deaden somewhat. Some bolts will losen while others may not which will cause different rails to behave differently and turn an otherwise great table into junk.

Have the installer show you where the bolts are and how to check for correct tightness. I tighten them up about twice a year and my rail action is GREAT!
3. Before you buy a used table, CHECK THE CUSHIONS. Over time, the "rubber" can get either too hard or too soft. There is no precise way to measure that (as far as I know) so just go into a dealer or a pool hall with quality tables that are not more than 5 years old and just PUSH/FORCE balls into their rails and you will get a fairly decent "base line" on how much force it takes to press a ball...say...1/4 inch into the cushion. The used table's cushions should not take any more or less force. Check ALL SIX rails.

Good luck.