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View Full Version : SHIMMED POCKETS QUESTION



mbippus
12-10-2007, 04:15 PM
I just shimmed my pockets and I notice that when a ball bounces off the point or in and out the speed of said ball is greatly reduced. The shims don't have as much action as the accufast rails. Is this normal? Are there different types of shims, depending on rails?

Thanks

Billy_Bob
12-11-2007, 10:23 AM
I have my pockets shimmed and shimmed them myself. I had the choice of making the shim areas the same as the rails or using shim material which makes a dull "thud" when a ball hits there.

It was my thinking that a ball should never hit this shimmed area because it does not exist on a regular table.

If I am pocketing a ball, it should not hit this area, it should go into the center of the pocket. And if I am kicking or banking, I would not be able to use this area on a regular table because it is not there, so likewise I can't use it on my table either. If I do, I hear a dull thud and get very little bounce from the ball.

So this is the "no zone" on my table. A ball should never hit that area and if it does, I get feedback (thud) that it hit that area. If I made it so I could play from this area, I would not be able to do this when playing on a regular table. So best to not learn to play off this area.

DeadCrab
12-11-2007, 11:51 AM
I don't understand why hundreds of dollars are spent on cushions, and then a crappy rock hard facing has to be glued to it. The material sold as facing is cheap, but often way too hard, almost like a hockey puck.

I have heard of some table mechanics using 3/16" neoprene rubber instead of the usual facings. When I redo my table, I will likely do this, or see if I can use some leftover cushion rubber to make facings.

The glue that you use can also impart some hardness, so use a contact cement that doesn't dry real hard.

DeadCrab
12-11-2007, 11:59 AM
I forgot to mention that the preferred way of tightening pockets is to do subrail extentions, where extra wood is added to the ends of the subrails. Expensive, requires new rubber, but will play better.

ras314
12-11-2007, 03:11 PM
I be lost here. My biggest complaint with these redicoulus triple shimmed gold crowns is shooting a ball down the rail. No way you can avoid hitting the shims, and next to impossible to garentee the ball will drop unless it is barely rolling.

There are a few places with very tight GC pockets that are not pilled up with shims. Play on a few of those and you can see the value of DeadCrab's post.

Heretic
12-11-2007, 10:14 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Billy_Bob:</font><hr> I have my pockets shimmed and shimmed them myself. I had the choice of making the shim areas the same as the rails or using shim material which makes a dull "thud" when a ball hits there.

It was my thinking that a ball should never hit this shimmed area because it does not exist on a regular table.

If I am pocketing a ball, it should not hit this area, it should go into the center of the pocket. And if I am kicking or banking, I would not be able to use this area on a regular table because it is not there, so likewise I can't use it on my table either. If I do, I hear a dull thud and get very little bounce from the ball.

So this is the "no zone" on my table. A ball should never hit that area and if it does, I get feedback (thud) that it hit that area. If I made it so I could play from this area, I would not be able to do this when playing on a regular table. So best to not learn to play off this area.

<hr /></blockquote>It is easy to say that the ball should always hit the center of the pocket, but it does not always work that way. I am not above "cheating" a pocket if I am trying for a leave.......I have the neoprene shims in mine, and I am very happy with them

Terry
12-12-2007, 07:23 AM
The first time I shimmed my table, I done the same thing as you, I added more rubber to the end of my cushions. It bothered me everytime I hit close to the pocket and the ball would deaden on the rebound but I still beleive it helped with my pocketing. When I was ready to put new cloth on my table I decided to shim my table properly. I bought new cushions and had a buddy of mine who is the top finish carpenter in my area to make me maple rail extenders and install them for me. I then put on the new cushions along with the new cloth and now when I miss the pocket the ball will rebound naturally. This is expensive and also a lot of work but i'm glad I done it and i'd do it this way again if for some reason I had another table that I felt had pockets that were too forgiving. Terry

Billy_Bob
12-12-2007, 09:17 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Heretic:</font><hr>It is easy to say that the ball should always hit the center of the pocket, but it does not always work that way. I am not above "cheating" a pocket if I am trying for a leave.......I have the neoprene shims in mine, and I am very happy with them <hr /></blockquote>

Before I played on my shimmed table, I read about "cheating a pocket" and I thought this was impossible for myself. I was barely able to make the ball which would typically rattle in.

Now when playing on a regular table, the opening looks very very large to me with all sorts of extra space on either side of dead center (from direction of ball) to cheat the pocket. And I do this if I am left with a straight in shot and need the CB to go somewhere other that straight forward/backwards or stop.

Derek
12-12-2007, 04:34 PM
My 9 foot Connelly came with shimmed pockets as standard. The Cal Spas guy didn't have a clue when I brought it up to him, that the pocket dimensions were tighter, but they pretty much measure at the same dimensions as the Diamonds the pros play on. From what I can tell, the shimming is incorporated into the rubber of the rail, so I guess just a longer rubber length? I believe those dimensions are the acceptable lower limit of the BCA table specs.

I was frustrated at first when the Connelly was setup, as my previous 9 footer had buckets, but I wouldn't go back for anything now. It's nice being forced to be more precise with your shots.