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kevinkin
02-18-2008, 10:23 AM
I have been using the same tip for a year and a half playing a few hours a week. Is it time to re-tip? What should I look for?

Kevin

av84fun
02-18-2008, 01:15 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote kevinkin:</font><hr> I have been using the same tip for a year and a half playing a few hours a week. Is it time to re-tip? What should I look for?

Kevin <hr /></blockquote>

I STRONGLY recommend a dime radius because the tip can be oriented more toward the miscue extreme (half the distance between the center and edge of the ball)...depicted by the bottom of the stripe if oriented horizontally or the side of the stripe if oreinted vertically.

Given that, you need a certain thickness of leather so that the dime shape can be maintained. I don't know what that thickness is but the "scientists" on the forum can tell you what it is based on a given tip diameter.

Regards,
Jim

Rich R.
02-18-2008, 10:18 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote kevinkin:</font><hr> I have been using the same tip for a year and a half playing a few hours a week. Is it time to re-tip? What should I look for?

Kevin <hr /></blockquote>
If you don't mess with your tip too much, it can last a long time. Mine don't last as long, because I like to maintain a certain shape. Whether you prefer a nickel or dime radius, or some other radius, is a personal thing.

The general rule of thumb, for replacing tips, is to replace a tip when the side wall of the tip is the thickness of a dime. That is a last resort. Don't let your tip get any thinner than a dime. You risk damaging your ferrule. However, as the tip gets thinner, and more compressed, it will take on a harder feeling. Some like that feeling, but I don't. Because of this, I tend to replace tips sooner than most.

catscradle
02-19-2008, 07:48 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote kevinkin:</font><hr> I have been using the same tip for a year and a half playing a few hours a week. Is it time to re-tip? What should I look for?

Kevin <hr /></blockquote>

What Rich said, unless you're like me and want to try a different tip just to try a different tip.

Billy_Bob
02-19-2008, 11:31 AM
I replace my tip when the edges of the tip are close to the ferrule. The edges of the tip get closer and closer to the ferrule as I periodically scuff my tip (which also helps to keep my tip the same shape).

SpiderMan
02-19-2008, 03:49 PM
Re-tip as often as you like, for whatever reasons you like, but in nearly all cases re-tip when the height of the sidewalls (non-domed portion) reaches the approximate thickness of a nickel's edge.

SpiderMan

av84fun
02-19-2008, 04:35 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote SpiderMan:</font><hr> Re-tip as often as you like, for whatever reasons you like, but in nearly all cases re-tip when the height of the sidewalls (non-domed portion) reaches the approximate thickness of a nickel's edge.

SpiderMan <hr /></blockquote>

Now there can be a debate between nickel and dime THICKNESS as well as nickel and dime SHAPE!

FUN!!

(-:

I go with nickel thickness because I prefer a dime SHAPE and I prefer a dime SHAPE because:
1. Geometrically, it is obvious that the tip contact point can be lower relative to a less round shape and draw, as far as I know, is a function of the contact point's distance form center and the force applied to the shot.

2. According to Predator, a dime radius measurably reduces squirt which is why all their shafts ship with a dime radius. They should know a few things about squirt and I think it is REMARKABLE that they would ADMIT publicaly, that a meaninful portion of the reduced squirt their cues provide is BECAUSE OF THE TIP and not because of any shaft technology.

I would simply ask, what is wrong with a dime radius..and if the answer is "nothing", why not use it?

Regards,
Jim

Cornerman
02-20-2008, 12:40 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote av84fun:</font><hr> Now there can be a debate between nickel and dime THICKNESS as well as nickel and dime SHAPE!

FUN!!
<hr /></blockquote>I think the thickness of a nickel is too thick, considering the President's face adds extra thickness.

Fred &lt;~~~ not wondering why so many pros have really thin tips

Deeman3
02-20-2008, 01:20 PM
Fred,

I'm like you. I like them really thin, feels like it hits better and I always hate having to get a new thick tip.

av84fun
02-20-2008, 01:55 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Cornerman:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote av84fun:</font><hr> Now there can be a debate between nickel and dime THICKNESS as well as nickel and dime SHAPE!

FUN!!
<hr /></blockquote>I think the thickness of a nickel is too thick, considering the President's face adds extra thickness.

Fred &lt;~~~ not wondering why so many pros have really thin tips <hr /></blockquote>

LOL. But spiderman suggested the thickness of the EDGE not the total height.

I've never done a study of the thickness of pro's tips but I haven't noticed any tendency toward very thin tips.

Having said that, one of my heros, Babe Cranfield (who ran 768 in practice)loved super thin tips and had 2/3 of the leather ground off when new.

I have 10-15% removed at installation and then re-tip somewhere between a dime and a quarter's edge because I like consistency and the thinner the tip, the harder the hit seems to feel....due to compression I suppose.

Regards,
Jim

SpiderMan
02-20-2008, 01:59 PM
I used to feel the same way, but I could also argue that it is difficult to keep the tip in your favorite condition for an extended period because it leaves no room for retouching the crown. Percentage-wise, a 0.020" "shrinkage" makes a lot more difference if you're all played down.

I tend to run my tips in the mid-range, and change them early, so that they always feel the same. But, I don't have to pay for tips. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

SpiderMan

SpiderMan
02-20-2008, 02:00 PM
Same here, I change early. Ditto also on the dime radius.

SpiderMan

BLACKHEART
02-21-2008, 08:34 AM
It's the old story of "pay me now or pay me more latter". If you wait too long to replace the tip, you run the risk of cracking the ferrule. Then you end up with an EXTRA $20 repair to replace the ferrule...JER

cue_z
02-24-2008, 08:23 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BLACKHEART</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's the old story of "pay me now or pay me more latter". If you wait too long to replace the tip, you run the risk of cracking the ferrule. Then you end up with an EXTRA $20 repair to replace the ferrule...JER </div></div>

My question to the above is: Isn't it true that most Brand name cue sticks offer lifetime maintenance? Wouldn't that include the ferrule?

Rich R.
02-24-2008, 10:29 PM
quote=BLACKHEART]It's the old story of "pay me now or pay me more latter". If you wait too long to replace the tip, you run the risk of cracking the ferrule. Then you end up with an EXTRA $20 repair to replace the ferrule...JER [/quote]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cue_z</div><div class="ubbcode-body">[My question to the above is: Isn't it true that most Brand name cue sticks offer lifetime maintenance? Wouldn't that include the ferrule? </div></div>
No, and No.

The only cue I know of that has any kind of "Lifetime Warranty" is McDermott and that warranty is against any warpage and defects in materials and workmanship. That does not mean that they will replace your ferrule if you let the tip get too thin and damaged it. That would be your own fault.