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1Time
03-15-2010, 02:12 AM
Hopefully these 8 tips will help a few readers shoot better. I welcome comments and discussion.

1. Use a lighter weight cue ball, but still regulation and the same weight as the object balls. Heavier cue balls (regulation or not) tend to push off line easier. Reason: more weight tends to flex the cue more, which can send the CB off line more.

2. Grip nearer to or at the end of the cue, and bridge near the middle of the shaft or even closer to the joint (irrespective of the cue's pivot point) - a longer than normal bridge. Experiment with where to grip and bridge. This will seem strange at first for most players, but the benefit from doing so can be quite substantial. An open bridge may be preferred because the bridge hand will be on the shaft where it is larger in diameter.

3. Grip the cue in such a way as to better benefit from the pendulum motion of your stroke. I lightly grip the cue near the end of my thumb and index finger, and I angle my wrist slightly outward. But whatever works best for you is the goal. I recommend experimenting with different grips.

4. Use a cue that deflects less. I bought mine new in an on line auction for well under $100, a made in China 20 oz Ginger Wizard (GW) Stroker.

5. Shape the tip with a dime radius instead of flatter like a nickel radius.

6. Hit the CB a familiar speed that works for a given shot. A CB hit too easily on a non-level table can result in it rolling off line. Of course harder hit shots can be learned and made predictably as well.

7. Hit the CB near center and on its vertical axis. Of course shots struck otherwise can be learned and made predictably as well.

8. Hold and stroke the cue closer to level, instead of with the end jacked up high. For shots bridged off the rail, this usually means holding the shaft so it is touching the rail and not above the rail.

acuerate
03-15-2010, 03:42 AM
Some remarks wich are essential regarding your post :

point 1 : a lighter cue ball will always defelect much more because it will be pushed away by the cue on impact much more. There is NO shot without side spin as it's impossible to hit the cue ball dead straight. Even if you hit within the vertical axis your cue will flex out up or down as you will never hit centre/centre on the vertical axis. In 99% of all cases your cueing techniqe will never be that good that you don't apply any unintential side spin.
In this perspective your point 1 is surely open to serious discussion. The lighter the cue ball the more your cue (because of it's higher mass compared with the cue ball) will push the c ball away from it's line of aim (as the cue ball always tries to 'escape' from the cue top' ) ... I would suggest all readers of this post to test this out.

Point 2 - 3 ... The grip will not affect the deflection either. Only 'smoothness' of the shot. You should understand that the cue tip is only a fraction of a second in contact with the cue ball. The cuetip is only in contact for about 5mm ... after 5 mm the cueball already left the cue!!! This means that the only thing which might affect deflection is the speed of the cue and the question whether or not there still is accelaration of the cue on the moment of impact as this will cause more deflection.
So your grip will NOT have any impact. But ! if having a grip which will make your cueing 'smoother' might help as this will mean that you will not 'snatch' the shot.

I would also advise an open bridge for any shot because a closed bridge is (in our opinion) only useful for real powershots ... The technique of closed bridge (as also used in carom with the heavy balls) is to prevent the cue from moving too much on the fearce impact with the cueball ... With current playing conditions where the cue ball is much lighter and more reactive then before and the nap fast there is no reason to keep on using a technique which is limiting your aiming capacity ...

Snooker is a perfect example of this.

Hope this challenging post is discussed more in depth ...

Enjoy the game,

Johan

1Time
03-15-2010, 04:03 AM
I used heavier and lighter cue balls to determine point #1. The reason I gave for my conclusion makes sense to me. Edit: but the greater mass reasoning that you gave makes sense too. I will have to compare the two again later today. Thanks

These tips are for shooting the CB straighter. Regarding points #2 and #3, shots go straight or not for more reasons than deflection. And I made no reference to either being related to deflection.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: acuerate</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some remarks wich are essential regarding your post :

point 1 : a lighter cue ball will always defelect much more because it will be pushed away by the cue on impact much more. There is NO shot without side spin as it's impossible to hit the cue ball dead straight. Even if you hit within the vertical axis your cue will flex out up or down as you will never hit centre/centre on the vertical axis. In 99% of all cases your cueing techniqe will never be that good that you don't apply any unintential side spin.
In this perspective your point 1 is surely open to serious discussion. The lighter the cue ball the more your cue (because of it's higher mass compared with the cue ball) will push the c ball away from it's line of aim (as the cue ball always tries to 'escape' from the cue top' ) ... I would suggest all readers of this post to test this out.

Point 2 - 3 ... The grip will not affect the deflection either. Only 'smoothness' of the shot. You should understand that the cue tip is only a fraction of a second in contact with the cue ball. The cuetip is only in contact for about 5mm ... after 5 mm the cueball already left the cue!!! This means that the only thing which might affect deflection is the speed of the cue and the question whether or not there still is accelaration of the cue on the moment of impact as this will cause more deflection.
So your grip will NOT have any impact. But ! if having a grip which will make your cueing 'smoother' might help as this will mean that you will not 'snatch' the shot.

I would also advise an open bridge for any shot because a closed bridge is (in our opinion) only useful for real powershots ... The technique of closed bridge (as also used in carom with the heavy balls) is to prevent the cue from moving too much on the fearce impact with the cueball ... With current playing conditions where the cue ball is much lighter and more reactive then before and the nap fast there is no reason to keep on using a technique which is limiting your aiming capacity ...

Snooker is a perfect example of this.

Hope this challenging post is discussed more in depth ...

Enjoy the game,

Johan
</div></div>

cushioncrawler
03-15-2010, 03:07 PM
Hopefully these 8 tips will help a few readers shoot better. I welcome comments and discussion.

1. Use a lighter weight cue ball, but still regulation and the same weight as the object balls. Heavier cue balls (regulation or not) tend to push off line easier. Reason: more weight tends to flex the cue more, which can send the CB off line more. (i would hav thort that a very heavy set of balls would be eezyr to master -- the old 150gm balls are eezyr for english billiards than the modern 140gm balls, on a 12' table).

2. Grip nearer to or at the end of the cue, and bridge near the middle of the shaft or even closer to the joint (irrespective of the cue's pivot point) - a longer than normal bridge. Experiment with where to grip and bridge. This will seem strange at first for most players, but the benefit from doing so can be quite substantial. (most oldendayz players had a giant bridge -- english billiards).

An open bridge may be preferred because the bridge hand will be on the shaft where it is larger in diameter. (i karnt understand why closedBridges are so popular -- 99.9% of players on 12' tables uze the openBridge).

3. Grip the cue in such a way as to better benefit from the pendulum motion of your stroke. I lightly grip the cue near the end of my thumb and index finger, and I angle my wrist slightly outward. But whatever works best for you is the goal. I recommend experimenting with different grips. (a light finger'n'thumb grip woz popular for oldendayz english billiards -- it kan be surprizingly powerfull).

4. Use a cue that deflects less. I bought mine new in an on line auction for well under $100, a made in China 20 oz Ginger Wizard (GW) Stroker. (i reckon beginners shood begin with a broomstick).

5. Shape the tip with a dime radius instead of flatter like a nickel radius. (but praps beginners shood begin with a deadFlat tip -- especially if uzing a broomStick).

6. Hit the CB a familiar speed that works for a given shot. A CB hit too easily on a non-level table can result in it rolling off line. Of course harder hit shots can be learned and made predictably as well. (shooting slow shots with drag, ie skrew that evaporates before the Qball gets to the Oball, iz good -- koz it makes u swing at near'nuff the same pace eech time -- if dunn well).

7. Hit the CB near center and on its vertical axis. Of course shots struck otherwise can be learned and made predictably as well. (heavyr balls are more uzer'friendly when uzing side -- ie friendlyr than light balls -- ie more konsistent).

8. Hold and stroke the cue closer to level, instead of with the end jacked up high. For shots bridged off the rail, this usually means holding the shaft so it is touching the rail and not above the rail. (why not hold the shaft touching the rail for all shots, ie even when not bridging on the rail -- at least when the gripFist aint gonna hit the rail -- gee that hurts).

doncartmill
03-16-2010, 09:44 AM
Regarding the relative deflection of hvy vs lighter cue ball,go back to the point that has been discussed numerous times,and studied,whereby the lighter shaft...i.e. lightness in the first 6 inches back from/including the ferrel greatly reduces the squirt/cueball deflection. This to me indicates the relative difference between CB and 1st 6inches of shaft would yield the same results. i.e. lighter cue or heavier CB would both yield less squirt/CB deflection.

1Time
03-16-2010, 03:24 PM
acurate, I played around with a couple different cue balls again yesterday, and I now think you're right. I consider myself corrected on tip #1. A heavier cue ball is easier to shoot straighter than a lighter one. Thanks

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: acuerate</div><div class="ubbcode-body">point 1 : a lighter cue ball will always defelect much more because it will be pushed away by the cue on impact much more. </div></div>

cushioncrawler
03-16-2010, 03:40 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doncartmill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Regarding the relative deflection of hvy vs lighter cue ball,go back to the point that has been discussed numerous times,and studied,whereby the lighter shaft...i.e. lightness in the first 6 inches back from/including the ferrel greatly reduces the squirt/cueball deflection. This to me indicates the relative difference between CB and 1st 6inches of shaft would yield the same results. i.e. lighter cue or heavier CB would both yield less squirt/CB deflection.</div></div>don and 1Time -- Yes i reckon that the heavyr ball iz particularly good when u want to play a slow longRange shot with side -- ie longRange meening a long distance tween Qball and Oball.
madMac.

doncartmill
03-17-2010, 12:52 AM
In my post, I was referring to squirt /or CB deflection only
as it pertained to the hvy or lighter CB
If you shoot slow side english then swerve comes into play as well. I had thought it was the stiffness of the shaft that governed,and questioned why the predator shaft made in sections and which I thought would have more stiffness...was producing the best/least squirt After platinium billiards had responded to my question,and pointed out that the lighter the tip of the shaft (again in only the 1st 6 inches back from and including the ferrel) the less squirt is created,and that it was this lightness NOT the stiffness that governed squirt. Anyway I was re tipping one of my cues, which had a brunswick ferrel,and decided to drill thru the capped over ferrel and into the wood and then fill in with cork ( i.e.make the tip lighter ). Plat Billiards had mentioned that an additional gram of weight in the 1st inche would cause about 7mm additional squirt,1 gram in the 2nd in ..4 mm additional. After the tip was repaired in this manner (No real definative measurement ),but it appeared to have about 1 1/2 in of squirt at 50 in down table,which was what the predator was producing . I was very happy with my experiment,with my much cheaper shaft, which was by no means Predator quality.

1Time
03-17-2010, 01:38 AM
Very impressive. Thanks
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doncartmill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In my post, I was referring to squirt /or CB deflection only
as it pertained to the hvy or lighter CB
If you shoot slow side english then swerve comes into play as well. I had thought it was the stiffness of the shaft that governed,and questioned why the predator shaft made in sections and which I thought would have more stiffness...was producing the best/least squirt After platinium billiards had responded to my question,and pointed out that the lighter the tip of the shaft (again in only the 1st 6 inches back from and including the ferrel) the less squirt is created,and that it was this lightness NOT the stiffness that governed squirt. Anyway I was re tipping one of my cues, which had a brunswick ferrel,and decided to drill thru the capped over ferrel and into the wood and then fill in with cork ( i.e.make the tip lighter ). Plat Billiards had mentioned that an additional gram of weight in the 1st inche would cause about 7mm additional squirt,1 gram in the 2nd in ..4 mm additional. After the tip was repaired in this manner (No real definative measurement ),but it appeared to have about 1 1/2 in of squirt at 50 in down table,which was what the predator was producing . I was very happy with my experiment,with my much cheaper shaft, which was by no means Predator quality. </div></div>