Does anyone know when to use a pad when re-tipping a cue?
Is it recommended for ivory ferrules?
08-28-2002, 09:31 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: fast jack:</font><hr> Does anyone know when to use a pad when re-tipping a cue?
Is it recommended for ivory ferrules? <hr></blockquote>
We use pads for several reasons:
1. It does help prevent splitting, particularly on a grained ferrule such as ivory, antler, etc. This is because the leather tip itself will tend to mash and "spread" after long use. This spreading tip, if glued directly to the ferrule, will try to spread the end of the ferrule as well. The pad is designed to resist stretching in the radial direction, so it isolates the spreading force from the ferrule. I'd also tend to use a pad on old Meucci cues, as they are known for soft ferrules. I believe that they also had a slightly larger tenon than the common 7/16", which means that the ferrule had thinner walls.
2. Some people feel that it softens the hit about a half-grade, allowing them to use a harder tip (to improve wear and dimensional stability) than they would normally like, for reasons of feel or sound.
3. When a tip is changed, if there is a pad under it you can skim off just a little of the pad material along with the old glue, getting to a perfectly flat and fresh surface for bonding the new tip. I can do several tip changes before the pad gets noticeably thin. I prefer starting with a fresh surface, but don't like the idea of skimming off any of someone's ferrule material. Since I use only slow-cure epoxy adhesive, the pad/ferrule glue joint will remain solid for longer than the life of the pad.
4. Some people just like the look of the pad; they feel it adds a classy extra touch, something that everyone's cue won't have. If it makes them feel good, it is good.
There may be more reasons, but these are the ones that pop into my mind.
Here's a pad on a predator ferrule with a talisman pro soft tip:
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