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JJFSTAR
07-08-2011, 02:56 PM
So there is a current thread asking the question “is the 9ball break THAT important?” I have said “yes”. Since some of the break stick tech is changing and some tournament rules are changing allowing or disallowing their use so are some of the ideas about the break itself. Since I don’t feel like my usual mile long post we can start with 9ball.

1. Where do you start from and why?
2. What do you put on it (meaning spin of any kind; horizontal and/or vertical) and why?
3. How hard do you hit it?
4. Do you have several different breaks?
5. Do you have a default break?
6. If your default break doesn’t seem to be working what do you do first?
7. Does any of this change because of the size, cloth or make of the table by default for you?

Any and all types of answers are welcome; one need not use this format in their answer. I also welcome any different game break ideas and input. I will be putting my 9ball break ideas up in the next post. I just wanted to get it started because I may have a “learning moment” specifically from Fran.

BCA Master Instr
07-09-2011, 03:31 PM
1. I have 4 starting positions depending on what the table is giving up.

2. Nothing, just a higher speed stop shot.

3. Varies on tables and cloth and games.

4. Yes.

5. Yes.

6. Depends on whats not working.

7. Absolutely.

Thanks,

Fran Crimi
07-10-2011, 09:40 AM
1. Where do you start from and why?
Assuming I don't know the table, on the spot line, 3/4 of one diamond from the right rail. For some tours like the Joss Tour where you have to break from the box I use the outer right spot.

2. What do you put on it (meaning spin of any kind; horizontal and/or vertical) and why?
None to start, other than slightly below center.

3. How hard do you hit it?
If I'm warmed up, as hard as I can. If not, I take a little off until I'm warmed up.

4. Do you have several different breaks?
Not several. A few.

5. Do you have a default break?
Yes, the one I described above.

6. If your default break doesn’t seem to be working what do you do first?
Switch sides. Same spot on the other side of the table.

7. Does any of this change because of the size, cloth or make of the table by default for you?
Haven't played on anything but Simonis 860 (or similar)for years so I don't have a specific default for different equipment. However, I do adjust a bit for the humidity level in the room. I take a little speed off if it's humid because balls tend to jaw the pockets more. I also may cut the speed a bit if the cloth is brand new. Sliding balls can do strange and unpredictable things, like cause freak scratches.

Sid_Vicious
07-10-2011, 01:41 PM
1. Where do you start from and why?

A. Right side long rail, a ball's width off the rail from the second diamond.

B. Right up the pipe in the middle if I'm getting weight, because they usually stack the second money ball in the second rail, and lots of low english, combined with a smidgen of "off tangent" english to the opposite side of the 2nd money ball, many times lets it find the side pocket on the break.

2. What do you put on it (meaning spin of any kind; horizontal and/or vertical) and why?

Already explained in bullet B. for that position. For Position A. I Take Frans approach.

3. How hard do you hit it?

90% full impact until I get the feel of the break off the tip, then 100%

4. Do you have several different breaks?

Yes, mostly derived from studying the rack, per the instruction from Joe Tucker's book. If it is a solidly pack of racked balls almost all the time,,,no. The breaks remain as described here previously.

I will add though, that there is one situation for a different break spot that I use. There will invariably be what I call a bent table, with one corner at the racking end, which is like a black hole...it draws in balls like space vehicles. I will choose the opposite long rail position from that sink-hole-corner-pocket and use the position as explained in bullet A. of question 1. and then reduce speed to a degree where I can be sure of rolling more ball at that pocket. The nine likes to go that way as well, always has by nature.

5. Do you have a default break?

Just the two I mentioned,,,at least in 9-ball. "The well gets deeper" if you include all pocket billiards breaks.

6. If your default break doesn’t seem to be working what do you do first?

I take speed off first. I have found it very mysterious how the same pool table, from day to day, will produce better breaks at a change to 75% break speed without any changing of the position of the cue ball. I picked that tidbit of knowledge by seeing other players adjusting from day to day, even hour to hour sometimes. IMHO, I personally feel that the flat out 100% hammer breakers who strive for 110%, are asking for trouble. If it doesn't feel like 100% control FIRST and LAST, then gremlins await. 100% control first, then the speed.

7. Does any of this change because of the size, cloth or make of the table by default for you?

Sure it does.

07-11-2011, 12:13 PM
1. Where do you start from and why?
CB on the headstring, on the line from right corner pocket facing(headrail) to 1 ball. Hit a very firm stop shot.

2. What do you put on it (meaning spin of any kind; horizontal and/or vertical) and why?
I nvr spin the CB unless I am using a cut break.

3. How hard do you hit it?
I start off with a very firm stop shot and go up or down in speed, depending on ball action

4. Do you have several different breaks?
about 5-6 (for 9 ball)

5. Do you have a default break?
See post #1

6. If your default break doesn’t seem to be working what do you do first?
Move the CB or hit harder/softer, depending on ball action

7. Does any of this change because of the size, cloth or make of the table by default for you?


Eric

cushioncrawler
07-11-2011, 05:51 PM
I hav never broken in my life. But i do spend time hitting a ball up a 12' table az hard az i kan.

I find that the ball often kums back off the top cush at an angle, ie i got unwanted english, not good. I find i havta aim different and stroke different to get a straight return.

And i find that a smoother stroke, with a pause at the end of the backswing, iz more konsistent, without loozing much speed at all.

And a small bridge, ie small backswing and forwardswing, iz more kontrollable, without loozing much speed at all.

To set a new worlds rekord of some sort, i would uze a super long bridge, and long backswing etc. But here i would stroke differently.
I would drop my elbow on the backswing, and raize it on the forwardswing, to get a longer smoother more horizontal more pistonlike aktion.
Apart from being stronger, this style iz very konsistent too.
mac.

JJFSTAR
07-13-2011, 09:43 AM
Thank you, so very much everyone. And it’s hard to believe everyone used my little format I learned a lot and will be trying a few different breaks and get a feel for the results. Ok here is mine for 9ball:

1. Where do you start from and why? I start from the head string far enough away from the right long rail so my bridge is comfortable; this is because I want to get the most angle on the 1 that I can.
2. What do you put on it (meaning spin of any kind; horizontal and/or vertical) and why? Nothing intentionally.
3. How hard do you hit it? About 75% for starters and gradually go up in power if the CB is still staying in the center.
4. Do you have several different breaks? Just 2 “break formulas” a precision break and a power break.
5. Do you have a default break? Yes the precision break.
6. If your default break doesn’t seem to be working what do you do first? Switch to the power break; that involves bringing the CB to almost the center of the table and using 100%
7. Does any of this change because of the size, cloth or make of the table by default for you? No

Ok lets move on to 8ball here is mine I think this should prove very interesting.

1. Where do you start from and why? I start from the head string far enough away from the right long rail so my bridge is comfortable; this is because I want to hit the 2nd ball as fully as I can.
2. What do you put on it (meaning spin of any kind; horizontal and/or vertical) and why? Draw; I have found that it really does give the best chance of the 8 “firing” out of the rack.
3. How hard do you hit it? As hard as I can with the standard pool shot meaning last look is at OB not CB.
4. Do you have several different breaks? Just 2 “break formulas” a precision break and a power break.
5. Do you have a default break? Yes the precision break.
6. If your default break doesn’t seem to be working what do you do first? Switch to the power break; that involves bringing the CB to almost the center of the table and using 100%. My power break does not involve the “standard” pool shot my eyes are fixed on the CB only after the initial address.
7. Does any of this change because of the size, cloth or make of the table by default for you? No

All input welcome positive or negative about mine BTW

JJFSTAR
07-14-2011, 01:03 AM
Maybe the break is not that important I may be in error.

Scott Lee
07-14-2011, 01:28 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JJFSTAR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe the break is not that important I may be in error. </div></div>

IMO it's equally as important (but not more important) than any other part of the game. An accurate and repeatable stroke is vital, no matter what you're doing.

Scott Lee