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09-20-2002, 01:40 AM
I'm getting ready to take the plunge and buy my first custom cue. Besides looking at cuemakers, woods, stones, points, and inlays, there's the whole "do I wanna go with ivory?" question.

Do I want or need ivory ferrules? Ivory joints? Ivory joint collars? Ivory butt? Where is my money best spent? (That is besides blowing a nice chunk of change just so I knock balls around. . .) How much will any of this ivory affect the hit and playability of a cue?

I want this stick to be something special, something that I'm going to hold onto for a long time and therefore want to get it right the first time, rather than kicking myself two months down the line saying "I really shoulda coughed up the extra however-many-hundreds-of-dollars and gotten an ivory ________".

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Cueless Joey
09-20-2002, 02:14 AM
There is absolutely no "need" for an ivory in a cue.
It is there for cosmetics. Some people like ivory ferrules but I don't see why. They crack, make loud sound, change playability within minutes and expensive.
If you want a cue that is pretty, there is no end to it.
If you want a playing cue, it shouldn't cost more than a thousand.

Rich R.
09-20-2002, 04:43 AM
Anything in a cue, past a good basic sneaky pete, is just decoration. The exception being, ivory ferrules. I believe they do play slightly different, but you will have to try them for yourself to see if you like them. It is not that much different. Please note, I said they play different, not necessarily better.
Ivory ferrules also stay a lot cleaner and are easier to clean when they do get marked with chaulk.
Ivory inlays, joints, joint collars are all a matter of personal taste and budget. An ivory butt would be a luxury.
Rich R.~~~likes a little ivory in a cue.

BLACKHEART
09-20-2002, 08:53 AM
Here's anouther reason to compleate the registration form. If I had your E-MAIL address I'd send you pictures of some of my BLACK HEART CUES.
I use a lot of ivory in my Qs. If you break with your playing Q, then I would keep the ivory in the inlays only. I break with mine & it has all ivory parts from ferrule to butt cap, but your cost to replace an ivory butt cap will be between $100-$200. An ivory joint, likewise is expensive to replace,($75- $150). Ivory ferrules shouldn't make a loud sound, if they are made right & do effect the play somewhat. As far as inlays go, I charge $10 EXTRA for small & medium sized inlays,but I charge DOUBLE for ivory points. Probably the most susceptible part to crack if it's made of ivory, is the butt cap. Just tappin' it on a chair leg as you walk by or banging it down after a missed shot, can do it. As far as the life of ivory ferrule, I put an ivory ferrule on my break Q, just as a test. It's been on there for 9 years with no problems. My son breaks with his ivory ferruled stick & his Q is 17 years old. GOOD LUCK...JER

MikeM
09-20-2002, 09:23 AM
IMO you should concentrate on playability first. Try hitting with ivory ferruled cues first, if you can to see if you like the hit. I have two cues with ivory ferrules and there is a slight difference. I wouldn't personally put ivory in the joint. Those are the only places where ivory would affect the playability as far as I know. After that, whatever you can afford and think looks good, go for it. I started out liking cues with lots of inlays, but now prefer a well made cue with nice sharp points and little ornamentation.

MM..let us know what you decide.

09-20-2002, 10:19 AM
Chief,

Ordered a cue once and it did not work out for me. Lots of cues out there that are already made and ready to go. While custom designing your cue is always fun and exciting, there are a few possible pitfalls, namely: the cue might take along time to build, the "hit" might not be what you like, or it might not turn out cosmetically like you prefer. In my opinion, buy one that is complete and ready to go. You can hopefully play with it prior to purchase and know exactly what you are getting into. As far as cosmetics, well, hey...I always feel that simple is more elegant. You can get some dandies with two shafts anywhere from $400 to $1000.

That was my $2.00 worth (hey, have to account for inflation).

Regards,

Doug

09-20-2002, 11:41 AM
jer, does the ivory not yellow with age?

dan

BLACKHEART
09-20-2002, 01:38 PM
Ivory that has a clear sealer over it should hold its color & not yellow.I have a Q in my rack that I made in 1986 that has an ivory joint & ferrules. The ferrules have darkened very little & the joint is as white as when I made it...JER
P.S. I put a little paste wax on my ivory ferrules to keep them from drying out.

09-20-2002, 03:02 PM
First off, I'd like to thank everyone for their responses. A lot of what's been said confirmed some of what I thought going in, but I wanted to hear it from someone else.

If anything, my main debate now is whether to have ivory inlays, purely for aesthetics. As I've been looking around, Colorado Cues has a pretty impressive website and some nice designs though I have never heard of them before nor do I know anyone who has one of their cues. How do they hit? I don't know. I might take a flyer and buy one of their simpler models and see what's what. Maybe (but that's still stretching it).

To respond to Blakheart, I've read about your cues in the Blue Book. Do you have a website where I can check some of your cues out? My email address is chief.runamok@earthlink.net.

Thanks again to everyone.

The search continues . . .

09-20-2002, 05:20 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: chiefrunningamok:</font><hr> I'm getting ready to take the plunge and buy my first custom cue. Besides looking at cuemakers, woods, stones, points, and inlays, there's the whole "do I wanna go with ivory?" question.

Do I want or need ivory ferrules? Ivory joints? Ivory joint collars? Ivory butt? Where is my money best spent? (That is besides blowing a nice chunk of change just so I knock balls around. . .) How much will any of this ivory affect the hit and playability of a cue?

I want this stick to be something special, something that I'm going to hold onto for a long time and therefore want to get it right the first time, rather than kicking myself two months down the line saying "I really shoulda coughed up the extra however-many-hundreds-of-dollars and gotten an ivory ________".

Any information would be greatly appreciated. <hr></blockquote>

I generally agree with everyone's post here. Except that, in at least one case, I've come across an ivory jointed cue that plays unlike other ivory jointed cues I've played with. If you get a chance, try to hit with a Tascarella cue that has his piloted ivory joint. It's got a very tight fit and just feels different.

09-20-2002, 09:25 PM
Im assuming you know the weight,millimeter of furl,length,shaft taper,hard,med,softtip,etc if so order as many brochure from dealers as you like and find the style you like,and price range that fits you needs.then see if anyone in your area/pool room/billiard supply/tournament has one,they may let you hit afew balls with theres.this may help you narrow it down abit,will this stick hold its value if you resale,is it a one of akind or production model.do you have a friend in the bussiness he may be able to get a discount.i personally play with ivory furl&amp;joint ive not had any problems.i found that when i started looking that there is abig defferance in price from one maker to another, for the price i paid for mine inlays/joint/furl/points/it varys from maker to maker. hope this helps out.take your time and shop around! happy hittin.this time next week ill be at the U.S.OPEN

BLACKHEART
09-20-2002, 11:54 PM
Did you mistype something in your E-MAIL address? I get a "NO MATCH FOUND" when I click on your adress...JER

Fred Agnir
09-21-2002, 05:58 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: chiefrunningamok:</font><hr> I want this stick to be something special, something that I'm going to hold onto for a long time and therefore want to get it right the first time, rather than kicking myself two months down the line saying "I really shoulda coughed up the extra however-many-hundreds-of-dollars and gotten an ivory ________".<hr></blockquote>
Maybe I mistook something. Do you already play with a two-piece jointed cue?

No matter what fancy cue you have made, you're going to want to do it again. My first cue that I had built to my specifications was done just a year or two ago. Since then, I've had the itch to do it over and over. Not because I thought I missed something, but because the thrill of getting a cue specially made, made me want to do it again. And, so, I'm doing it again.

Fred &lt;~~~ whoops, I did it again

09-21-2002, 11:19 PM
As far as what cues I've played with, I've spent most of my time shooting with a Predator, Huebler, and a Joss Custom (not custom made for me though. This one was bought at a pawnshop in Reno after one of the tournaments at the Sands by a friend of mine who then sold it to me).

Of course I want playability in my new cue, more so than the cosmetics. But I'd also like to have a nice looking cue if I'm going to spend between $1000 and $1500 (maybe more, but I doubt I'm going to cross the two-large boundary). The only problem with this is that my budget automatically excludes me from some of the more prestigious cues (Ginacues, Cognoscentis, Southwest, etc etc etc. . .)

In the meantime, the search continues. . .

10-17-2002, 11:14 PM
I ended up picking up a cue at the PH that an acauaintance I had was selling (&amp; he had some beauties!). I ended up picking up an 8-point Gilbert which is gorgeous, has a great hit, and while the colors aren't what I'd pick out, the workmanship is SHARP. I'm happy for now, but still can't stop searching . . .