View Full Version : My table
10-08-2011, 06:02 AM
I am now in day 4 of having my table redone by Glen Hancock, aka Real King Cobra of AZ forums. Today should be the last day of work, and pics will be coming later.
I have seen firsthand what makes Glenn the best in the nation at tuning a table. It has been an unbelievable process to be involved in. He treats the work on the table as if he owns it. In fact many times now he has referred to the table as ours, (mine and his)
Now the back story of my table. I picked up this gold-crown in 1994 from a homeowner here in southern Maryland for 600 dollars. I knew the table was odd because it had GC II rails (Cast aluminum corners) but the bronze feet and barbox of a III. I originally thought it was just those parts swapped out. Glen found that the frame and slates were of of a three vintage, and the rails, side-skirts and ball box is a two. The table is a real mystery to him. Likely it is a table that may was left over from a pool room sale, and parted together.
Now for what is being done, All of the pocket angles were redone, Artemus cushions, and sub rail extensions are being done to take the pockets to a Diamond specification. He used his special tooling to change the bevels on the sub-rails to make the Artemus cushions play at their optimum. The only difference between my table and a Diamond now will be depth of the slate shelf, but Glenn is making up for that with the pocket angles. Simonis 860 HR tourney blue is being used. My table will play exactly like a Diamond.
I cannot wait to play on this table.
10-08-2011, 09:17 AM
Tony, are there different grades of Artemus cushions? I remember awhile ago, I played on a table with Artemus cusions and they were so reactive that I had a lot of trouble trying to control the cb.
10-09-2011, 03:38 AM
Fran there are only the Artemus K66, and Intercontinental K66 profile cushions that I know about. From what I learned from Glen, is that for a cushion to play right there are more factors then just nose height, the angle of the bevel of the sub-rail, also influences how the cushion plays. I bet, the table you were one was one that did not have the right formula for the sub-rails.
This is essentially the same stuff that Diamond has been doing to their tables now to keep them from playing as springy, and banking short. They are now changing that bevel angle in the sub-rail and changing the nose height that works specifically with Artimus cushions.
We finished our table last night and I played 3 games of 8 ball with Glen. This table plays better then it EVER had. It is fast but controllable.
My challenge now is to get my touch back for a table that I don't have to pound a ball on to get it to move on muli-rail position shots.
Fran if you are ever passing through my way, give me a shoutout and come play on this table yourself. It is the first and only tuned table that Glen has done in Maryland.
10-09-2011, 02:49 PM
Thanks for the info, Tony. I don't know if pitch was an issue on the table I played on. Anything is possible.
You did say that the cushions now play faster so I think it may also just be a matter of personal preference.
10-09-2011, 03:03 PM
As far as speed let me put it this way. If you hit a ball at break-speed from head to foot rail on my table the way it was it would travel maybe 4 times.
Now the cueball is going just over 5 times the length of the table.
10-09-2011, 05:49 PM
That's very significant. What's break speed? How many mph? Did you use a speed gun before and after or just your own sense of speed?
10-10-2011, 04:55 AM
Nothing that scientific, just my own sense. Since I played on this table every day since 1994 I am a fairly good judge of it's speed before and after.
I will know for sure once I get a chance to go through my mother drills on this table now. When I get to shoot some 3 speeds, I will really know how fast this table is. I had those speed drills down on the table prior. I bet I will be relearning them again.
Scott Lee can chime in too as to how it was prior.
I asked Glen about this, as I had always thought my table played slow because it was in a basement, and humidity was involved. He showed me how loose my cloth was, his is stretched significantly tighter.
His method of stretching and attaching the cloth to the table is the Nuts.
That makes some of the difference, plus the Artemus cushions.
Basically I have a gold crown that plays like a new Diamond, without the springy rails and short bank issues. The pockets at 4.5 play like a diamond pocket because the 12 degree down angle used for the cushion facings will keep a missed ball bouncing high up in the pocket. That makes up for the lack of a long slate shelf. Diamonds use a different down angle for the pocket facings to force a slightly missed ball towards the back of the pocket to give it a chance to drop with the longer slate shelf.
Prior to that my pockets were all over the place. No two corners were the same before.
10-10-2011, 05:12 AM
Here are a few pictures
10-11-2011, 04:43 AM
Here are a few finished pictures:
10-15-2011, 07:49 PM
That table looks great, and sounds like it's playing great as well! Congrats on getting it done as you wanted it, and getting such a premium mechanic on the job!
(Looks like you settled on 4-1/2" corner pockets-- good choice!)
Enjoy it in good health, and good shooting!
Icon of Sin
10-16-2011, 03:24 AM
That table looks ideal. Perfect really. I would love to have something like that at home.
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