View Full Version : Buying my first cue

10-05-2002, 06:21 AM
Hi Im Brent from Estonia and I need some advice. I have been playing pool for some time now and I figured that It would be real nice to practise with a bit better cue. As there are very little poolstores in Estonia, the choice is limited. Ofcourse there are cheaper ones and more expensive ones like Meucci and Viking. Now id like to hear what makes the huge difference between the prices and what kinda cue would u reccomend to amateur like me. Thnx

Chris Cass
10-05-2002, 07:25 AM
Hi Brent,

Although, you might think of Meucci as being a pricey cue, it's not really. I reccomend you get a cue you can sell later to upgrade, if you plan on playing for awhile.

I shot with a Meucci for 11 yrs. Went to a McDermott for 8 yrs. Then, last and present a South West that's going on 12 yrs. old.

There's tons of fine cue makers out there at present. Many cue makers have fallen to the waste side but, the strong survive. I bought my wife a Lucasi cue. The workmanship and hit of the cue is IMO matched by few for the money.

Cue dealers: Get something you like. Look for flaws or poor work, before you make the final sale of anything you get. The most important thing I always tell people is, buy a cue that feels good to you. Don't buy something because of it's cosmetics alone. Inlays and the fancy might impress but you still have to play with it. Take your time and try these different cues before buying.

Now, if you find a cue that you like the hit. Maybe, you can find one of the same model that runs cheaper through another company. Just something to think about.

Oh, I know NY is tough so bare in mind that Meucci' don't hold up in a fight. LOL



10-05-2002, 07:40 AM
Thnx alot for the advice. I got one more question though. Is there an important difference (and what is it) between a 100$ and a 500$ cue...especially for a guy like me, who hasnt been playing pool for a long time. Thnx

10-05-2002, 07:42 AM
If your looking at just the basic 'good hit' qualities of a pool cue, in my opinion anything beyond a high quality house cue or the basic well made sneaky-pete is all you need to play the game at a high level. The story goes that Efrin Reyes reached world class status with a cue that a thief wouldn't even steal, that is a telling tale. I know the pride of owning a jewel of a cue is something to concider but if your limiting your search for 'hit' alone you need not spend big dollars. I don't know how $150 translates in Estonia but that amount of money will get you a solid hitting pool cue.

10-05-2002, 09:28 AM
This is all the info I can provide about buying your first cue..

<blockquote><font class="small">Quote:</font><hr>
7. ** How should I choose a cue?

In general, it is difficult to tell if you would like a cue stick just by reading about it. Even the terms that different people use to describe these characteristics (hard, soft, harsh, stiff, forgiving, well-balanced,
etc.) are subjective and difficult to quantify. Some of the important things can be quantified (length, weight, balance point, shaft taper, shaft diameter, squirt), but they're not the whole story. And if you are a beginner, or seriously working on your game for the first time, you can
expect your own preferences to change as your game matures.

Robert Byrne says:

Getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to the price. You can get one with good wood, good workmanship, a twine or leather grip, and some decoration for $50 to $90. (This was in 1987 - ed.) If you pay more than $100, you'll be paying for ornamentation and brand name. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that's more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else.

Bob Jewett says:

1. The plainest butt is probably also the most solid. If you want fancy inlay work, consider Baroque antiques, not cues, unless you are collecting rather than playing with them.

2. Beyond being solid and the right weight and length, and perhaps having the style of grip you prefer, there is little the butt does for the cue.

3. The tip is important. Many tips are no good. Tips can be replaced; learn how to do it yourself. The tip has more effect on how the cue plays than the butt.

4. The shaft is the most important part of the cue. Shafts are relatively cheap. Some highly regarded cue makers make unusable shafts.

Here's a quick test to see if the cue is worth looking at further. It tests the amount of "squirt" or deflection on extreme english shots.
Many expensive sticks fail this test. This idea can also be used to compensate for squirt for some sticks, and when it is used for that it is sometimes called "backhand english" since the back (grip) hand is moved over to get side spin.

The "aim-and-pivot" method of squirt compensation:

For each cue stick, there is a particular length of bridge for which you can aim straight at a close object ball and then pivot about your bridge hand and shoot straight through the new line and hit the object ball full. (You can also use this (very old) method for non-full shots too, but a full shot is best for finding the
right bridge length.) For a stick you want to measure, just find the needed bridge length. A hint: if you shoot softly at a ball far away, the cue ball will curve on its way to the object ball, and your measurement will be useless. Do not give the cue ball the time or distance to curve. Shoot firmly. Use as much side spin as you can without miscuing. The shorter the bridge, the more squirt the stick has. ("Close object ball" means about a diamond
away.) The cue ball should sit in place spinning like a top when it hits the object ball full.

For a long pivot length, the bridge is too long to be a comfortable pivot. Arrange to have the pivot over the rail, and use your back hand to hold the stick at the pivot while the bridge hand moves.
An alternative is to slide the bridge hand forward after the pivot to a more comfortable bridge length. Take care to keep the stick aligned in the new direction.

If several cues are available, including house cues, compare them.

Squirt is the most important characteristic of a cue stick after solid construction. Less squirt is usually better, especially if you use something close to "parallel aiming" on spin shots. More squirt means more aiming compensation on any shot with side spin. The one possible advantage of squirt is that if the pivot length is the same length as
the bridge, it can compensate for inaccuracies left-to-right in the final stroke.

10-05-2002, 10:04 AM
Wow actually I thaught noone would answer to a n00bs cryout /webbbs/images/icons/smile.gif but here we go...thnx alot guys u have been very helpful. Oh n thnx Tom 4 the copy paste...could u maybe give me the url where u got the text from. Thnx

10-05-2002, 10:08 AM