PDA

View Full Version : G2 epoxy



10-09-2002, 07:37 AM
Are any of you cuemakers or cue repairmen using G2 epoxy? What is the prefered glue for cue assembaly? In other words what is used by the top cuemakers when building their butts, if any one knows, if it is not a trade secret.

10-09-2002, 09:02 AM
I have used it with exotic woods which it is designed for. That is not to say it would be good for cue assembly.

BLACKHEART
10-09-2002, 10:27 AM
I have used G5 exclusively for joining wooden, plastic or ivory parts together. I use super glue gel for tips, ferrules & joint screws. I use wood glue for glueing in "V" bottom points...JER

10-09-2002, 12:17 PM
Isn't G5 made by west system? It is a five minute glue I think. Do you feel completely safe not using a slower setting glue?

Thierry Layani
10-09-2002, 02:58 PM
Urethane epoxy works also very well. Look at the 3m website they have many types depending on the sort of characteristics you're looking for.

Thierry Layani
www.layanicues.com (http://www.layanicues.com)

10-09-2002, 09:03 PM
I have read that the G5 was not recommended for permeant bonds. You may want to consider trying something else. Even if you have not been having any problems you want to be sure the cues will stay together for a lifetime and not develop any buzzes or other problems that so often happen to cues.
This is from the West website regarding the G5 epoxy.

G/5 Five-Minute Adhesive
An easy to use, 2-part resin/hardener system for quick repairs, tooling and general bonding. May be used in spot applications to hold parts in position while standard epoxy bonds cure. Bonds to wood, fiberglass and metal. Not recommended for long-term bonds subject to high loads or moisture. One-to-one mixture, no pumps are required. Cures in 3-5 minutes.
865-16 16 fl. oz. resin/16 fl. oz. hardener.
865-4 4 fl. oz. resin/4 fl. oz. hardener.

10-11-2002, 09:57 PM
Most of the top epoxy's will perform well. The problem is not the epoxy, but not using it correctly. For any clear epoxy to perform its best you should to add a filler to the epoxy. There are like recipes for this. There is quite a bit to it. I even add it to 5 minute epoxy's and it increases its strength and bond about 500 to 1000% based on tests. If you would like to learn a lot about how to use epoxy check out the web site for the West System WEST SYSTEM Epoxy Even if you don't use their product you will learn a lot about epoxy's. Guys put together ultra-lites with this stuff and trust their lives to it. To make a long story short, you can get very good performance from even the cheapest epoxy's if you know what you are doing. It cost about $6.00 for a can of 403 West filler and it can be used with any epoxy. I was at a cuemakers shop getting a tip and was watching him gluing up a butt. I could not help but tell him he was not using the epoxy correctly. After a little discussion I left. About a week later he called me all excited about some tests he had done. He told me he did some test glue ups his way and a few my way. He said all of his failed under pressure and with mine all the wood broke before the bonds failed. You would recognize his name he is a well respected cuemaker. My background by the way is in boat building. Although I never got to interested in the family company, I could not help learning a few things. Good luck

11-04-2002, 09:09 AM
The concept of adding fillers is 100% correct, it increases the strength of the epoxy. I would say for cue assembly though, no two part epoxy that calls for equal parts should ever be used for obvious reasons. Recipe epoxy's such as System Three, West System, or one of a number of industrial epoxies on the market that have proper mix formulas is all that should be used, especially when gluing wood.