Fred Agnir

11-14-2002, 08:03 AM

I know it's difficult to describe various squirt compensation techniques, so I'm attempting to show it on the Wei Table:

Consider the following dead straight shot. The goal is to find out how much squirt you have to compensate on firm shot with english. I say "firm" because we're talking about squirt, we want to eliminate or reduce enough to neglect spin throw and swerve. The shot diagrammed is relatively short.

START(

%AN7O6%EL3_0%PQ1R1%QE0C3%RG9C5%SC3B7%WF2D6%XX6Z5%Y D8D4%Z]6^9

%[H8D4%\T7W0%]D5D8%^Y2Z4%eC1a5

)END

There is the dead straight line, and then two other aim points, A and B. Comparing the two, if aiming to "A" is what is necessary to pocket the one-ball *and* leave the cueball spinning dead in its tracks, then your amount of squirt can be measured by the "pivot point." The pivot point is the distance between the cueball surface and the point where the straight in line (gray on my table) crosses the "A" line (red in my case).

If your cueball aim point (using the same amount of english) however has to be farther away from the pocket, say on line "B", then your pivot point is shorter shown by the intersection of line B and the straight in line, and your cue stick has more squirt.

For the Aim-and-Pivot method, you'd line up the shot dead straight, choose an arbitrary pivot point (say 10"), and pivot the stick about that pivot point to the english (right-hand in this case). Fire away. It doesn't matter for the Aim-and-Pivot method how much english you use. This is an important distinction. If the cueball slides to the right after contact the object ball, then you have over-compensated for squirt. Try a longer pivot point. If the cueball slides to the left, you need to compensate for more squirt. Try a shorter pivot point. Do this until you find a pivot length that keeps the cueball sitting and spinning in place.

In it all, it's important if you use the Aim-and-Pivot is that this pivot point does not mean "bridge point." A Predator, for example (line C), can have a pivot point of over 30". That is, very low squirt characteristics. You certainly wouldn't bridge back there, but you can pivot about that point to get the new line of aim. Line B represents a very short pivot point, maybe around 3". Simply pivot at 3", then slide your bridge hand back to a normal comfortable length.

Fred

Consider the following dead straight shot. The goal is to find out how much squirt you have to compensate on firm shot with english. I say "firm" because we're talking about squirt, we want to eliminate or reduce enough to neglect spin throw and swerve. The shot diagrammed is relatively short.

START(

%AN7O6%EL3_0%PQ1R1%QE0C3%RG9C5%SC3B7%WF2D6%XX6Z5%Y D8D4%Z]6^9

%[H8D4%\T7W0%]D5D8%^Y2Z4%eC1a5

)END

There is the dead straight line, and then two other aim points, A and B. Comparing the two, if aiming to "A" is what is necessary to pocket the one-ball *and* leave the cueball spinning dead in its tracks, then your amount of squirt can be measured by the "pivot point." The pivot point is the distance between the cueball surface and the point where the straight in line (gray on my table) crosses the "A" line (red in my case).

If your cueball aim point (using the same amount of english) however has to be farther away from the pocket, say on line "B", then your pivot point is shorter shown by the intersection of line B and the straight in line, and your cue stick has more squirt.

For the Aim-and-Pivot method, you'd line up the shot dead straight, choose an arbitrary pivot point (say 10"), and pivot the stick about that pivot point to the english (right-hand in this case). Fire away. It doesn't matter for the Aim-and-Pivot method how much english you use. This is an important distinction. If the cueball slides to the right after contact the object ball, then you have over-compensated for squirt. Try a longer pivot point. If the cueball slides to the left, you need to compensate for more squirt. Try a shorter pivot point. Do this until you find a pivot length that keeps the cueball sitting and spinning in place.

In it all, it's important if you use the Aim-and-Pivot is that this pivot point does not mean "bridge point." A Predator, for example (line C), can have a pivot point of over 30". That is, very low squirt characteristics. You certainly wouldn't bridge back there, but you can pivot about that point to get the new line of aim. Line B represents a very short pivot point, maybe around 3". Simply pivot at 3", then slide your bridge hand back to a normal comfortable length.

Fred