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View Full Version : Kick-First One Pocket Break



Anonamus
02-19-2003, 02:49 PM
First, I want to apologize for asking this question. I know it's been covered before but I couldn't find it in the archives.

What is the best way to get out of the kick-first break if it is executed properly and the CB sticks to the rack?

Grady Matthews says it's a poor break and he can beat anyone that uses it (or something along those lines), but he doesn't mention how to get out of it. Right now I play it one of two ways. First, I may leave the CB on the rack, take the foul and let the breaker get out of his own break. Second possibility is to kick off my side rail towards the breaker's pocket and try to either clear or make any ball that may be in front of his pocket or take the foul and leave the CB as close to his pocket as possible forcing him to shoot a ball away from his side.

I've attached a diagram to illustrate the shot and a possible solution:

START(
%AN7O5%BM5S8%CJ2O2%DL7N1%EM7P1%FK6P1%GK6N8%HM7N8%I L7O4%JK6M5
%KH2S1%LI7N2%MJ5V4%NE0Y2%OI7L5%PN0M5%UU1D4%Vg7Y9%W J5D4%XM5M1
%YE6W0%ZJ0C4%]O2L1%^T2C4%eC2`5
)END

Does anyone have a better solution to this break?

If the CB does not stick to the rack and comes out a little you can shoot a ball towards your pocket and stick the CB in the rack, like so;

START(
%AN7O5%BM0R3%CJ0P3%DL7M8%EM7P1%FK5P7%GK6N8%HM7N8%I L7O4%JK1K9
%KG1R6%LJ0N2%MK5T9%NE2X9%OI0K2%PN2L6%WD1I6%XJ6K8%Y K3M3%ZK4L4
%]L8L4%^M4L4
)END

Again, any help from you one pocket champs out there would be greatly appreciated.

NH_Steve
02-19-2003, 03:21 PM
Get used to simply kicking -- preferably under/behind the ball closest to their pocket. Just don't pocket scratch, but who cares if you don't get a ball and a rail. It might cost you one ball, but rarely does that rail-first break open much on the breaker's side, so you are not bad off generally.

Remember, on many conventional breaks, you'd be tickled to just give the breaker a ball & be out of the break. Practice that kick safety a bit, and you may find the breaker quickly tires of the rail first break & goes back to the conventional break -- especially if they are occassionally failing to hit a rail themselves on the break, or they are occassionally selling out a shot 'cuz their cue penetrates the stack too much anyway.

However, as long as they have you buffaloed by breaking that way, they'll probably continue!

NH_Steve
02-19-2003, 04:56 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote NH_Steve:</font><hr> Get used to simply kicking -- preferably under/behind the ball closest to their pocket. Just don't pocket scratch, but who cares if you don't get a ball and a rail. It might cost you one ball, but rarely does that rail-first break open much on the breaker's side, so you are not bad off generally.

Remember, on many conventional breaks, you'd be tickled to just give the breaker a ball &amp; be out of the break. Practice that kick safety a bit, and you may find the breaker quickly tires of the rail first break &amp; goes back to the conventional break -- especially if they are occassionally failing to hit a rail themselves on the break, or they are occassionally selling out a shot 'cuz their cue penetrates the stack too much anyway.

However, as long as they have you buffaloed by breaking that way, they'll probably continue! <hr /></blockquote>I meant to add that from the usual cue location on the side of the stack, kicking towards a ball near your opponent's pocket, that angle lends itself nicely to using the 'angle in, angle out' or 'mirror' kicking system. On most tables, just hold your stick over the table, directly over the cue ball, taking note where the cue stick (black arrow on the wei) crosses the two opposite side rails until point 'A' is exactly half of point 'B'. The low to medium angle and soft hit required for this shot doesn't need much adjustment, right? The main thing is making sure you are stroking the top center of the cue ball (the top -- because that's all you can usually hit /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif ; the center -- 'cuz you have better control &amp; more true to the geometry).

START(
%AN7O5%BM5S8%CJ2O2%DL7N1%EM7P1%FK6P1%GK6N8%HM7N8%I L7O4%JK6M5
%KH2S1%LI7N2%MJ5V4%NE0Y2%OI7L5%PM7M3%QI4@6%RQ3[5%UD1Y0%VD7X5
%WJ8D4%XM5M1%YE1W7%ZJ0C5%]J2A3%^R5]7%eB5`5%_G4Z2%`F4[2%aE5Y9
)END

WEI shortcut (http://endeavor.med.nyu.edu/~wei/pool/pooltable2.html)

JMHO

Popcorn
02-19-2003, 05:46 PM
In your diagram, that is an exceptionally good break. Most of the time there is nothing really to worry you and many times you are shooting a ball straight into your pocket. It is not a good break and I feel the same as Grady. I would not mind at all playing someone that choose to break like that. I may take a foul and leave him long, see what he does. You are not really in that much trouble. The reason I would kick to the bottom rail rather then just roll the cue ball up there is because it is easier then trying to control the speed just rolling it to a spot on the table. You may not even need to take a foul, you may be able to jack up a little and catch a piece of the ball next to the cue ball and slightly masse the cueball back to your side of the table around the same place as in my illustration. I am sure there are more things that may work, that is the fun of one pocket.
START(
%AN7O5%BM5S8%CJ2O2%DL7N1%EM7P1%FK6P1%GK6N8%HM7N8%I L7O4%JK6M5
%KH2S1%LI7N2%MJ5V4%NE0Y2%OI7L5%Pm3C7%Uh0Z6%Vg7Y9%W s5F0%XM5M1
%Yn9D5%Zs6E7%]T3C1%^T2C4%eC2`5
)END