View Full Version : Diamond Bar Boxes
The Iowa BCA State Tournament is coming up this week and I have heard that they will be using Diamond Bar Tables. I have not seen these tables yet, and was wondering how they play. How do the pockets play and do they use red circle cue balls, etc. Any information will be helpful in preparing me for this tournament, since I won't be able to play on them until the day of the tournament.
03-18-2002, 10:08 AM
If you are used to playing on high quality nine footers your going to love it. If you are used to Valley bar boxes you need to make a few adjustments:don't get careless on cuts to the corners. They will swell-up if poorly hit( you get what you deserve). If you have a ball deep in the jaws do yourself a favor and go look at it very closely as the tables have deep shelves(this is not a Valley slop/box). Praise the pool gods you can actually shot soft. The tables are great. These tables are tough to over power with your break as the red dot is the same weight, if not a gram less in weight. Find a good solid break that makes a ball and let'ter buck Powder River Sorry the cowboy never dies. Your in for a treat buddy.
The Diamond bar boxes are designed to play just like the 9 footers with slightly bigger pockets than the pro cut. They are being produced to APA specs and will be used in May in Las Vegas as well as in Valley Forge next year. If you can find a 9 footer in the area play on it some.
They can use any cue ball that is available so you will have to ask someone which ball will be used.
Ken in CT
03-18-2002, 12:45 PM
I've been told the league players won't like much of that action at all. I have however played on them before and can say this. If you play them with finesse you'll make most of the table your friend. There fast as lightning and the pocket facings will spit out the ball if you over power the shot. I like them myself. The bobble of the ball in the facings won't let it drop like a Valley. The shelf is too deep for that to happen.
I've been tossing and turning over this event. I am paid in by the ph owner. I wont be able to play team and only can play in the Master division singles. The tourney doesn't pay that much VS the Jackpot Junction tourney in MN. this same weekend. The entry fee is $30.00 per event and $6500.00 added, 9 ball, 8 ball too. I'm so confused.......
C.C.~~6 1/2hr.drive VS 2 1/2 less money??????
03-18-2002, 12:57 PM
Do them both. Doesn't the Iowa singles get over before Friday night? If it does get a driver and road trip it Some help, huh?
03-19-2002, 05:57 AM
WOW, Thanks Cheesemouse, never thought that the Masters singles would end in one day. I'll look into it.
Great to have friends,
C.C.~~Cheese came through.....
Where are you from Chris? If you do well in the Singles tournament, I don't think you will be done Friday night. The information that I got about the tournament said that there would not be any matches played after midnight and that the singles will resume Saturday morning at 8, with the team competition starting at 11. I am playing in the open singles and the Masters team event, so I will be there Thursday at noon for singles. I am looking forward to playing on the Diamond tables, I just hope that they use red circle cue balls.
Thanks for the info,
Cris ?? Id take the money. Besides the Jackpot tourny is the best of them all. see you there Jon from mn
03-22-2002, 05:25 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: cheesemouse:</font><hr>as the tables have deep shelves<hr></blockquote>What is the regulation depth or range of depths for the shelf? Is it measured from the nose of the rail, or the back of the pocket? Is there a regulation for how deep the pockets should be also?
03-22-2002, 06:29 PM
I thought I had that spec info bookmarked but I can't find it, someone will know and post an answer. Just off the top of my head I think the shelf is measured from the line across from nose point to nose point and then back to the fall off of the slate into the pocket, that distance is the shelf. Don't take that to the bank though.
03-25-2002, 04:57 AM
Tom, I went a tournament in Los Angles that had a great influence on me entering the billiard table market.
An object ball could set so deep in the corner pocket that a cue ball frozen on the rail while the object ball was as deep as it could be and frozen to the nearest facing couldn't even be contacted without hitting the other facing first. Seems as though there was no specification on shelf depth or radius of slate. There are several ways to describe slate depth, but Diamond preferes to look at the placement of the cue ball and object ball in such a position where the least amount of ball is visible and giving a percentage of the ball visible by sighting down the rail and actually seeing how much ball can be seen.
With the object ball touching the nearest facing in the corner pocket and as deep as possible without falling in, sighting down the rail from the side pocket reveals approx 40 percent ot the ball visible. Set it up. This gives you a very small amount of ball that can actually be contacted.
Also look where the cue ball will be directed while it is frozen on the ajacent rail an hits as much ball as possible.
03-25-2002, 03:28 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote: TomBrooklyn:</font><hr> <blockquote><font class="small">Quote: cheesemouse:</font><hr>as the tables have deep shelves<hr></blockquote>What is the regulation depth or range of depths for the shelf? Is it measured from the nose of the rail, or the back of the pocket? Is there a regulation for how deep the pockets should be also? <hr></blockquote>
Below are abridged versions lifted from the respective websites. I converted all metric dimensions on the WPA site and in some cases changed The WPA conversion to one that jived with the given metric.
According to Greg's description (40% of ball showing, etc.) the Diamond pocket shelf length is around 1 3/4" to 1 7/8".
POCKET OPENINGS & MEASUREMENTS (Cloth covered rails):
Corner Pocket: Mouth Between 4 7/8" minimum to 5 1/8" maximum
Side Pocket: Mouth Between 5 3/8" minimum to 5 5/8" maximum
Vertical Pocket Angle: 12o minimum to 15o maximum.
The angle at the corner pocket entrance on each side of the pocket is 142o (±1o).
The angle at the side pocket entrance on each side of the pocket is 103o (± 2o).
Shelf: The shelf is measured from the center of the imaginary line that goes from one side of the mouth to the other where the nose of the cushion changes direction to the center of the vertical cut of the slate pocket radius.
Corner Pocket Shelf: 1 5/8" minimum to 1 7/8" maximum
Side Pocket Shelf: 0" minimum to 3/8" maximum
Drop Point Slate Radius: The pocket radius measured from the vertical cut of the slate to the playing surface.
Drop Point Slate Radius 1/8" radius min. to 1/4" radius max.
9. Pocket Openings and Measurements
Corner Pocket Mouth: between 4 1/2 [11.43 cm]and 4 5/8 inches [11.75 cm]
Side Pocket Mouth: between 5 [12.7 cm] and 5 1/8 inches [13.02 cm]
*The mouth of the side pocket is traditionally 1/2 inch [1.27 cm] wider than the mouth of the corner pocket.
Vertical Pocket Angle (Back Draft): 12 degrees minimum to 15 degrees maximum.
Horizontal Pocket Cut Angle: The angle must be the same on both sides of a pocket entrance.
The cut angles of the rubber cushion and its wood backing (rail liner) for both sides of the corner pocket entrance must be 142 degrees (+1).
The cut angles of the rubber cushion and its wood backing (rail liner) for both sides of the side pocket entrance must be 104 degrees (+1).
Shelf: The shelf is measured from the center of the imaginary line that goes from one side of the mouth to the other - where the nose of the cushion changes direction - to the vertical cut of the slate pocket cut. Shelf includes bevel.
Corner Pocket Shelf: between 1 5/8 [4.13 cm] and 2 1/2 inches [6.35 cm]
Side Pocket Shelf: between 0 and 3/8 inches [.9525 cm]
greg, i just wanted to say that you make a real contribution to this board, keep it up. someone told me that your light for a 9' table has 3 sets of tubes. izzat true?
i almost regret ripping off your light design for my home made (almost). yours is much prettier (mine much cheaper).
04-02-2002, 01:48 AM
houstondan, Yes I prefer 3 sets of tubes on my 9 ft. lights. Sorry I was so long in responding. I didn't see the post. I'm getting better at the typing and really like reading the posts. There's definitely no problem anyone using my light design, infact it's a complement. Best of luck and if you come up with any ideas to improve any aspects of pool I'd be glad to hear them. thanks, Greg/Diamond
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