View Full Version : Spiderman's Da' Tip Man!!!

03-15-2003, 10:01 AM
I had Spidey install a tip recently, a jump tip from Lucasi's jumper line, and it turned out to be quite a challenge. First it was only .020 over the 14mm ferrule it was going on and that's not much when you are trying to keep overhang all the way around during the glue process. Second it's a dam hard composite material to work down and shape(else I'd have tried to do it myself.) End result, as are all of Spiderman's installs was perfection, even though he even stated it was the hardest tip job he's done yet! I know there is guidlines deterring advertising here, but if you are in the DFW area and have been going to "that other guy" down 'round Whiterock Lake(no names)...you will get absolute precision and reliability with Spidey's methodology. I'm absolutely certain of what I say, AND there's never been any tips fly off or been poorly adhered from SM's jobs, whereas there have been with "that other guy"...sid

03-16-2003, 06:11 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Sid_Vicious:</font><hr>...it was the hardest tip job he's done yet! <hr /></blockquote>Is that hardest as in the hardness of the tip, the difficulty of the job, or both? Is it generally much more difficult to install very hard tips?

I have several very hard tips designed for breaking and jumping that I've agreed to test and report on for a couple of different manufacturers. The one I'm having put on my BJ cue first at the same time I'm having a cracked ferrule replaced is phenolic. The counterman, who is not the repairman, expressed some concern about getting it to stay on when I presented it to him. He said they use Tweetens gel glue and they were going to have to scuff the back of the tip well.

03-16-2003, 10:35 AM
Hardest in terms of difficulty, but I'll bet hardest as in HARD also. Spiderman also did a phenolic for me a while back, and his concerns were the same as far as the adhering. I suggest you get Spiderman in a personal message for a lengthy replay on his tip installs in both cases, the phenolic and the tip from Lucasi. I do know that he uses epoxy instead of the super gel and it sits overnight in cure. Beyond that, he has is own scientific secrets(which he's generous to share.) sid

03-16-2003, 10:43 AM

Now this is a bandwagon that I just have to jump on. Of course, I don't have a lot of experience with a lot of different tip installers, but I do believe and agree that the job Spiderman does can't be beat.

SPetty~~~I just love it when Spidey pulls out his eye loop (loupe?) to show me his handiwork on my tips!

03-16-2003, 10:49 AM
Yea well, I didn't say he wasn't a show off too! ;-)) sid

03-16-2003, 11:25 AM
Very hard tips can be difficult because the adhesive doesn't penetrate.

By the way, any tip person NOT thouroughly scuffing the back of a new tip should be sent packing. IMHO.


03-16-2003, 12:02 PM
I was making a reply very similar when my puter locked up. Like you said the back of the tip has to be sanded flat. In the case of a phenolic like substance (not being porous) a rough surface is ideal. I'd sand it with 80 grit. Something else I do on hard tips is drill three little dimples in the back side for adhesion against lateral force. Like Spidey I always use epoxy as it fills in any voids. It takes longer to harden or set up but I've "never" had a tip come off.

~~~ rod has to get a loupe to be an official tip inspector, especially if it excites the girls! /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

03-16-2003, 12:42 PM
I tried two loops (loupes)once, one for each eye. I don't know if it excited the girls though 'cuz I couldn't see 'em... /ccboard/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ccboard/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Rod:</font><hr>
~~~ rod has to get a loupe to be an official tip inspector, especially if it excites the girls! /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif <hr /></blockquote>

#### leonard
03-16-2003, 12:53 PM
Rod I always scored an X in the tip with the razor knife. In the 40 years I am using the same cue I have never had a tip come off the cue till I remove it.####

03-16-2003, 03:51 PM
Hey, Sorry for the ignorant question here but I thought that jump tips were more on the soft side and break tips were more on the hard side. Is this not right? That is why I was told you should not get a jump/break combination cue. I don't own a jumper yet and not very good at them. but sometime soon. I do have a pred BK and love It.


03-17-2003, 11:21 AM
The single most important feature of a jump cue is light weight, but a hard tip also seems to help. Before the 40-inch rule was adopted, shaft-only jumps over a full ball from 2-1/2 inches away were common, even with soft tips like the Elk Master. I have a "Frog" jumper that I bought from Sid Vicious for $25 because it didn't work for him. I like it fine, so I guess there's a little personal technique/preference tied up in there also. Not sure exactly what tip it came with, but it is a hard one.


03-17-2003, 11:38 AM
Thanks for the reply spiderman. I'll remember that.


03-17-2003, 12:25 PM
Break tips are harder, and many these days are made with a synthetic blend which effectively make then incredibly hard, I'd guess approaching the CB hardness to some level. As Spiderman said, my experience with the Frog was dissappointing and I also had hell making the notorious Stealth work until I finally bit the dust and put 20 bucks into Lucasi's JC tip. Before I did that, nothing worked. The factory tip was miserable for my jumps, and I eventually went through a phenolic install and it was an improvement alright but still could not come even close to the Lusasi JC's abilities. That Lucasi tip, after suffering the cost plus the install fee, put the Stealth back in action. It is definitely a synthetic blend, burnishes to a deep, dark and HARD condition...sid

Fred Agnir
03-17-2003, 01:37 PM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote #### leonard:</font><hr> Rod I always scored an X in the tip with the razor knife. In the 40 years I am using the same cue I have never had a tip come off the cue till I remove it.#### <hr /></blockquote>From a theoretical standpoint, if superglue (CA) is used, you have to sand the entire backing of the tip, as the tannins/acidity adversely affects the superglue's ability to work.

So, either the theory has holes, or you're not using superglue. Epoxy or hotmelt, maybe?