View Full Version : Is Ding Resistance A Function Of Shaft Quality?
03-31-2003, 05:19 PM
Are high quality cue shafts with tighter growth ring spacing more ding resistant than lesser grades?
The grading system used by Dominiak (http://www.dominiak.com/cuestock/grade.htm) is Custom, A+, A, B+, and B.
Custom: 10-20 growth rings per inch. Very few cuemakers use this wood.
A+: 8-10. Most custom and high end production cuemakers use this wood.
A: 5-10. Low end custom and production cues typical
B+: 5-10. Good house cues
03-31-2003, 06:32 PM
"Are high quality cue shafts with tighter growth ring spacing more ding resistant than lesser grades?"
The answer is yes and no. While it's true that higher growth ring concentration makes a denser shaft. Color and region of growth (climate)can also make a difference.
That grading system is probably pretty accurate. The problem is availability. Good tight, clear wood is not all that available. Guys that are producing cues comercially have to save thier better wood for thier high end cues. If they tried to use the same grade accross the board, they wouldn't deliver many cues. The wood simply is not there consistantly enough. Also it's where they make thier money. The lower end stuff just pays rent. You save the best for the best.
Personaly I try not to go below 12 growth rings. But I hand select almost all of my wood in boards. Even at that I feel real lucky if 25% is high grade. Using the grading system above it will break down something like this B+ - A, 30% to 60% A+ about 20% Lowerpart of the custom about 15% and then some pretty good stuff. Maybe 20% not even usable. But there are no guarentees. I've had wood that 50% I couldn't use /ccboard/images/graemlins/mad.gif and the other 50% was marginal. Then I've gotten really lucky with some others. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I hope that answers your question. Regards, John G
03-31-2003, 07:56 PM
I have shafts that are very old and have been played with thousands on hours. What seems to happen is they become sort of case hardened, I would guess from hand oils and chalk and dirt that finds it's way into the wood. That is the reason I don't believe in deep cleaning my shafts. I don't care how they look as long as they are smooth. I also use power which I think may hardens the wood over time. I never like a new shaft as much as I do after it has been played with for a period of time. I read a century ago or more there were tools made with wooden threads, vices and so on. They used to lubricate the wooden threads with bees wax and talc to harden the threads. If you see one of those old vices or wood clamps today, you would think the threads are iron the wood has become so hard.
04-16-2003, 02:46 PM
Below are more details of how Dominiak grains their shaft wood.
What is sugar?
Custom: No sugar. No grain run-off.
A+: No or a tiny amount of sugar. No grain run-off.
A: Small amount of sugar may show. Slight grain run-off allowed at joint end.
B+: Small amounts of sugar may be present. Slight grain run-off allowed, amay have some grain "wiggle"
B: Larger amounts of sugar may show. Some grain run-off allowed. Grain may "wiggle."
Custom through A: White
B+: May be more tan or red colored.
B: Some tan or red.
It is a darker brown discoloration, usually small but can be annoying. It comes from the sugar in the sap. I have one in one of my shafts but towards the joint. I still see it at times in my peripheral vision.
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